Tackling the issues in a MY2000 W220 is no easy task. I am determined to get this car in 100% working order again.

Okay, both front struts have been replaced with brand new ones. LCA bushings have been replaced. Ball joints are fresh. Wallet is empty. The car continues to drop slowly (but abnormally) overnight.

I'm reading and hearing that the hoses from the air compressor may be leaking. Well, I dived under and took a look at the compressor today and there are hoses running rampant. How can I tell which ones are leaking? I inquired about buying a brand new compressor, and apparently the two extra parts needed are the Hella relay and ONE hose. One hose? Which one is that?

I can dive under again and post a picture of the compressor if needed. I'm thinking about taking out the compressor and evaluating it up close. I do not want to order a brand new compressor without knowing exactly what the issue is first. My currently compressor pumps air slowly, but is nonetheless working still.

Help is appreciated.

 

Here is a reference picture of the pump for now.

 

Are you dealing with a qualified service department? There are many possible leak sources: not only hoses, but valves, fittings, reservoirs and the compressor itself can be the source. The dealer uses special couplings that connect various points to the Star Diagnostic System. Trial and error will mainly result in error. You might need a dealer with a better service department that the one that's been yanking your chain.

 

How techs get trained:

http://www.mercedestechstore.com/pdf...%207-17-02.pdf

 

Whooever, thank you for the help. I did not know that Star Diagnostic can aid in find leaks in the system.

 

Hello Newton..

Sorry to hear you are still having issues... This may help you troubleshoot your problem further..

Is your entire vehicle ( all 4 corners ) dropping overnight?
If yes, then your leak has to be upstream of the main manifold
which I believe is near your compressor.

the piping should be divided into 3 sections. rear, front rt and front left.
because this is how your transducers are wired.

If you check the area that is common to all four corners this will eliminate
a lot of wasted testing.

This area would be at the compressor, the main reservoir, the main manifold, or any of the relative hose connections.

Since this is a slow leak, it may be harder to trace, but there is always a way,it just may take a while but here goes...

Unless there is found to be an internal leak at the compressor, I would eliminate this..

to find out if the compressor or the dump valve is leaking, find the dump section where the compressor depletes the air after going into rest mode.

You know when you get out of the car after after driving and you hear a whiiish of air when you lock the car. find this connection and make sure that once this air releases it stops.This should be a solenoid valve that has a hose connected to one side and goes to ambient air on the other. It may still be seeping and you not be able to hear it.. this will slowly drain all of the air from your system and it will not come back up till you unlock the drivers door and restart the car.

The reason your compressor doesn't start back up and try to pump up the system is because it is in rest mode.

This may be the culprit..

is this what you are experiencing?

That is one possibility.. the other which is much easier is to go from the compressor to the main manifold checking all hoses for slow leaks including the manifold.

To do this.. start the car, and raise it using the raise button. then shut the car off but don't lock it. In fact, I think you have to leave the drivers door open so that it will not go into rest mode. with the car naturally raised, you can use a light soap solution to spray the components and check for bubbles.. this is the most effective way to find small air leaks in tubing and pneumatic components.

With the front lower cover removed, you should have access to most of your pneumatic components..just keep a block or two under the frame for safety but not supporting the car.

Of course if you are only talking abou one wheel, then you just need to find out which hose goes to that wheel of its the front or in case of the rear, take a look at the distribution block in the back of the car where it tees of for the rear wheels.

good luck..

"DM"

 

Hey D,

Only the front end is dropping overnight. The rears are fine. Thanks for explaining all the possibilities, but reading that was like reading another language!

What could cause only the front end to drop?

 

Sorry I got a little technical...LOL..

IF its only the fronts, then its easier to troubleshoot. ( to me..)

Since I can;t do my yard as planned tomorrow, I'll disect my car and shoot you some pics if what to look for and where to look.


As I said before.. THere is a place where the two hoses that go to each of your struts meet. This junction must be at the pump because remember I said earlier that the two front air supplies are separate, and the rears are joined together.
So logically, this supply must be directly on the pump outlet. This has to be where the leak is coming from.

I'll have a look at the layout tomorrow.

Since its only the fronts... it could definitely be the dump as I explained in my last book.(LOL) because only the fronts drop when the car goes to rest.
I just got back into town today so I'll take a good look tomorrow at my car and tell you for sure.

YOurs should be very similar to mine.

 

Hmmm, sounds like front strut seals but everything has been replaced huh, perhaps something was messed up on the install, I would put some soapy water on top of those strut seals and see if anything is getting out, also did you replace the airmatic relay switch? it is a $30 part.

 

Negative on the relay, but that only controls the operation of the pump. Relays don't contribute to leaking Airmatics.

 

my car does the same thing the front drops about an inch or more, there's about 1.5-2max finger gap space between the tire and fender.

