Installing Front Camber/Castor Bolts & Thrust Arm Bushings (Possible DIY)

[slammer111]

Originally Posted by wazabii I just lowered my front and I had an alignment done with camber bolts to the front and rear. Still pull slightly to the right. Cost me $250. Indie said Mercedes design their cars to pull slightly to the right as a safety feature. Any truth to this? Still going to go back (for the 3rd time) tomorrow to get it going straight. Yes this is true, but specifically, MBs WILL pull to the side of the road. The centrelines on most roads in developed countries (ie the crown) are built higher so that rain will go off the sides. Those who drive on the right side therefore will pull to the right. The sales guy told me not to worry a) if the car pulls to the right, and b) if the headlight cutoff is higher towards the right (also a design feature or LHD cars).

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[spyderpig]

That's what I heard too but wasn't sure.
And for the headlight, I've heard in the new in Europe that the right headlight is aiming slightly higher than left so left won't blind the oncoming trafic.

[BF_JC230]

It also helps having the close curb side main beam higher to see pedestrians and possibly animals. That is why LHD and RHD cars have different headlights. Also DOT and TUV lights are built different for "sign illumination" and road construction.

But that is not what this thread is about...my yearly alignment has been spot on - MY2005 C230K built 11/30/04

Thanks for the info,
Jake

[drexappeal]

Most roads are designed to slope slightly down to the right, in order to prevent flooding. Best way to test out if it's pulling significantly to the right is in a flat parking lot OR in a non crowded residential street where you can stradle the car literally in the middle of the road.

[MiKeSSw203]

dang I've been meaning to do this for so long
part # still the same??

[drexappeal]

Originally Posted by MiKeSSw203

dang I've been meaning to do this for so long
part # still the same??

I'm pretty sure they are, Mike. Do you have the Performance Products catalog? It might be listed in there too, since they finally added the w203 to the parts listing area of the catalog.

[wazabii]

Originally Posted by advans

lol never heard of that. did u tell your indy that your wallet was designed to give him slightly less cash?

Got the car back and it goes straight!...a slight lean to the right after 700 feet on the freeway but not noticeable to be annoying. I was told that all they did was swap the left and right rear tires. I'm not sure how this affected the car.

I'll tell my indy about my wallet's slim design the next time I see him. He'll get a good laugh at that.

[turboavant]

should i get these or the kmac kit? i'm going with coilovers but if these do a decent enough job adjusting camber then it will save $300.

[mleskovar]

Replaced my thrust arm bushings and while I was under the car looked for the oil leak that was causing a burnt oil smell. Didn't find any leaks but the oil smell went away.....the smell was the silicone in the bushings that was leaking out! Now my car tracks better, the tires stopped howling, and tire wear/feathering on the edges should stop. Seems the thrust arm bushings are good for about 50K miles.

[krisv420]

Originally Posted by mleskovar

Replaced my thrust arm bushings and while I was under the car looked for the oil leak that was causing a burnt oil smell. Didn't find any leaks but the oil smell went away.....the smell was the silicone in the bushings that was leaking out! Now my car tracks better, the tires stopped howling, and tire wear/feathering on the edges should stop. Seems the thrust arm bushings are good for about 50K miles.

\

You have a picture? of this because i think my front right one is leaking something

[Glyn M Ruck]

Originally Posted by mleskovar

Replaced my thrust arm bushings and while I was under the car looked for the oil leak that was causing a burnt oil smell. Didn't find any leaks but the oil smell went away.....the smell was the silicone in the bushings that was leaking out! Now my car tracks better, the tires stopped howling, and tire wear/feathering on the edges should stop. Seems the thrust arm bushings are good for about 50K miles.

