Installing Front Camber/Castor Bolts & Thrust Arm Bushings (Possible DIY)

[johnand]

Originally Posted by Glyn M Ruck John, I'll look into this issue because the 204's are also suffering castor bush deterioration at low mileage. I've just fitted new wheels & tyres to my car. While she was on the wheel alignment unit I had a good look at the so called improved bushes fitted to my car & much to my surprise they are perfect thus far. BTW - I'm interested in your intended spacers at the back only & your experience. What is crazy, is that was the 2nd time they replaced the caster bushings on my car. They replaced just the bushings with 203-333-10-14 at 35910 miles from the original complaint of the popping in steering visit. Then when I took it in the final time for the popping at 49688 miles, they state "replaced torque strut arms 204-330-44-11, bearings 204-333-10-14, steering rack 203-460-53-00, test drive, popping noise no longer present." So, I don't know for sure if the bushings were bad again or not, and why replace the arm too?

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[splinter]

Originally Posted by Glyn M Ruck

..I'll look into this issue because the 204's are also suffering castor bush deterioration at low mileage. I've just fitted new wheels & tyres to my car. While she was on the wheel alignment unit I had a good look at the so called improved bushes fitted to my car & much to my surprise they are perfect thus far..

Curious to learn the PN used during your caster/torque arm bushing warranty replacement.

Awaiting installation of 211-333-11-14s. The 211 prefix initially threw me a curve, but they’re shown as the most recent superseded hardware. Cross-references to the CLK63 Black Series too :D.
From the ‘while I’m in there department,’ also be replacing the camber/cross arms’ bushings with 203-333-09-14s. Both bushings have exactly the same OD/ID/OA dimensions. Likely only their designed-in durometer/flexibility differs.

They're still sitting atop the workbench so it's not too late to switch 'em.

If the SA guys have knowledge of - or access to - 'better' parts, would you please hook us up?

Originally Posted by johnand

What is crazy, is that was the 2nd time they replaced the caster bushings on my car. They replaced just the bushings with 203-333-10-14 at 35910 miles from the original complaint of the popping in steering visit. Then when I took it in the final time for the popping at 49688 miles, they state "replaced torque strut arms 204-330-44-11, bearings 204-333-10-14, steering rack 203-460-53-00, test drive, popping noise no longer present." So, I don't know for sure if the bushings were bad again or not, and why replace the arm too?

Surprising number of chassis parts supposedly interchange between the W203 and W204.
So much for MB’s “all new” marketing campaign.

A guess is that your caster/torque arm was replaced due to excessive play in its ball joint.
Still jealous of that new rack. :)

[Glyn M Ruck]

[QUOTE=splinter;3870100]Curious to learn the PN used during your caster/torque arm bushing warranty replacement.

Awaiting installation of 211-333-11-14s. The 211 prefix initially threw me a curve, but they’re shown as the most recent superseded hardware. Cross-references to the CLK63 Black Series too .
From the ‘while I’m in there department,’ also be replacing the camber/cross arms’ bushings with 203-333-09-14s. Both bushings have exactly the same OD/ID/OA dimensions. Likely only their designed-in durometer/flexibility differs.

They're still sitting atop the workbench so it's not too late to switch 'em.

If the SA guys have knowledge of - or access to - 'better' parts, would you please hook us up?
QUOTE]

John - Ahem! I don't keep things nicely filed on work done to my car. Been nothing anyway. I will find that P/N for you though. I've posted it before. If I remember correctly the P/N had not changed from original & I was fed some bull about running changes with no P/N change. Don't know what to believe. What I do no is that the bushes were softened & redesigned at the facelift. I doubt that SA has parts the US can't get hold of unless it is locally produced.

http://www.mbworld.org/forums/attach...on-changes.pdf

[Glyn M Ruck]

John - Part No - MA 203 333 10 14 Bearing - is what is fitted to my car. Found it. I knew I had posted it for Carlos. It might well be that the 22% softer bush is less inclined to crack. I posted the original pdf to FrankW's monster thread when he was having front end troubles Greater compliance will not be good for handling but might be more durable & cure some of the vibration transfer issues that earlier cars had.

