Brake lamp, left/right
#1
Brake lamp, left/right
My 2006 ML 350 is getting a message brake lamp right, brake lamp right substitute bulb on and brake lamp left, brake lamp left substitute bulb on, does anyone know what this mean?
#5
#6
Senior Member
I replaced 2 bulbs in short time, went to service and they did it free of charge.
As answer on your question - I think it could be done by yourself but I am not sure if you have all required parts for that ...
#7
DIY Brake light fix. Dont bother with dealer
So my gf's 06 ml350 did this warning light. Bulbs were all good. I bought the repair kit from mb. Waste of money. Its not a plug n play deal. You still have to splice into the hot wire.
If you have any sotterig skills hou can do this yourself for free. Heck i would do this for cheap for anyone in my area. Keevin77@live.com bentonville ar
Simply pull the bulb socket from taillight housing. Sotter a red wire the power terminal to splice into the main power wire on harness which i sottered to it as well. Sotter a ground wire to ground side on the bulb socket. Run it to chasis ground. Plug back in and your done. No need to spend money at mb.
If you have any sotterig skills hou can do this yourself for free. Heck i would do this for cheap for anyone in my area. Keevin77@live.com bentonville ar
Simply pull the bulb socket from taillight housing. Sotter a red wire the power terminal to splice into the main power wire on harness which i sottered to it as well. Sotter a ground wire to ground side on the bulb socket. Run it to chasis ground. Plug back in and your done. No need to spend money at mb.
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#8
Very simple to do yourself. I just did both of mine on my 07. You do have to remove one wire from the factory harness and insert the wire from the repair kit. You install one ground wire to the body ground screw. You need a wire harness removal pin tool. There are great photos hee on the site which I followed. I was also getting the same message. With these kits you will be trouble free.
Also no soldering required at all. No need to cut anything, just remove existing pin and replace.
Also no soldering required at all. No need to cut anything, just remove existing pin and replace.
#9
Member
I think I paid the dealership less than $150 for a bulb burning out campaign. They were fully aware of it, but I did email the service advisor with the following Campaign 2 164-826-00-07.
I was charged 1.5 hours to replace the harness at both tail lights.
Error free since this was performed.
Well worth the headache being gone!
I was charged 1.5 hours to replace the harness at both tail lights.
Error free since this was performed.
Well worth the headache being gone!
#12
Related note with LED tails
I had some led tails installed, and also getting this messege. Also when at night with the lights on, only one side brightens up. I've read somewhere that it's related to the rear fogs?? The new led unit doesn't have the connectors for the very top light(brake)socket as well, I'm guessing that's why I'm getting this error. If anyone can chime in this prob.
#13
I had some led tails installed, and also getting this messege. Also when at night with the lights on, only one side brightens up. I've read somewhere that it's related to the rear fogs?? The new led unit doesn't have the connectors for the very top light(brake)socket as well, I'm guessing that's why I'm getting this error. If anyone can chime in this prob.
No second connector (for top socket/light).
Right side break light does not work.
Top three rows of both lights do not work.
Lights-related error messages on the computer.
Any advice?
#14
#15
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2019 S560 Maybach
There is another way that I saw on a forum somewhere. I don't know if you already fixed your problems, but I might as well share the knowledge.
I had the issue and did this super simple DIY thing and have been error free ever since.
I have a FL car and it is always exposed to a lot of humidity, therefore oxidation is easy to occur on the metal connectors of the plastic housing that you twist into the light assembly.
All you need for this is some Metal Polish, a rag, and a small screw driver.
It's easy to twist out the lights in the back and you'll see two metal prongs that connect to the light assembly (which is where the power connection occurs, I guess. Sorry, not an electrician so pardon the lack of technical terms)
Ok, so if it looks dull and somewhat oxidized this could be where the problems come from, it was for me. The connection has simply gone bad from oxidation getting in the way.
So here are the steps I followed: (as simple as I can explain them)
And that's it. Takes about 30 min start to finish if you have a good polish.
Worked for me, didn't take long at all, and the best part is I didn't have to pay stealership labor hours!
Hope this helps some people out!
I had the issue and did this super simple DIY thing and have been error free ever since.
I have a FL car and it is always exposed to a lot of humidity, therefore oxidation is easy to occur on the metal connectors of the plastic housing that you twist into the light assembly.
All you need for this is some Metal Polish, a rag, and a small screw driver.
It's easy to twist out the lights in the back and you'll see two metal prongs that connect to the light assembly (which is where the power connection occurs, I guess. Sorry, not an electrician so pardon the lack of technical terms)
Ok, so if it looks dull and somewhat oxidized this could be where the problems come from, it was for me. The connection has simply gone bad from oxidation getting in the way.
So here are the steps I followed: (as simple as I can explain them)
- Remove the lightbulb housing
- Inspect the bulb to see if it's ok
- If it's ok, you can polish up the base of the bulb too. Turned into reflective aluminum from a dull start. (Make sure to clean it good afterwards removing all the polish)
- Inspect the metal pieces that connect to the bulb in the little plastic housing
- If the plastic under the metal tabs on the edges is burnt/bubbled, it can be a power problem. (I heard sanding down the bubble and lifting the tab away from it could do the trick *not confirmed*)
- If not, then it can be a connection issue.
- Take your screwdriver and look at the sides. There you'll see two locking hooks that prevent the metal pieces from falling out. Use the little screw driver to push down the hooks and gently lift out the metal bits.
- Polish up the oxidized metal. ALL of it. I know, it can be a pain to get in the tight spots, but it ensures a solid connection. (Again went from dull to reflective metal)
- Once polished with the metal polish, clean the tabs thoroughly to remove all polish.
- Simply slide the tabs back in the housing. Make sure they're tight and the little locking hooks are in order.
- *TRICK* Once I put the tabs back in, I used the small screw driver to lift the tabs that connect the plastic light housing to the light assembly to make sure they press together tightly when connected.
- Place light bulb back into housing
- Replace lights into brake sockets. (Both housings are the same pieces, so left and right doesn't matter)
And that's it. Takes about 30 min start to finish if you have a good polish.
Worked for me, didn't take long at all, and the best part is I didn't have to pay stealership labor hours!
Hope this helps some people out!
#16
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2015 ML350 4Matic
alternate fix
I swapped the brake light socketo and the tail light socket.
This resulted in the tail light not working but resolved the brake light issue.
Then I took the problematic tail light socket, cleaned up the metal connections with dremel, then used soldering iron to melt some soldering material to the now clean connections. Now the tail light has been working problem free. ..
This resulted in the tail light not working but resolved the brake light issue.
Then I took the problematic tail light socket, cleaned up the metal connections with dremel, then used soldering iron to melt some soldering material to the now clean connections. Now the tail light has been working problem free. ..