Wondering how long my Turbo will last on my 2017 E300 2.0 (w213)
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Wondering how long my Turbo will last on my 2017 E300 2.0 (w213)
How long will my Turbo last on my 2017 E300 2.0 (w213)??
If if never step on it hard doesn't that mean it will spin less or not as fast making it last longer, and I never drive it past 70 MPH.
Love if I never changed this turbo and it last me for 300k miles!
Miss my 2012 E350 (w212) with 302 Horse power and no turbo.
Not sure why Benz went with this small turbo engine. Less horse power and not that much better on gas!
If if never step on it hard doesn't that mean it will spin less or not as fast making it last longer, and I never drive it past 70 MPH.
Love if I never changed this turbo and it last me for 300k miles!
Miss my 2012 E350 (w212) with 302 Horse power and no turbo.
Not sure why Benz went with this small turbo engine. Less horse power and not that much better on gas!
Last edited by Roman living; Sep 9, 2024 at 07:26 PM.
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From: Maryland
2015 SL400 (M276 Turbo), 2014 C350 Sport (M276 NA), 2004 SL500 (M113), 2004 Audi TT225 (BEA)
If you change your oil often (every 3000-5000 miles) with a proper oil, it should last as long as the engine. I have a 2004 Audi TT 225 1.8T that has been chipped since about 25,000 miles. It now has over 250,000 miles with the same K04 turbo. The oil has been changed every 5000 miles or less.
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COOL! Bet its fast!
So not stepping on the pedal will make the turbo spin less or slower- making it last longer? and I never drive past 70!?
I do change the oil every 5k, mobile 1 full synthetic and premium gas.
So not stepping on the pedal will make the turbo spin less or slower- making it last longer? and I never drive past 70!?
I do change the oil every 5k, mobile 1 full synthetic and premium gas.
Last edited by Roman living; Sep 9, 2024 at 07:33 PM.
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From: Maryland
2015 SL400 (M276 Turbo), 2014 C350 Sport (M276 NA), 2004 SL500 (M113), 2004 Audi TT225 (BEA)
Turbos have boost pressure regulated by the diverter valve. They will only boost so high and then the diverter valve releases some of the pressure. There is also a wastegate for off-throttle relief. The proper design will have the diverter valve circulating the excess air back into the intake but after the MAF/MAP. The wastegate relieves air into the exhaust. Understanding that, "stepping on the pedal" will not significantly shorten the turbo's life. What will shorten a turbo's life is long oil change intervals, running the car hard and immediately shutting off the engine, and/or a failure of the diverter valve or wastegate.
The M256 3.0 V6 bi-turbo (and probably others) have a separate cooling system and an electric water pump just for the turbo that will continue to circulate coolant after the car turns off. Even so, I would avoid running the car hard and immediately turn it off. Let it cool down a little first.
The M256 3.0 V6 bi-turbo (and probably others) have a separate cooling system and an electric water pump just for the turbo that will continue to circulate coolant after the car turns off. Even so, I would avoid running the car hard and immediately turn it off. Let it cool down a little first.
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Thank you for that lesson, learned a lot!! :-)
But what if I don't run it hard, do I still have to let it idle for a minute before shutting it down?
In my days, in the 80's and 90's we were told you should wait a minute before taking off and wait a minute before tuning of the car to preserve the turbo so it will last longer, is this still true today with the 2017 e300 2.0 w213 turbo? :-)
But what if I don't run it hard, do I still have to let it idle for a minute before shutting it down?
In my days, in the 80's and 90's we were told you should wait a minute before taking off and wait a minute before tuning of the car to preserve the turbo so it will last longer, is this still true today with the 2017 e300 2.0 w213 turbo? :-)
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2008 E350, 2012 ML350, 2014 E350, 2015 ML350
Advice for turbo engines:
1- frequent oil changes. Turbo are extra hot, turbine side specially
2- Always wait for operating temperature before stepping on it. Otherwise, due to thermal expansion differences between casing and turbine the turbine WILL touch the casing -> Early dead.
3- Always let the engine idle a bit and "fresh oil" run through before letting extra hot oil sits in the bearing area burning.
4- use thicker oil on the cold spec. That is, 5W/10W instead of 0W.
1- frequent oil changes. Turbo are extra hot, turbine side specially
2- Always wait for operating temperature before stepping on it. Otherwise, due to thermal expansion differences between casing and turbine the turbine WILL touch the casing -> Early dead.
3- Always let the engine idle a bit and "fresh oil" run through before letting extra hot oil sits in the bearing area burning.
4- use thicker oil on the cold spec. That is, 5W/10W instead of 0W.
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And I would never rev a cold engine, very bad!!! :-)
I use Mobile 1 full synthetic oil is that ok for my turbo?
Last edited by Roman living; Sep 10, 2024 at 10:44 AM.
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SO like it my days from the 80's and 90's almost the same thing, don't take off to fast and don't shut it down right away which I wont even if I don't run it hard!
And I would never rev a cold engine, very bad!!! :-)
I use Mobile 1 full synthetic oil is that ok for my turbo?
And I would never rev a cold engine, very bad!!! :-)
I use Mobile 1 full synthetic oil is that ok for my turbo?
I know certain people swear by mobil 1 and is perfectly fine and personal preference after all but I just want to say there are better options out there like Motul and Pennzoil.