I think the change was more a comfort & NVH driven thing

[splinter]

Originally Posted by Glyn M Ruck

..I don't keep things nicely filed on work done..

Thank you, Mr. Ruck. Seriously.

According to its VMI, the PO had the 203-333-10-14 bushes/bushings/bearings installed under warranty.
Fit the same (then-specified) part again not long after we brought it home three and a half years ago. Failed again in less than 30,000 miles. Don’t know if it’s because of the Mrs. bounding over kerbs and through potholes during her daily commute or from me enjoying durability testing whilst running it about on the weekends?

MB’s NA EPC has since the specified the C32/55 torque arm (it’s the same part across the entire W203 lineup – excluding 4MATIC) bushing to be the aforementioned 211-333-11-14. Less concerned with NVH - ‘cept for the dreaded clunks – than relatively proper caster, camber and toe control from our MacPherson suspension. Disassembling the works mañana. Fresh hardware all ‘round should help to get it through 2010. If they serve their purpose and strike an acceptable compromise, it’s only fair that the ‘speed secret’ be shared. Update in due course.

Can only imagine that when you oversaw a staff of thousands during your tenure at that hugely-successful multinational corporation, their record keeping was an important facet of the repertoire. :p:

[Glyn M Ruck]

Originally Posted by splinter

Can only imagine that when you oversaw a staff of thousands during your tenure at that hugely-successful multinational corporation, their record keeping was an important facet of the repertoire.

Yes indeed, at the expense of my own - generally I had others to do it for me at the old job. You made me embarrased so last night I put my minimal car stuff in a file 3 services - 2 bearings - one tranny plug washer, 2 sets of tyres, 1 set front brake pads, BF flush, new wheels. 60,000 Km service in 3200 Kms time. Remember this car's mileage is low because for the first years of it's life I was out of the country most of the time.

Seeing it's "air the dirty washing time" - Every fuel purchase slip to date is "filed" in the lower bin of the center armrest with my driver's license

[splinter]

Replaced the camber and torque arms’ OE mounting hardware with MB’s 220-333-01-71 “Eccentric Pin Kit” during the course of replacing their worn bushings.



Our bushings have nubs cast into their inner mounts to facilitate modest camber and caster adjustments.
The original bolts will engage only through the centermost opening.





Although their range is strictly limited, they’re indeed a worthwhile upgrade to help minimize uneven tire wear
and more fully exploit available traction.








Because of its proximity to the torque arm mounting bolts, the anti-roll bar must first be removed in order to facilitate access – or make adjustments.



To avoid damaging the bushings, it is necessary that one tighten the nut (only!) while securely counter-holding its respective bolt. Note it’s also specified to torque these fasteners when the suspension is loaded to its static ride height. Because fastener failure could cause imminent dismemberment or death to myself and others, I’ve taken the liberty of verifying their torque and well being several times since initial installation. You should too.

Toe is invariably altered whenever adjusting caster and camber. A proper alignment is mandatory afterward.
Used my trusty camber gauge and the string method to get things tantalizingly close to ideal.
Probably best we're spared those gory details for another thread.

[mleskovar]

The inside of your rims are too clean. In fact everything is too clean. I'm jealous.

[Glyn M Ruck]

splinter - it's looking good under there. Nice refresher on the fluted 3 way bolts. The buggers now charge SAR 1000 - US$ 133 for those 4 X bolts in SA. I see that the outer face of the rubber moulding in the new bush has changed from what is fitted to my car. So this is now the 204 bush kit?

Good reminder about torque - when I fitted my new wheels/tyres I had to remind the alignment guys to torque - they just wanted to put a power bar on the nuts & do them up f--king tight! - Also found the dealer had put the 3 way bolts back in the wrong location when changing my castor bushes. Idiots! I had the bolt kit fitted very early in my car's life. About 15,000 Km when I threw off the rubbish Conti tyres.

She must feel good after this tighten up of tolerances?

