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Old 02-05-2011, 02:54 AM   #1
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Engine readiness code help

I've done a bunch of research, have taken apart the MAF to clean (http://www.mbworld.org/forums/c-clas...placement.html) and have completed generic and Mercedes specific drive cycles but still have questions. After scanning w/the OBDII, my readings are the following.

Misfire Monitor - OK
Fuel System Mon - OK
Comp Component - OK
Catalyst Mon - inc
Evap System Mon - inc
Secondary Air System Mon - inc

Oxygen Sens Mon - OK
Oxygen Sens Htr - OK

My questions obviously concern the inc (incomplete items).

1. How do I get the bold items ready? Are there particular drive cycles that correspond to each? Please correct me if I'm wrong, but to get the Cat Mon ready, I'm supposed to drive 48-54mph for 3 minutes twice. To clear the EVAP aren't I supposed to idle the car for 20 minutes twice w/10 seconds of wait time or drive time in between? I have no idea about the Sec Air System Mon. Suggestions?

2. Since the last two items are OK, does that mean that my O2 sensors are fine? Or is that not necessarily true and that the O2 sensors can still be faulty and spit out codes while still maintaining an OK status for the Oxygen Sens Mon and Oxyten Sens Htr?

3. Where is bank 1 sensor one on my w203 2005 c230 Kompressor sedan inline 4? Precat (above the cat), I assume? I understand there are only two O2 sensors on the i4 version of the w203, precat and postcat. http://www.mbworld.org/forums/c-clas...er-m271-2.html Please confirm.

4. I'm basically trying to pass smog and only have until the end of the month.


BACKGROUND INFO THAT MIGHT BE RELEVANT:
Although I don't see the codes anymore, the most recent codes that have come up resulting in a CEL is:

P0420
P0133
P0171

I don't know if it matters, but I have had my ECU flashed prior to installing a Kleemann header. The first and last codes seem to happen frequently with this particular header w/the following possible solutions:

1. Confirm spacer (how does this look like?) is on the bottom downstream O2 sensor.
2. Replace upstream O2 sensor w/Bosch part number (not 16272 b/c cable is too short: http://www.mbworld.org/forums/c-clas...ompressor.html) 16268 or 17161? I'm getting conflicting recommendations in my research.
3. Replace the cat all together.

Is swapping out the Kleeman header for the stock one going to fix this? Or should I change out the O2 sensors? I've read lots of people replacing their MAF's altogether w/o any luck. The codes come back. I'm trying to narrow down the exact issue before throwing parts on the car and spending a grip of money. Any help would be awesome - preferably by the end of the month before my smog is due. Thanks.
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Last edited by casper_c230; 02-05-2011 at 04:03 AM.
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Old 02-05-2011, 09:54 AM   #2
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You must've RESET/ERASED codes recently (with the use of OBD-II code reader). After the RESET, car has to go thru several drive cycles before the above mentioned items are ready. Just keep driving few days; unless something is wrong with those components, everything should be ready in few days.
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Old 02-07-2011, 02:39 AM   #3
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Yes, I did. I took a 100 mile freeway ride today and my codes have successfully reached the ready status except for the EVAP SYS. Keeping fingers crossed. Just wanted to report back in case anyone cares.

Do I need to pass all sections to pass smog in California?

Last edited by casper_c230; 02-07-2011 at 03:02 AM.
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Old 02-07-2011, 02:58 AM   #4
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You might want to check the seal on the gas cap if the evap sys trouble continues, or the CEL light comes back.
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Old 02-07-2011, 03:11 AM   #5
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Ahhh, I had never thought of that. Any other things I should check? I read that some cars never get the EVAP code okayed like the 1997 Toyota Tercel and Paseo. Does ours?
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Old 02-09-2011, 04:30 PM   #6
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Well, the P0133 code came up again today. So I guess I'll be replacing the upstream o2 sensor. Which one do I buy? I've looked around and get that it should be the heated one, but o one specifically said 2-wire or 4-wire. There's also a 5-wire one. Please take a look at my o2 questions in the original post. Thanks.

