C219 CLS55 and CLS63, 2004-2010

DIY M156 Headbolt swap Part 2

Old 08-04-2017, 10:19 AM
  #26  
VII
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2016 S65, 2014 SLK55 (Previous 2013 SLK350, 2008 CLS63, 2006 E350, 2006 CLS500, 2005 C230K)
Originally Posted by bilal_242
Hey buddy,

Great post.
You have covered everything but I think one question is outstanding which is :
- if camshaft adjuster are replaced then do you need to go through an adjuster learning process?

Bilal
I am not sure under what conditions the learning process will make a difference to power/drivability/idle. It would make sense for it to be needed after an adjuster change, especially if the part has been updated.

Keep in mind that if I remember correctly the vehicle needs to be at a middle high rpm range in 3rd gear which is quite a bit of speed. Whether or not this is a problem depends on where you live.
Also the dealer should charge 1 hr for the procedure so you can just pass the problem to them.
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Old 08-05-2017, 02:13 PM
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Hi again. Quick question, what size bolt did you use to lock the camshaft adjuster gears?

Thanks in advance!
Old 10-18-2017, 07:21 PM
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Good job.







did mine too but removed whole motor and trans out of vehicle
Old 10-18-2017, 09:03 PM
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Wow nice job, done properly. It must be nice to know that is sorted.
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Old 02-16-2020, 12:44 PM
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Hi all,

I just did my head bolts on my w211 E63. I will post more on the process later, but for now, I have a problem. I examined the engine pulley at first. It had a part number on it, it had some numbers such as 3/4 or something like that, then it had 4-5 marks and the last mark had 40 on it. I put the pulley at this 40 degree mark.

Then I took the valve cover off on the driver side and was able to put all the timing tools in place: the back plate, holding device and timing tool. At this point the passenger side cover is not touched. I changed all the bolts one at a time.

Then I went on the passenger side and back plate couldn't be inserted. It was just a little off, maybe 1 mm. I had to rotate the engine another 360 degree and stopped at that same 40 degree. All the timing tools fell in their places now. I didn't re-check the driver side as I had only one timing tool. I replaced bolts on the passenger side and installed everything back.

I started the car and the car is shaking and I am getting flashing check engine light. Did I screw up timing? Would timing tools fit if I wasn't on 40 degree though? Also, I am not sure about the electrical connectors on cam adjuster covers. There are two: top and bottom. I wasn't sure which one was which. Would mixed up electrical connectors on the adjuster cover cause vibrations, or are they the same?
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Old 02-16-2020, 01:05 PM
  #31  
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If you literally did what you described you have inverted timing between the heads.
Remember the camshaft rotates 1 per every two rotations of the crankshaft.
Old 02-16-2020, 01:16 PM
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Originally Posted by VII
If you literally did what you described you have inverted timing between the heads.
Remember the camshaft rotates 1 per every two rotations of the crankshaft.
What are my options? How do I get it timed now? Also, would the order of adjuster cover connector make difference? Does it matter which one is top or bottom? I disconnected without marking them first.
Old 02-16-2020, 01:36 PM
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You need to re do the timing, both heads at the same time. You'll need to rotate one set of camshafts manually to get them into position.

The connectors do matter but engine won't shake if you get them wrong, you'll simply get a performance error.
Old 02-16-2020, 03:05 PM
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Originally Posted by VII
You need to re do the timing, both heads at the same time. You'll need to rotate one set of camshafts manually to get them into position.

The connectors do matter but engine won't shake if you get them wrong, you'll simply get a performance error.
My pulley has so many marks and numbers on it: 3-5, 440, 480 HZ. There are also bunch of unnumbered marks followed by the one that says 40 on it. That’s what I used - the 40 mark. Is that the one I should be using?


I set it to 40 and was able to insert cam locking tools on the driver side. However I couldn’t insert the plate on the passenger side as it was off by 1mm. I turned the engine 360 degrees twice and now was able to lock the cams.




Last edited by Rovel; 02-16-2020 at 03:07 PM.
Old 03-03-2020, 09:09 AM
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Originally Posted by VII
You need to re do the timing, both heads at the same time. You'll need to rotate one set of camshafts manually to get them into position.

The connectors do matter but engine won't shake if you get them wrong, you'll simply get a performance error.
I did my timing again but still getting misfires on two cylinders. I put the engine at 40 degrees. All the cam locking and timing plates fit in their respective positions just fine. Didn’t have to turn cams or anything. What else should I be checking for? I checked the electrical connections too.
Old 03-03-2020, 09:19 AM
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Two cylinders in the same side? Check compression, you might have damage.
Old 07-01-2020, 06:39 PM
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Thanks to this forum I replaced head bolts one at a time and made a DIY video
Old 09-10-2021, 12:51 PM
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Originally Posted by Rovel
Thanks to this forum I replaced head bolts one at a time and made a DIY video https://youtu.be/zJO1qNnhxw4
very nice video. thanks for taking the time to make it.
Old 03-08-2023, 05:05 AM
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Originally Posted by Rovel
My pulley has so many marks and numbers on it: 3-5, 440, 480 HZ. There are also bunch of unnumbered marks followed by the one that says 40 on it. That’s what I used - the 40 mark. Is that the one I should be using?


I set it to 40 and was able to insert cam locking tools on the driver side. However I couldn’t insert the plate on the passenger side as it was off by 1mm. I turned the engine 360 degrees twice and now was able to lock the cams.


So normally if you set the timing on one side the other side should be in perfect position to put the holder, i do not need to rotate 2 times 360, in case i find the same problem you found i have to rotate the crankshaft two times not only one times. Right?

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