[viku_st]

Nice write up SPLINTER,
Can you tell me how did you pull the bushings out? and put it back?
I need to change the strut arm bushings only. did you freeze them?(I have read somewhere that we are supposed to keep them overnight in the fridge before install them)
Thank you!

[splinter]

Originally Posted by Glyn M Ruck

..The buggers now charge SAR 1000 - US$ 133 for those 4 X bolts in SA. I see that the outer face of the rubber moulding in the new bush has changed from what is fitted to my car. So this is now the 204 bush kit?

They’re ~$10 each in the States - thought that was rather steep for a simple bolt.
Perhaps I’ll smuggle a steamer trunk full of them in on my next visit.

Upon disassembly, the ball joints in the camber arms were found to have excessive play. Sourced new 204-330-19-11 (LH) & 204-330-20-11 (RH) arms. Only then were their 203-333-09-14 bushings installed. Appeared to be virtually identical to the 203-333-03-14 they replaced.

Renewing the torque arm bushings with EPC-specified 211-333-11-14 [for C32/55, however they’re retrofitable to any non-4Matic W203] hardware can be deemed a successful upgrade IMHO. Seeing how they’re also OE fitment on the heavier and more powerful E,CLS and SL chassis variants gives hope to improved durability.

Suspect they’re also somewhat less flaccid than former iterations.
Because mine had died long ago, a before and after NVH comparison cannot accurately be made.



Does feel years younger and more stable though.

Originally Posted by viku_st

Can you tell me how did you pull the bushings out? and put it back?
I need to change the strut arm bushings only. did you freeze them?(I have read somewhere that we are supposed to keep them overnight in the fridge before install them)
Thank you!

Asked a friend who owns the neighborhood Michelin store to press the bushings.
Likely any well-equipped shop can handle the task for you.

Saved a fair chunk on labor by supplying him the arms having already been removed.
Only minor obstacle was separating the ball joints from the steering knuckle.

Bought an off-Broadway puller in lieu of MB’s 171-589-00-33-00 tool.
Worked perfectly.

[Glyn M Ruck]

Originally Posted by splinter

They’re ~$10 each in the States - thought that was rather steep for a simple bolt.
Perhaps I’ll smuggle a steamer trunk full of them in on my next visit.

Upon disassembly, the ball joints in the camber arms were found to have excessive play. Sourced new 204-330-19-11 (LH) & 204-330-20-11 (RH) arms. Only then were their 203-333-09-14 bushings installed. Appeared to be virtually identical to the 203-333-03-14 they replaced.

Renewing the torque arm bushings with EPC-specified 211-333-11-14 [for C32/55, however they’re retrofitable to any non-4Matic W203] hardware can be deemed a successful upgrade IMHO. Seeing how they’re also OE fitment on the heavier and more powerful E,CLS and SL chassis variants gives hope to improved durability.

Suspect they’re also somewhat less flaccid than former iterations.
Because mine had died long ago, a before and after NVH comparison cannot accurately be made.



Does feel years younger and more stable though.




Asked a friend who owns the neighborhood Michelin store to press the bushings.
Likely any well-equipped shop can handle the task for you.

Saved a fair chunk on labor by supplying him the arms having already been removed.
Only minor obstacle was separating the ball joints from the steering knuckle.

Bought an off-Broadway puller in lieu of MB’s 171-589-00-33-00 tool.
Worked perfectly.

Tks

[aolsen]

I just replaced the front upper control arms, and will be changing out the rear control arm bushings. How do we know if we need a camber kit (?), or the bolts ( part # 0003300018) ? Or would I be able to get an alignment without any additional parts/bolts needed?

Thanks!

[Glyn M Ruck]

You only need the fluted 3 position bolts if you can't get the alignment in spec without them. I fitted them to my car at the first alignment because we were borderline & I think Benz should fit them standard - cheap buggers.

[02AMG]

I reviewed the W203 torque arm R&R.pdf file and was curious if anyone can explain to me the stage 2 torque specification for the Front axle shock absorber. There is a funny symbol there instead of "Nm" and then 90. Does it mean to rotate the torque wrench 90 degrees and re-torque to the same spec as in stage 1?