Last edited by casper_c230; 02-09-2011 at 04:40 PM.
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Old 02-09-2011, 04:49 PM   #7
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In my experience, EVAP is the most difficult readiness monitor to set. Here's my advice- Go for a drive on the highway and set your cruise control for whatever speed you want- do some accel/decel using the cruise control stalk several times. The purge system is typically only activated under high-vaccum conditions in the intake manifold, so doing some VERY light acceleration at very small throttle openings will usually help set EVAP. FWIW, I've seen cars take as long as 1500 miles to set all readiness monitors, so it could just take some more miles driving in different load conditions.
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Old 02-09-2011, 04:53 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by casper_c230 View Post
Well, the P0133 code came up again today. So I guess I'll be replacing the upstream o2 sensor. Which one do I buy? I've looked around and get that it should be the heated one, but o one specifically said 2-wire or 4-wire. There's also a 5-wire one. Please take a look at my o2 questions in the original post. Thanks.
Yours is a 4-wire heated O2 sensor. You can always call your dealer and get the part number, then take that to the part store for reference to be sure you're getting the correct sensor.
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Old 02-15-2011, 08:42 PM   #9
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Nope, it's a 5-wire: red, black, white, yellow, grey. This first pic was taken directly from the bottom of the engine bay. The length was perfect. It's the Bosch 17161 model.

Other related information here:
http://www.mbworld.org/forums/c-clas...ompressor.html

http://www.mbworld.org/forums/c-clas...ml#post4520568

P.S. The Evap Monitors is ready. Too bad the O2 sensor code came up. Now I have to start the drive cycle all over again. At least I know now though that all the readiness codes will eventually get to the OK status on my car.

UPDATE: After resetting the codes just this afternoon, I've only driven 30 miles and all readiness codes have the ok status with the exception of Catalyst Mon and Seconary Air Sys Mon. Yes, that means Evap Mon is OK! This means that the 20 min idle is not required to make the Evap Mon to the OK status. This is very good news. I can't imagine how much gas I wasted doing that idling time 4x! Ugh. My best guess is that the 75% full tank is definitely required. I'm not sure what else I did to make it OK. Wish I knew.
Attached Thumbnails
Engine readiness code help-0215011117b.jpg   Engine readiness code help-0215011146b.jpg  

Last edited by casper_c230; 02-16-2011 at 01:01 AM.
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Old 02-19-2011, 06:34 PM   #10
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MORE UPDATES:
1. As of last night when I checked again with the scanner, the Secondary Air Sys mon is OK. I'm still awaiting the Catalyst Mon. It's still INC (incomplete).

2. Rockauto shows the upstream o2 sensor as having 5-wires and the downstream as having 4-wires. I'm assuming that's why Cory may have been confused. They're not the same. The M271 I suspect has one of each. I'm not definite on this information b/c I didn't visually verify how many wires on the downstream o2 sensor. This is just what Rockauto happens to show. I trust them enough since they take responsibility and follow the correct course of action if they find that they're website is wrong leading to them into sending an incompatible part (it's happened to me before when they sold me an incorrect Akebono brake pad set that didn't fit).

Last edited by casper_c230; 02-19-2011 at 06:37 PM.
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Old 03-01-2011, 01:01 PM   #11
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I passed smog! So happy. I thought I'd help conclude this thread by sharing what I did to set the Catalyst Monitor. The following steps could be total coincidence and have absolutely nothing to do with helping me set the code to OK status, but I thought I'd post it anyone in case someone needs a last resort. I literally passed smog 2 days before it was due! To avoid late fees, registration can be paid ahead of time so you have additional time for smog but both need to still be done before your sticker expires. You can still get cited for not having an up to date sticker.

I had been driving for almost two weeks covering hundreds of miles. Each evening I'd scan the system only to see disappointment on my OBDII reader.