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2008 E350, 2012 ML350, 2014 E350, 2015 ML350
We moved 4 vehicles from Mobil 0W40 to MOTUL 5W40. I personally would not return to M1 0W40 for these cars, but perhaps other vehicles.
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2008 E350, 2012 ML350, 2014 E350, 2015 ML350
1 - Miss a 1 qt around 8K miles after service
2 - Burnt oil smell in the garage after a spirited drive, let us say 110+mph, with an exhaust crackling sound in the garage after parking.
My Indy suggested moving to MOTUL 5W40, or LiquidMolly 0W40. Since @S-Prihadi had already tested LM on his work, and nothing conclusive/exciting to switch I settled for Motul. Both (1) and (2) have disappeared (except for the hot exhaust sound
). As MS hinted, I also changed to 5K miles service, but I just do not want narrow down the exact details, so I stayed with MOTUL 5W40 which the Indy was already doing for my sister's W211 anyway.I unplugged after the switch to MOTUL 5W40, and what can I say. MB robbed me @85K miles forcing me to drive with an incapacitated vehicle. No more harsh downshifting, and no more lagging when starting a climb from rest. Pedal down, and smooth continuous shifting to the next stop.
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I was using M1 0W40 and my experience was that:
1 - Miss a 1 qt around 8K miles after service
2 - Burnt oil smell in the garage after a spirited drive, let us say 110+mph, with an exhaust crackling sound in the garage after parking.
My Indy suggested moving to MOTUL 5W40, or LiquidMolly 0W40. Since @S-Prihadi had already tested LM on his work, and nothing conclusive/exciting to switch I settled for Motul. Both (1) and (2) have disappeared (except for the hot exhaust sound). As MS hinted, I also changed to 5K miles service, but I just do not want narrow down the exact details, so I stayed with MOTUL 5W40 which the Indy was already doing for my sister's W211 anyway.
I unplugged after the switch to MOTUL 5W40, and what can I say. MB robbed me @85K miles forcing me to drive with an incapacitated vehicle. No more harsh downshifting, and no more lagging when starting a climb from rest. Pedal down, and smooth continuous shifting to the next stop.
1 - Miss a 1 qt around 8K miles after service
2 - Burnt oil smell in the garage after a spirited drive, let us say 110+mph, with an exhaust crackling sound in the garage after parking.
My Indy suggested moving to MOTUL 5W40, or LiquidMolly 0W40. Since @S-Prihadi had already tested LM on his work, and nothing conclusive/exciting to switch I settled for Motul. Both (1) and (2) have disappeared (except for the hot exhaust sound
). As MS hinted, I also changed to 5K miles service, but I just do not want narrow down the exact details, so I stayed with MOTUL 5W40 which the Indy was already doing for my sister's W211 anyway.I unplugged after the switch to MOTUL 5W40, and what can I say. MB robbed me @85K miles forcing me to drive with an incapacitated vehicle. No more harsh downshifting, and no more lagging when starting a climb from rest. Pedal down, and smooth continuous shifting to the next stop.
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The advice I got from an engineer from a manufacturer of turbochargers for all automakers: "0W is for fuel economy only, if you change from M1 0W40, you can go as high as 10W but no more. We test all our products up to 10W and they will last you longer"
The other advice I got from him was: "be careful with the oil specifications, the specifications are tuned with material/alloys and tolerances of those engines". It is NOT only about oil weight, but rating as well. So far, I think most forum members agree these direct injection engines MUST use SP-rated oil within the MB specs.
The other advice I got from him was: "be careful with the oil specifications, the specifications are tuned with material/alloys and tolerances of those engines". It is NOT only about oil weight, but rating as well. So far, I think most forum members agree these direct injection engines MUST use SP-rated oil within the MB specs.
MBWorld God!
Joined: Dec 2019
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The advice I got from an engineer from a manufacturer of turbochargers for all automakers: "0W is for fuel economy only, if you change from M1 0W40, you can go as high as 10W but no more. We test all our products up to 10W and they will last you longer"
The other advice I got from him was: "be careful with the oil specifications, the specifications are tuned with material/alloys and tolerances of those engines". It is NOT only about oil weight, but rating as well. So far, I think most forum members agree these direct injection engines MUST use SP-rated oil within the MB specs.
The other advice I got from him was: "be careful with the oil specifications, the specifications are tuned with material/alloys and tolerances of those engines". It is NOT only about oil weight, but rating as well. So far, I think most forum members agree these direct injection engines MUST use SP-rated oil within the MB specs.
Joined: Nov 2016
Posts: 7,847
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From: Maryland
2015 SL400 (M276 Turbo), 2014 C350 Sport (M276 NA), 2004 SL500 (M113), 2004 Audi TT225 (BEA)
Kinda late to respond, but if you stick with Mobil 1, make sure you use the right weight (5W-40) and the European Car formula with an API SP rating. However, as you see from the other responses, Mobil 1 is no longer the favorite. Currently, I am using Pennzoil Platinum Euro 5W-40 which is API SP rated. It is made from natural gas rather than petroleum. Seems to work well in my car.
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Kinda late to respond, but if you stick with Mobil 1, make sure you use the right weight (5W-40) and the European Car formula with an API SP rating. However, as you see from the other responses, Mobil 1 is no longer the favorite. Currently, I am using Pennzoil Platinum Euro 5W-40 which is API SP rated. It is made from natural gas rather than petroleum. Seems to work well in my car.
Wondering if you can answer this post I made, seems no one knows??
https://mbworld.org/forums/e-class-w...r-get-key.html