[johnand]

Originally Posted by 02AMG

I reviewed the W203 torque arm R&R.pdf file and was curious if anyone can explain to me the stage 2 torque specification for the Front axle shock absorber. There is a funny symbol there instead of "Nm" and then 90. Does it mean to rotate the torque wrench 90 degrees and re-torque to the same spec as in stage 1?

Torque to the spec in Nm, then tighten an additional 90°.

[FrankW]

i still have yet to install my camber/caster bolts. LOL

[maverik259]

since so many p/n are being thrown around I want to be clear...which p/n are exactly the bolts needed to adjust camber/caster?? the 00003 one or the 230 one

[johnand]

Originally Posted by maverik259

since so many p/n are being thrown around I want to be clear...which p/n are exactly the bolts needed to adjust camber/caster?? the 00003 one or the 230 one

Well, I just ordered the 2203330171, that Splinter posted the part number for and all I got was the bolts and not the kit with washers and nut. So, I suspect the correct part number is 0003300108, the part number pictured in Glyn's post.

[Glyn M Ruck]

Oh crap! Yes in SA you can buy only the bolts or the kit. I never even gave it a thought to mention it. Sorry!

[johnand]

Originally Posted by Glyn M Ruck

Oh crap! Yes in SA you can buy only the bolts or the kit. I never even gave it a thought to mention it. Sorry!

Not your fault Glyn it is all John's (Splinter) fault Actually it is my fault for not checking against EPC. Just wanted to clarify for others viewing this thread in the future.

Hoping to fix my front end noise and do a REAL alignment myself. Just getting all the bits together.

[mleskovar]

Make sure you tighten the bolts under load....that is off the jack/stands/lift and with the tires on the ground.

[splinter]

Originally Posted by mleskovar

Make sure you tighten the bolts under load....that is off the jack/stands/lift and with the tires on the ground.

Sound advice as always from mleskovar; he’s absolutely correct.

Used to be pdf attachments showing proper R&R workshop procedures in this thread. They’ve since disappeared. :nix:

[splinter]

Originally Posted by johnand

Not your fault Glyn it is all John's (Splinter) fault Actually it is my fault for not checking against EPC. Just wanted to clarify for others viewing this thread in the future.

Hoping to fix my front end noise and do a REAL alignment myself. Just getting all the bits together.

The correct part number for the complete kit is indeed 000 330 00 18. I regret the error.

Rang my wholesaler to order the 220 333 01 71 bolts as seen in EPC.
This episode certainly won’t be the last time he’s proven his worth by covering for my shortsightedness.
John, if I’ve left you in a jam for weekend chassis work, I’ll overnight four complete NIB spares up your way gratis.

Never mind the requisition list and invoice, here’s their packaging:

[johnand]

Originally Posted by mleskovar

Make sure you tighten the bolts under load....that is off the jack/stands/lift and with the tires on the ground.

Very sound advise. The WIS documents highlight that step, so it is important to keep from herniating the bushings. That is the case with many vehicles, so it is a habit I have already formed.

Originally Posted by splinter

The correct part number for the complete kit is indeed 000 330 00 18. I regret the error.

Rang my wholesaler to order the 220 333 01 71 bolts as seen in EPC.
This episode certainly won’t be the last time he’s proven his worth by covering for my shortsightedness.
John, if I’ve left you in a jam for weekend chassis work, I’ll overnight four complete NIB spares up your way gratis.

Never mind the requisition list and invoice, here’s their packaging:

John, no problem, I am not working on it this weekend. I really appreciate the offer, but it was really my fault. I have a full STAR system with WIS and EPC.net, so I have no excuse.

Still have a few things to get before I tear into it. Washers and nuts for the bolts are already on the way. I am trying to either obtain or make a proper spreader bar for the alignment. Not sure if it is worth the expense and trouble, but I am a perfectionist, so I am sure I will have one, one way or another.