JDMAP1

Hello guys!! So my car only have 55K miles. Brand new tires and a fresh alignment. I can feel slight vibration at around 50-70mph and can feel/hear stuff moving around when going over a small bump. I am lowered on Ghost Motorsport coilovers and those are solid tight. Any of y'all have had this issue?

My old E55 had a common issue with lower tie rod, is this the case for this car too?

6speeddave

Interesting input. My front ghost coilover kit is also solid tight (physically can't adjust collar any higher) and I've had a driver side front knock over bumps too at small speeds. I was thinking its possible its the ghost coilover collar moving gainst the OEM strut base but not sure. I have a brand new OEM strut on the driver side as well so its not that. I also may have somewhat of a vibration above 85. My alignment and tires are fine.

I may have my tech look over all of the front suspension components tomorrow and see if anything is loose or worn down. Ive replaced just about everything on the entire strut assembly, brake rotors, hub, etc. but haven't inspected the sway bar, ball joints, or control arms. Will update this.

JDMAP1

From another thread, one guy found that it was a lose sway bar and another was a bad strut. Since you have brand new strut on the driver side (same side I've noticed the clanking on mine) I'd assume there are only two things left, either w lose away bar or control arms/bushings are needed

my old e55 had a bad lower control arm. It was making a hideous squeaky noise while going slow over bumps (so embarrassing in parking lot). Once I replaced that as it is very common in Texas heat as it would break down the rubber bushing, it was golden again.

6speeddave

Updating this. Replaced all 4 sway bar end links and the car is about 99.99% perfect. No more loud clunking over bumps, and no more (noticeable) vibrations on the highway. Hope this helps. Car is a 12 CLS63 with 74k.

JDMAP1

Thanks! What did you do or how did you find the problem that it was the end links?

6speeddave

Reading online various threads on here and on the W204/W212 side of things since those cars are nearly identical. And the parts were like $20 a corner from FCP euro with lifetime warranty. My tech charged me $105 to put all 4 in. One of the cheapest repairs I've done that has given the most impact on how the car drives.

JDMAP1

Can you confirm if these are the two correct end links? TIA!

6speeddave

Yes those are them

6speeddave

Just updating this. It seems I am still seeing vibrations above 70. I will take the car back next week for further diagnosis with my guy. Maybe a sway bar end link came loose, but engine & trans mounts and tie rod ends are next on my list so I may knock those out and see if it helps.

Terence E ENoh

Guys,
I am experiencing the same thing. First it started with what I believe are warped rotors ( my mechanic said my pads are good) and the vibrations happened ONLY when I brake. I kept postponing doing my rotors but now I can feel a slight vibration at like 70mph without applying the brakes (but violent vibrations when I do apply the brakes). I will definitely do my rotors (like really soon) and update you guys. In the meantime, I am watching you guys to see what you did to fix yours. I will keep you guys updated with my progress aswell.

6speeddave

Updating this. New engine and transmission mounts are in. Still seeing vibrations from 70-85. It also comes and goes on different types of pavement. Like sometimes it'll vibrate badly and 2 miles later down the same highway it'll be glass smooth. Debating replacing all control arms, ball joints, and tie rods (inner and outer) but also looking for any other input on this.

JDMAP1

Oh man, this is starting to be a headache and $ for you. Thank you so much for the updates. I held off swapping out the sway bar links until further notice from you. While I was under the car, all links and joints looks to be in great shapes. My car too only vibrates slightly at higher speed and on certain surfaces. **** is annoying, almost a pest and I guarantee you it's something minute/simple. Good luck sir and keep us posted.

6speeddave

The vibration truly comes and goes and it isn't too extreme but can be at times. Most of what Ive replaced has already needed replacement anyway. The engine mounts were also quite collapsed. My transmission mount wasn't too bad but was cheap to replace. At this point however unfortunately it is time to continue to try other things that aren't as obvious like control arms, ball joints, and tie rods.

What size tires are you running? Factory wheels? Mileage on your car? I am wondering if our ghost motorsport kits have something to do with it, how many miles do you have on your kit?

JDMAP1

What size tires are you running? Factory wheels? Mileage on your car? I am wondering if our ghost motorsport kits have something to do with it, how many miles do you have on your kit?[/QUOTE]

58K miles. Vertini RF1.2 20x9F with 255/35/20 tires. I haven't drove with factory wheels on it yet. Hmmm maybe I should to see.

I don't think it's the coilover as mine is on solid and only had about 12K miles on it.

Terence E ENoh

My vibration has reduced because I had warped rotors and the rotors were grinded down. But since I had a slight vibration after about 70mph, I think I found the culprit. My rear passenger tire is worn to the metal. I just bought a new tire. I will install it and update you guys. Wanted to install a sway bar link but the mechanic said it was still good. Will keep you updated. In the meantime Dave, don't keep spending money on parts that you may not need. When you listen closely to the vibration, is it coming from the front or the back? Do you feel the vibration on your steering wheel or you just hear it. If you feel it on your steering wheel too, then it's a component from your drivetrain, including tires. How are your tires (are they balanced, low thread, need to be replaced or need rebalancing?). Might wanna check those since those are huge culprits. When it vibrates, is there a noise? Is the noise clunky or metal on metal sounding?

6speeddave

Vibration is most felt through the steering wheel. No noise or other symptoms. Just a subtle to pronounced shudder / vibration felt in the wheel. Various pavements change the severity.

I have brand new michelins PS4's road forced twice, brand new oem wheels, new rotors and pads all around, I've also got a set of HRE's and PS4's on those and same thing. This is an issue I've more or less been dealing with for 18+ months now. Still love this car, drives perfect! And with the new mounts feels even more like a new car.

If I decide to keep digging, I will most likely go after the front control arms, ball joints, and possible tie rods next. I can't imagine anything in the driveshaft would shake the steering so much. For now I will most likely keep clocking miles and enjoying the car, and if the vibration gets worse then I know where to go next.

Terence E ENoh

Yeah bro, the good news is that you have some brand new parts that will last a while now. The other good news is that I think you've narrowed it down to what the problem might be to the ball joints or control arms. Keep us updated with what goes on.

JDMAP1

Hey fellas, it turns out that it was my wheel/tire. The front driver side wheel, Vertini RF1.2, ended up having a broken spoke so I'm assuming that's where the vibration is coming from, or could also be the tire wear too. Broken wheel being sent back for warranty, now oem wheels are on and NO MORE vibration. But do keep us updated on your process of elimination.

RoadTripKing

I'll be in a similar situation here soon. 2012 with 62k miles. Between 70 and 110 the feel is not completely smooth. My order of operations will be/would be (off the top of my head):
Tires:
Check tire pressure.
"Rotate" tires (swap left and right sides).
Inspect each tire thoroughly
Wheels:
Double check torque on lugs.
Re balance wheels, check for bent/cracked.
I want to do the Road Force balancing that I've heard of (I think that's what its called).
Rotors:
I can't tell anything by looking, but if they can be resurfaced - I'll do that. If not, replace.

Then next steps:
Alignment.
Tie rod ends (I have swapped these before myself, as mentioned here, pretty straight forward).
Suspension links (same).
Shocks and springs - mine are all stock.
Control arms and bushings (ugg!)
Last steps would be diagnosing and remedying harmonics: engine and transmission producing crazy different vibrations under a variety of conditions. I have 2 of 3 engine mounts ready to swap in another car for this same reason.

Can a picture of the broken spoke get posted?
Thanks

(My first post, I think!, yay)