Just got my '02 Coupe, suggestions on sound?
The stock system has less bass and distorts more than my sister's jetta.
Everything sounds flat with too much midrange. Any suggestions So i can get A LOT more bass without changing out the headunit. Is it really hard to add a sub to these cars? Its leased right now, but need to upgrade this!!
BTW, my 99 Clk Cabrio has such a better sound system. The coupe has 6 speakers, 3 in each door, but the clk has a sub in the rear seat. I guess thats the difference. If I could get it to sound like that I would be pleased!
Thanks Everyone!!
The money you'd spend would be pitched. Bose is fed via Fiber from the head unit so you can't update components *****-nilly.
What you now have is a really nice, analog output radio.
Get the speaker sizes (search the board). Buy some nice MB Quart, A/D/S or Boston speakers and a decent amp. It'll cost you around $2k but you'll end up with something you'll be proud of instead of -- well what the rest of us got

If you want to keep stock head AND get CD... get the Audio 10... search for that as well.
Enjoy.
If i have the standard system, should my display say EXT when I hit AUD?
The manual refers to it, but I dont have it!
Right now it soundslike it has WAY to much midrange and like no bass or treble even with teh sound all the way up. I dont want killer sound but its overly clear.
Thanks Matt.
Any other suggestions, I just need to drown out this midrange a little and the bass and treb controls dont cut it.
I would also like a more natural bass instead of it only occuring at really high volume.
Is it really hard to wire a sub into these cars? My clk has one in it from the factory, but im sure its difficult.
Thanks for the help so far everyone!
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I've had the Audio 10 for a day. The bass is still barely noticable at low volume and while driving with the roof open. I think it sounds better at high volume then the A30 did though.
Im fine with the mid and highs' they dont sound bad to me.
The bass does distort however at loud voulume. A dedicated sub would be great.
Could it be powered by the stock headunit??
Help me!!
IS there an EASY way to add bass to my stock standard system however?
Im fine with the mid and highs' they dont sound bad to me.
The bass does distort however at loud voulume. A dedicated sub would be great.
Could it be powered by the stock headunit??
Help me!!
and of course the stock headunit can power an aftermarket sub great.
Here's a pic of my setup.
Where did u tap the line to get it to the amP?
Is it really hard to run a line back from the HU to hook up a sub and amp in the trunk?
I think the sound is great but the bass just muds out the rest if its loud.
All i want is a dedicated sub!
Thanks
On a related topic, give Reus systems a try. They have a great Coupe package.. additional tweeters in front, additional sub in rear (goes in the space above the spare - cool design).
Then new amp for the new elements and adjusting of all the current factory crap so that it balances with the new stuff. Good prices for what you get.
Give them a try!
P
I'm with you on the point about the bass-heads with systems that BOOM down the road, but let's not throw out the baby with the bathwater! If you want to reproduce the lowest octaves of the audible frequency range while reducing the strain on your mid-woof's (which WILL make them sound better over their range) , you GOT TO HAVE a subwoofer
Last edited by Jim Banville; Oct 6, 2002 at 10:16 PM.
Hokusbenz, a subwoofer actually can bring a stock audio system's overall response into "balance". Asking the small speakers in a typical stock system to produce accurate, good sounding bass is asking for disappointment. In addition to that, adding a sub allows the user to reduce the strain on the stock speakers that are no longer asked to produce the bass, which should further improve overall sound quality. Both of these typically allow the sub'd system to play louder than before. Whether you choose to use this increased volume to "impress" people, or allow yourself to hear the quietest passages from a orchestral score is completely up to you
Jim in theory that might sound like it would work, but it reality some additional mods would be necessary. Since this is a stock HU you would need a good passive high pass x-over on the stock speakers to remove the bass. I would suggest around 150 Hz. With that in mind you have to realise that those components might be fairly bulky depending of the x-over design 6 dB vs 12 dB vs ???. This wiil relief the strain on the stocks. Turning down the bass alone won't help that much because these cheap Alpine HU tone controls have a wide ranging effect. Now you can tap into the the signal between the x-over and the HU to feed the full signal to your subamp. There I would suggest you set the low pass x-over at around 80 - 100 HZ. This staggering of the x-overs tries to take into effect the transfer function of the interior. Now you can set your gain control on the subamp to dial in as much bass as you would like. Some of the newer amps even have a remote control for that so you can change whenever you want. I've seen some of those control mounted in place of the cigarette lighter. I think it all depends what a person wants and how many $$$$ they want to spend. Well, so much for my $0.02.
Amdeutsch, the way some people turn up the BASS control on their stereo equipment, sometimes adding a self-powered subwoofer would allow that same person to turn his BASS control back to "0", which would not work nearly as good as a high-pass xover, but would give the headunit (which powers most stock speaker systems) and the stock speakers a MUCH easier life
I know what you mean. Those are the same people that turn up all controls on an equalizer because they think that it sounds better but really don't fully understand how things work.
give me break dude. and dont lecture me on the 3 db rule either :p i say if your not gonna go all out on a system then dont waste time ruining it.
i know all about having headroom on amps so that the sound is cleaner, but this is just too far off to be balanced.
Hokusbenz, twice you have accused me of "lecturing" you in this thread. I am simply expressing my educated opinion, as you are, and bringing up facts that others reading this thread may be unaware of. Isn't that what these boards are for? Do you claim that your opinion is THE LAST WORD on subjects of audio reproduction in the car? (rhetorical question)
P
There is also this myth that you must have an area at least as long as the calculated length of a sound wave for the sound to exist. Not true. If that were true imagine how awful headphones would sound with their tiny transducers.
Regarding standing waves, you'd probably have bigger problems with them in large areas where the full length of the sound wave is allowed to propogate. I'd receommed F. Alton Everset's "Handbook to Acoustics" for anyone interested in delving further into the science of sound
He's the expert (not me)!