Again, the following steps could be pure coincidence or perhaps a combination of these helped contribute to okaying my Catalyst Mon. Totally not sure.

1. Warmed up engine w/all accessories off including headlights (not sure that matters)
2. Drove at 55 mph for 10 minutes.
3. Slowed to a complete stop (it helps to be going up hill so you slow quicker and cars behind you aren't wondering WTF).
4. Pulled over to the shoulder in D to idle for 2 minutes.
5. Drove at 65 mph for 10 minutes.

That was pretty much it. I think it has something to do with driving steadily at highway speeds for awhile, like 10 min. I'm fairly certain the Catalyst Mon tests when the car is moving. Don't try idling for 20 minutes thinking it will help.

So where can you do this? Sunday morning at 7:00am down the 280 freeway (if you're in the Bay Area). Think Saturday might work? Nope, there's actually plenty of people out early morning on Saturday. Don't feel like waking up to go do your drive cycle at 7am on a Sunday? Well, neither does anyone else. That's why you have to do it. There's few people at 3:30am also, but it just seems more dangerous and you have to have your headlights on. The key is to slow to 0 (if you choose to try it and think that it helps) on an incline. If you do it downhill, you'll never stop. If you do it on a flat, it will take forever and by the time you're at slow speeds, cars will be up on your butt. Do it uphill and you'll be in good shape.

Good luck.

Last edited by casper_c230; 03-01-2011 at 01:04 PM.
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Old 02-18-2012, 11:37 AM   #12
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I can attest to this method.

Did almost the same thing.

1. 60mph constant 10 min
2. 2 min idle in D
3. 65mph constant in 5 min

IM status on obd2 scanner all clear!

Thanks again!

Quote:
Originally Posted by casper_c230 View Post
I passed smog! So happy. I thought I'd help conclude this thread by sharing what I did to set the Catalyst Monitor. The following steps could be total coincidence and have absolutely nothing to do with helping me set the code to OK status, but I thought I'd post it anyone in case someone needs a last resort. I literally passed smog 2 days before it was due! To avoid late fees, registration can be paid ahead of time so you have additional time for smog but both need to still be done before your sticker expires. You can still get cited for not having an up to date sticker.

I had been driving for almost two weeks covering hundreds of miles. Each evening I'd scan the system only to see disappointment on my OBDII reader.

Again, the following steps could be pure coincidence or perhaps a combination of these helped contribute to okaying my Catalyst Mon. Totally not sure.

1. Warmed up engine w/all accessories off including headlights (not sure that matters)
2. Drove at 55 mph for 10 minutes.
3. Slowed to a complete stop (it helps to be going up hill so you slow quicker and cars behind you aren't wondering WTF).
4. Pulled over to the shoulder in D to idle for 2 minutes.
5. Drove at 65 mph for 10 minutes.

That was pretty much it. I think it has something to do with driving steadily at highway speeds for awhile, like 10 min. I'm fairly certain the Catalyst Mon tests when the car is moving. Don't try idling for 20 minutes thinking it will help.

So where can you do this? Sunday morning at 7:00am down the 280 freeway (if you're in the Bay Area). Think Saturday might work? Nope, there's actually plenty of people out early morning on Saturday. Don't feel like waking up to go do your drive cycle at 7am on a Sunday? Well, neither does anyone else. That's why you have to do it. There's few people at 3:30am also, but it just seems more dangerous and you have to have your headlights on. The key is to slow to 0 (if you choose to try it and think that it helps) on an incline. If you do it downhill, you'll never stop. If you do it on a flat, it will take forever and by the time you're at slow speeds, cars will be up on your butt. Do it uphill and you'll be in good shape.

Good luck.
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Old 03-05-2012, 03:59 PM   #13
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ok so i have the same problem but when it warms up theres a knock, just wondering what that could be? plugs, wires and coil packs have been changed
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Old 03-05-2012, 03:59 PM
 
 
 
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c280, c320, cat, code, codes, engine, evap, mercedes, mon, problem, readiness, ready, setting, smog, system



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