Those bushes or bearings are supposed to have been redesigned. Made them replace mine under warantee before they deteriorated

Kris - there is a DIY posting showing replacement on a C240. Gives you the whole scene and what the leaks look like

[power-fade]

Originally Posted by Glyn M Ruck

Those bushes or bearings are supposed to have been redesigned. Made them replace mine under warantee before they deteriorated

Kris - there is a DIY posting showing replacement on a C240. Gives you the whole scene and what the leaks look like

Spray some grease on it and get it under warranty

[mleskovar]

Originally Posted by Glyn M Ruck

Those bushes or bearings are supposed to have been redesigned. Made them replace mine under warantee before they deteriorated....

I heard they were "redesigned" as well. This is my third set of bushings. The only way to tell they are bad is if they are leaking or tires wear/feather on the outer edges even after an alignment. The wear causes the tires to become noisy, best described as a "howl"....kind of like those off-road tires on trucks but not as loud.

[Glyn M Ruck]

Originally Posted by mleskovar

I heard they were "redesigned" as well. This is my third set of bushings. The only way to tell they are bad is if they are leaking or tires wear/feather on the outer edges even after an alignment. The wear causes the tires to become noisy, best described as a "howl"....kind of like those off-road tires on trucks but not as loud.

Yes - I was assured that they had been redesigned but the part number has not changed??? Agree with all your comments - leaks - noise etc. They also start to devulcanize from the outer metal ring if you examine them carefully. Mine had started slight separation so I made them replace them under the maintenance plan FOC at 45,000 Kms even through they had not failed & I had had no trouble with them yet. Wheel alignment still perfect. My service manager told me that they usually replace them as soon as alignment becomes an issue. But he's a good guy and went over the car with a fine tooth comb & replaced any potentially troublesome parts under the maintenance plan before they gave me a problem as he knows it's about to expire. Never had any silicone leaks

[Saprissa]

interesting...
my C320 Coupe is still under warranty.
Do you have the part #'s handy for those new "redesigned" bushings ???

will need to get those replaced sooner or later, even though I've yet to experience any tire howling or edge feathering.

Carlos

Saprissa@aol.com

[Glyn M Ruck]

Originally Posted by Saprissa

interesting...
my C320 Coupe is still under warranty.
Do you have the part #'s handy for those new "redesigned" bushings ???

will need to get those replaced sooner or later, even though I've yet to experience any tire howling or edge feathering.

Carlos

Saprissa@aol.com

Here we go Carlos

Part No - MA 203 333 10 14 Bearing (Benz calls them bearings)

You might need new bolts to accommodate the 3 different offsets if your car still has the factory originals. Why Benz does not fit them at build I'll never know & they are expensive. $150 for 2 bolts in RSA!!! Don't have part number for bolts. I'll take some pics of devulcanization - I still have old bushes - stole these pics from another poster a long while back for my "car" folder because they show the 3 bolt locations clearly.

Edit: See devulcanization pic attached from my car at 45,000Kms. Hit one underwater pothole at low mileage and damaged 2 tyres - rims fine - alignment in spec - might have aggravated devulcanization.

[mleskovar]

Originally Posted by Glyn M Ruck

....You might need new bolts to accommodate the 3 different offsets if your car still has the factory originals. .. these pics ... show the 3 bolt locations clearly..

I don't believe there are three bolt locations. Those ridges are used to locate the bolt through the center of the bushing.

[Glyn M Ruck]

Originally Posted by mleskovar

I don't believe there are three bolt locations. Those ridges are used to locate the bolt through the center of the bushing.

No sir - there are 3 bolt locations. I've witnessed the job being done. If you can't get alignment right in one location - you move the bolt to a new "centre" and that gives you another range of adjustment. The adjustment ranges overlap slightly. The cars come assembled with a standard bolt. To make the other range of adjustments available you require new bolts that fit any of the 3 slots - will get the Benz part number for you if you wish. When fitted to my car they cost $150 for 2. The 3 location system has been drummed into every MB Tech & alignment shop in this country. I've never found one that did not understand this.

