StarvingArtist

Thank you.

Jezter

Bump.

Any updates with the kmac kits and or any others installed?

I tried one back in January and, unfortunately for me, it was in the shop for over a months time overall trying to figure out the issues with the product.

So, I am back in the market

K-Mac

Front Camber & Caster kit







ANY UPDATES / FEEDBACK / IMPROVEMENTS – LET US KNOW. THAT’S WHAT WE DO AT K-MAC –

DESIGN MANUFACTURE AND CONSTANTLY DEVELOP / UPGRADE OUR ALIGNMENT PRODUCTS.


THERE IS ONLY FRONT AND REAR TOE ADJUSTMENT OEM and we therefore saw the need and are the original manufacturers of both front and rear Camber, Caster, Toe adjustable bushing kits to suit virtually every model Mercedes 1968 to 2015 - Sedans, Wagons, SUV’s and Commercials.


Being the innovators / constantly breaking new ground can and does create controversy. Example our unique patented “adjustable bushing” concept is a revolution in design!


The last 40 or 50 years the industry standard for adjusting a suspension bush, to change a alignment setting required the labour intensive removal and repositioning each time.


THE K-MAC ADJUSTABLE BUSHING INVENTION CHANGED ALL THAT. . . .


Now – only requiring a single wrench to “ precisely adjust” accurately on car – direct on alignment rack under load (no more labour intensive dismantling each time) allowing simple ongoing, future adjustment when required to resolve premature edge tire wear, steering pull etc.


THE K-MAC DESIGN . . . .


“Hey it’s different”, “it can’t work”, “how does it work” Controversy. . . but once you get your head around it. . . it is simplicity itself! (often said the simplest design is the best design).


K-MAC PATENTED INTERLOCKING BOLT/BUSH INVENTION. . . .

• A inner bush rotates inside (stationary) outer sleeve. Means mount can be inserted in any position (not just one offset position of adjustment) allowing therefore precise change of adjustment SIMPLY BY ROTATING BOLT HEADS.

We have been manufacturing, developing the world’s largest range of adjuster kits (Audi to Volvo) for over 40 years, with patents and patents pending on many design breakthroughs including:

• The sliding ball joint for wishbone suspensions.
• The all positional aperture adjuster for strut suspension providing the quickest, biggest adjustment system.
• Strut adjusters for current Camaros, Mustangs and many other makes not requiring removal or structural modifications.
• 2 bolt flange strut adjusters not requiring downsized / weakened crank bolts to adjust.

All kits come with instructions and bush extraction/insertion tubes (MB World member Heiss Rod has kindly provided step by step picture sequence re front bush installation. See https://mbworld.org/forums/w211-amg/518431-k-mac-bushing-install-guide-w211-airmatic.html )


W219 Front kit (Camber and Caster) #502216K $480.


W219 Rear kit (Camber and Extra Toe) #502526K $480.


Including airmatic.


Current promotion for W219 MB World members USA / CANADA (and all other Mercedes models) is freight at $30 for one kit or $40 for front and rear. Average delivery time is 3 – 4 days. Can pay by Visa, M/Card or PayPal.

tonecas

Please don't do this. Crossing the tires will open you to security risks. Tires have wire frames that are deformed with load after some miles so you will be reversing that deformation and that puts stress on the tires. Only switch front to rear, keeping them to their sides. (only if the specs are the same for front and rear)

rorywquin

Interesting concept - lower your car, out of manufacture specification, and then deal with constant problems........I don't get it. Bit like those Stromberg Spark Converters they used to sell.

BeemerKiller

So out of aaaall those orders no one else even bothered to follow up and let every else know how they worked for them.

95viper

95viper

StarvingArtist

My rear k-mac bushings are still holding up after 50;000 miles and four years. The ones in the thrust arms are still good, but the ball joints are only good for about 30k, so they have to be reinstalled. The ones in the control arms didn't survive. K-mac sent me a new set, and told me not to rotate them as far. I wasn't getting enough adjustment even before, and the problem is all the force is on the thin side of the urethane. I ended up slotting the sub-frame and going with stock bushings in the control arms only. So k-mac in everything but the control arms, My front camber is at 0, the back is close. My tires last so long I get bored with them.
The reason no one came back to review is that everyone who mods their car is on the 211 amg forum. (Same car, different body style)

95viper

BeemerKiller

Oh I see. I knew the CLS is an E in a (better looking) disguise but didn't think about checking in the 211 section.

