When to change brake pads and is there a way to reduce squeal?
 

I'm at like 17k miles. Should the front pads be changed at 15k and the rears at 30k?

Also... is there like a special cream/lubricant to fix the brake squeal? I know performance cars are going to squeal, but my ///Ms did not squeal this bad.

I heard you need to change the rotors with the pads due to "softer materials" being used for the performance rotors. Is this garbage?

I would just wait until the light on the dash comes on. I would also probably just take the car to a Independent Euro Repair shop vs the dealer and have them do it. The dealers charge a small fortune for brake pads which actually is a pretty easy job although the pads for decent ones are kinda expensive.

Would you replace with OEM pads?

What are your thoughts on "you need to replace rotors at same time as pads"?

What are your thoughts on squeal reduction?

I am at around 13k miles and am experiencing some vibration upon braking ; this started happening after a track day . I called my MB tech and he informed me that rotors have to be changed at the same time as pads; I was quoted that the cost to replace the front set was going to be around 3k . I had my indie shop order oem pads and rotors and am getting them installed today ; this saved me about $600 over going to MB to get it done.

As far as the squealing I was told this was normal and that there was nothing MB could do about it .

Any reason not to try some anti squeal compound on the backside of the pads?

this has always been helpful to me on my previous cars and bikes.

One should change pads when they are worn down to just before sensor... (can re-use sensor and save money)

Brake Pad lubricant is used on back of pads to reduce squealing; also on any pins etc... NOT to be slopped on but just small thin coat...
Too much can be bad if it gets on rotor or pad faces.

Brake Squeal is not acceptable as it means something is vibrating at a high frequency wich means probably less braking forces

Change rotors when warped, (not flat) too thin, or overheated and blued,

Is that $3k in parts or $3k in parts + labor? How much total did you pay by going to indie shop?

The sensors are cheap and I would change them anyway because the insulation can get frayed over time and one not signaling because of a bad wire is way more expensive. Also, rotors should be replaced if they're warped or worn past the minimum thickness, but not as a matter of course with every pad change. I've gotten 50,000+ miles from front rotors on many AMGs, including a heavy S65. It obviously depends on your driving style (and I'm not a conservative driver by any means, but I don't track my cars). Once the dealer tried to tell me my C63 needed rotors at 20,000 miles so I asked the SA what they miked at and to leave the old rotors in the trunk. He called back and said he was "shocked" to discover the tech had warped one working on the pads and they were giving me new rotors on the house.

At what milage do you change front pads versus rear pads? I'm thinking... front pads every 20k miles and rear pads every 40k?

Like tires, brake pads and rotors are replaced based on wear, not mileage. Driving conditions and driving habits can drastically change the life and mileage someone gets from their brakes (just like tires).

I was just told that rear brake pads go *earlier* than front brake pads for these cars. Physics, who would have thunk it?!

When you say you aren't a conservative driver, do you ever get out of your car and you hear your brake rotors "cracking" from being so hot after rigorous driving? :)

Brake-based driver assistance mechanisms also throw everything out of wack in terms of typical wear schedules.

I would hope most people are not having to use those mechanisms on a regular basis. Aren’t they supposed to intervene only in cases of danger?

I believe either (or both) stability and traction controls utilize the brakes.

I thought traction control just stopped power in most everyday cases.

I thought you were talking about the pre collision detection systems, but if traction control engages the brake, you could be very right.

Same thing was true for my Jeep Wrangler Rubicon. Watch your ESP/traction control light on the dash. Every time that icon lights up when you're on the throttle, the rear brakes are being engaged.

I was shocked to find that on my jeep the rear pads and rotors went first. Then after thinking about it a bit I could see how that was the case. I drive the jeep off road in the desert not too far from San Diego. Spinning the tires on pavement isn't much of a worry for that vehicle, but in the sand it will engage the ESP to stop one wheel or the other from spinning. Even with the ESP turned off as much as it will let you, it still engages to some degree and you can hardly do a decent donut. But, I must say, it does do a good job of helping keep you from getting stuck in 2WD.

Driving around in Comfort or Sport mode will result in the TC lights coming on more often and as a result, increased rear brake wear - or so I suspect.

https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mbw...190a76e17c.png
rear. they wear at a really weird angle.
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mbw...93c8395d89.png
front. i would have thought these had some life left on them but not sure how much

what do you guys think? indie shop by me said $1k for front + rear pads + labor. 17.5k miles needing pads isn't terrible i guess. i was told my rotors are fine.

That front pad needs to be replaced today. I can't quite tell what's going on with the rear thickness, but it looks like it's got a lot more meat on the bone.

Looks like your front pads are just about to the wear sensor. Your brake service light will probably be coming on very soon.

[QUOTE=MuffinFlavored;779
indie shop by me said $1k for front + rear pads + labor.[/QUOTE]

The OEM front pads are about $420 and the wear sensors are $14. So they're charging you about $560 in labor, just to change the front pads?

It is $1k for front pads + rear pads + labor. I don't get how my rear pads could have meat on them if rear are supposed to go first and my front are toast?

also... nobody makes better brake pads for daily driving than the OEM pads? I am surprised nobody is touting or recommending an aftermarket option. I guess "good enough" makes sense here?

IMO, no one makes a better brake pad (for all around daily use) than the OEM pads that came with your car.

I just recently changed my pads, both fronts and rears, and the rears did have more wear than the fronts. Didn't bother to change the rotors because they were not warped. Stops fine ...and I do drive aggressively from time to time.

If I was closer, I would change it for free for you. Super easy!