My struts were diagnosed and are fine, no leaks there plus I got a new left strut 3 weeks ago.

 

I had the same problem with my 2000 S500. Turns out that it was a leak at the Electronic/Mechanical Control Block. I had to replace the control block. The part is $300.

 

My dealer diagnosed my car today. They said the valve block is the issue and the part costs $300. I'm assuming this is the same part?

I've been trying to find it online, but no dice so far.

 

$300 is not bad, my dealership wants $420 for it. How hard is the install? I don't mind the front end dropping makes the car look good

Any negative side affects if we don't get this part replaced?

 

Yeah, your pump will have to work harder than if no leak were present. A harder working pump means a shorter life span for it.

 

thought so... glad they confirmed..

 

I have a 2000 S430 with air suspension system problem. The car is tilted to the left (driver side) both front and back. Different mechanics suggesting different possibilities (air/hose leaks, bad air pumps, bad suspensions, bad sensors, bad wirings...!).
I am debating between 2 options:

1/ Disable the airmatic system: is that possible? if so, how? Any negative impacts?
2/ Convert the air suspension system to a non-active (old fashion) coil-over-strut system from www.strutmasters.com.

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated!

 

cant disable it... car will be too low to drive

converting to springs isnt a good option

get it fixed by a competent mechanic and use cheaper arnott parts

 

I would say throw your air springs into the rubbish its a not working system anyway!
MB installed these worthless items and they all fail! If you replace them you will need to replace the replacements soon again.
Ridiculous even to talk about it.
I am a car dealer just to let you know these cars all have the same problem.All. Only few years they runs fine 2-3 at the best 4-5.
Usually less than that.
Anyway find out why the car does drop its height after the suspension replacement (new!) its not easy!
I just did that again and there is no good way to do that.
This car I am talking about had a new front strut installed and after that it drops down to tyres overnight.
Before did not do this with the faulty suspension.
Its just clearly useless good for nothing system.
Good luck for all.

 

Not always, Peter. I just reviewed a post on BenzWorld where the owner has (finally) experienced a problem after 9 years. My car is now 8 years old and (cross my fingers) still doing fine.

When I owned cars using standard shocks and coil springs, I was happy to get 5 good years out of the shocks.

 

Okay I admit I was wrong its probably not always and not all cars.
Lets put this to my days struggle against air suspension leaks.
:-)

Anyway I am now much into it and as it seems my problem this time is not an easy one so it requires a full propere diagnostic on the whole air system!
As I wrote this story of mine is similar to the stories of others I have read about on this forum.

After suspension replacement there is still a leak somewhere... I checked the top by soap and water and result: NO LEAKS on the top.
(As I expected as its a brand new strut!)
Next thing I do will be a Star diagnosis on the pneumatic system.
(According to Eric from the BenzForum it should do help to identify and locate my leakage!)
So I will report it back on this for you guys!

And back to the faults on the suspension system I would rather say its highly depends on the owner!
If the car had been serviced and looked after well with attention for common faults then it will work. However that is not the case in general on the second hand market.

 

S500 2001 78000
I've just had a new Airmatic pump fitted. I have noticed that the air release isn't happening any more (or no sound) also there is a knocking sound from the back (not all the time just when driving on poor surfacing) any idea much appreciated guys.

 

I obtained a 2005 S class 320 and the off side was a centimetre lower on both front and rear. A MB garage rectified the balance.

Due to personal reasons it has not been run and after about 4 months it started settling again after about another 3 months the off side had bottomed out and the near side started. Now all four are bottomed out.

A notice to all MB owners suspension check is not included in MB service manuals. So you can be keeping up with the services yet be driving an unroadworthy car - be warned.

Does the above lead anyone to identify possible cause ?

 

Hello to all! I'm a newbie to the forum and M-B also, so please bear with me as I'm looking for help with an airmatic leak on 2007 S550. Yesterday, after sitting for about 3 hours, the car refused to raise all 4 corners when ready to drive away. The left front stayed very low, and the alarm activated. I turned the switch on and off several times while the engine was running, and shortly, the alarm stopped, and the car seemed to drive OK. Questions: does this system use hydraulic fluid as well as air? how to check/refill that fluid? Since only 1 wheel seems to be the issue, does that indicate a bad valve block, or more likely an air-line from the pump to LF shock? Any help is appreciated, as I don't trust the car as my DD. Thanks,
Steve

 

Look at the buttons on your dash, and see if there is one labeled "ABC". If so, you have ABC suspension, which is hydraulic, rather than Airmatic suspension, which is pneumatic.

ABC is more complex, more expensive, and more sophisticated.

Look at the Forum threads at the top of the page and find the one that says "Start Here", then start there. You will find a lot of info on the suspension systems.