Well I am also curious where and how you "slotted" yours. If you would be so kind as to elaborate that would be awesome and it would be much appreciated.

StarvingArtist

The control arms are the ones square with the frame. Start with camber bolts, they have two slots in them and allow you to bolt the arms in three different positions. Buy a set of front k-mac bushings and new thrust arms to put them in. Those ball joints have a short lifespan anyway. You will have 4 bushings in the set. Keep 2 for later or give them to your buddy.

When you slam on the brakes all the force is pushing the control arms toward the center of the car. That is also the direction you need to cut the slots. It is a half day project to get it right. I do my own alignments with a wooden jig I built, and I set it down and aligned it 3 times before I cut far enough. I was going to build adjusters like on a motorcycle back wheel, but never got around to it. One of my slots is cut too far, but I tightened it down in the right spot and it's never slipped, and I've got P030 brakes and I'm not afraid to use them. I used a 2 foot level on the wheel to set the camber plumb. Avoid the tire bulge at the very bottom. and roll the car back and forth a couple times to settle the suspension. Use a jig or straight edge to set the toe dead square with the car first because the two ball joints at the bottom of the spindle are designed to change the camber as you steer. Pick your height before you start because that changes things pretty dramatically too. I'm lowered about 2 inches, so my k-macs are maxed out and my control arms are toward the center of the car almost as far as they can go with slots plus camber bolts to get my wheels to stand up straight. If you drive a lot, close buys you some time, but still chews the inside edges off. Pull a wheel off and spend some time under there getting all the geometry in your head before you do anything. Steer it back and forth and watch what changes. Don't get squished!

tonecas

It was originally based on the E class platform but not anymore AFAIK

BeemerKiller

Artist I can for the most part follow your directions/details and am certain in my abilities that I cannot do the same. Perhaps some photos would assist in picturing it better but I wouldn't be that much of a bother to anyone to ask. So I thank you for taking the time to explain it.

So what if I scrapped this whole idea of going with KMAC camber bushing set and went with something like this ebay link below instead? Would I still be able to achieve the same results, or do these not allow you to manipulate/adjust camber enough like the KMAC's bushing set? As far as I know the biggest downfall with this ebay item below is that it might stiffen the ride severely right? Curious your thoughts if these would help with what I currently have which is the Programa lowering model for my W219 also WITH lowering links cause even though the module allows you to adjust on the fly it still doesn't go low enough. Please let me know what you think?

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Mercedes-Benz-AMG-Adjustable-Toe-and-Camber-Arms-W211-W219-/172161428756

95viper

BeemerKiller

95Viper, awesome thank you for your response. I guess I mistook the item description too literal and assumed these were going to somehow eliminate that "plush" mentioned. Which I am not really interested in making it too stiff, I appreciate the ride how it is now. But I am more-so worried about the premature and uneven tread wear on the pilot super sports and good traction.
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Desc: "The factory camber and toe arms are made with soft rubber bushings that allow a plush mushy luxury ride"

In regards to alignment, I do like to always keep it at a specific height so I have alignment done there but it should be fine to drop it lower when parked and raise it again at departure right? Essentially it would raise back to that specific spot I had it aligned to and go back to '0' which is the benefit of the ELM I guess = The fine tune specific height you had it at without sacrificing the headache and reliability right? I hope at least that's the idea behind it, cause basically once it levels back to where you had it aligned to, it should be fine similar to how the manufacturer's system does with my "Sport 1" and "Sport 2" settings right? At least that's my take on it, hope it's correct though lol.

95viper

BeemerKiller

Ok great thank you!

95viper

BeemerKiller

Thank you 95Viper, I will look for it right now. So far I'm thinking the best bet (although not the cheapest) will be those red UPD links for the rear and still debating on whether to go with that adjustable front arm on ebay....

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Mercedes-AMG-W211-W219-CLS55-E55-E63-CLS63-Front-A-arm-Camber-Kit-Airmatic/302571344041?hash=item4672a850a9:g:qL8AAOSwIjJZXHP l

Or go with the Kmac front bushings. As you know they both have their faults. The arm isn't easy to adjust without taking off the tire cause they can't access the bolt when it is on the alignment rack right? But then the Kmac bushings are known to fail, become more costly and I'm not even sure they will be able to adjust FAR enough. So I'm kinda stuck at a stand still.