[mleskovar]

Originally Posted by Glyn M Ruck

No sir - there are 3 bolt locations. I've witnessed the job being done. .... The 3 location system has been drummed into every MB Tech in this country. I've never found one that did not understand this.

I'm just a backyard mechanic (an old one though!) so I can definitely still learn something new but I think you're referring to the camber bolts. They go through the bushing on the lower control arm. Those bushings are solid rubber mounted and the different bolts give you different adjustment ranges. I had those replaced under warranty to correct a steering pulling to the side problem.

[Glyn M Ruck]

Originally Posted by mleskovar

I'm just a backyard mechanic (an old one though!) so I can definitely still learn something new but I think you're referring to the camber bolts. They go through the bushing on the lower control arm. Those bushings are solid rubber mounted and the different bolts give you different adjustment ranges. I had those replaced under warranty to correct a steering pulling to the side problem.

Castor bolts on my car are 3 position in the bush. Was put through a personal tutorial by my service manager - so now I don't know ?????

If this were not so - why not just have a round hole on the centre of the bush for a standard bolt?

Also. One wheel is set ahead of the other i.e. greater castor to offset road camber. RHD cars have the left hand front wheel set ahead of the right & LHD car are set vice versa to stop pulling.

[mleskovar]

Originally Posted by Glyn M Ruck

...If this were not so - why not just have a round hole on the centre of the bush for a standard bolt?....

I thought the same thing when replacing them. My bad, I just researched and found the difference between castor and camber and the different bolts used to adjust them. My bolts had smooth shafts so they obviously would only fit in the middle. I was only aware of the camber adjusting bolts. Learned something new today.

[Glyn M Ruck]

Originally Posted by mleskovar

I thought the same thing when replacing them. My bad, I just researched and found the difference between castor and camber and the different bolts used to adjust them. My bolts had smooth shafts so they obviously would only fit in the middle. I was only aware of the camber adjusting bolts. Learned something new today.

mleskovar kind sir - this is not about you being wrong and me being right - It's about us all learning and benefitting. You had me doubting my sanity or comprehension for a while there. I thought we might be using different terminology for the same thing because I grew up under a British education system and frequently the Americans name things differently - you know trunk & boot, bonnet & hood, lift and elevator. I try to use American terminology on this forum because it is predominantly American. I thought camber and castor were universal. I've heard people talking about eccentric bolts on the forum, & while I know what they are, there are none, to my knowledge, in the front suspension of a W203.

Anyway, found it in my filing system finally! - A picture tells a thousand words they say - Here we go. This explains things perfectly. Note the Germans use yet more different terminology!!

[mleskovar]

The first picture you posted was the one I found as well that explained it to me. After looking at it I realized how lucky I was to have the smooth shaft bolts. I could have put the fluted ones in wrong! I read on a DIY post that it was important to orient the new bushings and old bolts the same as when you removed them but couldn't figure out why Now I know. Thanks for the help.

[TruTaing]

Hmm. You guys mind just relinking to the DIY or the threads you guys found w/ the information on this? I believe I have smelled what you guys are describing before. I will get under the car + look when I get home, but my car is well over 50k and these could use a good replacing anyways.

Thanks,

[Glyn M Ruck]

Originally Posted by mleskovar

The first picture you posted was the one I found as well that explained it to me. After looking at it I realized how lucky I was to have the smooth shaft bolts. I could have put the fluted ones in wrong! I read on a DIY post that it was important to orient the new bushings and old bolts the same as when you removed them but couldn't figure out why Now I know. Thanks for the help.

Thank you for the help you have given me since joining the forum. As I read through this and other forums - or lay hands on stuff from my service manager I just dump it all in a file on my computer if I think I might need to refer to it. I downloaded this stuff long ago but alas my filing system is poor & the content out of control. Now it takes me forever to find things. I need to reload Copernic desktop search on my computer. I said to Saprissa on this thread that I didn't know the bolt part number & there it is shouting at me from a photo I had filed.