mostafaberg

That's good to hear !, i'm kind of relieved that i don't have to do that dreaded oil pan job !, this seems a bit easier !

Do you or anyone know the part for sure ? I found this off a Russian website, part number is A 120 997 03 46, #8 in the diagram.



if that is the part, is this the only thing I need ? also while i'm at it, do you recommend changing any other parts while getting the job done ?

Thanks !

turbonos7

What engine do you have?

mostafaberg

It's a M111.955

turbonos7

Poly V-belt? Cant think of much else.... depending on what you may have to take off to gain access to the pulley and remove it, may be do a drain and fill of the coolant, maybe even replace the thermostat and associated gaskets, seals, housings. Other than that I think you should be ok.

mostafaberg

Update:
Crank seal came in today, was planning to work on it over the weekend, however, the car won't start anymore (see thread) so i might end up spending the weekend fixing that, seems like bad connectors or a faulty ECU , will keep you guys updated when i start working on the seal and post some pics of the procedure !

mostafaberg

Thanks ! V belt is new so that's ok, thinking of doing the harmonic balancer and see if any other pulleys have bad bearings while at it !

mostafaberg

Ok guys i'm starting the job today !
i just had a quick question before i remove the old seal !
will oil gush out if i remove the old seal ? should i empty the oil before doing the job ?
or is it ok to replace the seal with the oil in there ?

thanks !

turbonos7

You should be good with the oil in the pan.

mostafaberg

Thanks for the tip, but i'm not sure i fully understood, do you mean by putting a pan under the crankseal location while working ? or by draining the oil in the pan ?

thanks !

Started by getting the belts off yesterday and ended up suck cause I didn't have the right size socket, getting that today after work to continue job, will keep you guys updated !

Quadcammer

oil does not sit up to the level of the center line of the crank, so you don't need to drain the oil.

turbonos7

+1 The level of the oil inside the engine does not reach up that high otherwise the crank would be immersed in oil the whole time it is rotating and that would be a lot of drag. The crank seal and the rear main are there to keep any oil that is sloshing around during operation from leaking out so, as long as you are sitting level and the engine is not running you wI'll not get any oil coming out. Sorry for being so short earlier. Good luck!

mostafaberg

Updating you guys, i'm about 70% complete with the job !

first thing thanks a lot for the help everyone!

You're absolutely right , matter of fact the front of the car is lifted so i can get under, which will even push any extra oil away !

So here's what i've done till now:

1-Remove the radiator fan (not necessary for everyone, but my breaker bar extension was too long so i had to for clearance !)

2-Killed myself trying to get the pulley bolt off, i'm ashamed of the way i did it, but i had no choice, i had to crank the engine with the breaker bar laying on the garage floor, couple of little cranks and the nut was off.

3-Pulled off the pulley using a hub puller (that thing wouldn't come off any other way, i'm lucky i had a puller laying around !)

4-I'm at this stage now, damn look at that mess !




I had a couple last question before replacing the seal !

A- Does it come off by prying it out with a flat screwdriver ? or is there's something I should know ?

B- I'm worried about reusing the pulley bolt, is it safe to reuse that ? or should i get a new one ?

have a nice day !

Quadcammer

new bolt

mostafaberg

Ordered and waiting for part !, thanks

MiataMan

This is the best tool I've used to remove seals. You slip the edge hook under the inside part of the seal and using leverage, it pulls the seal out smoothly and effortlessly.

turbonos7

That is a mess! Seal puller works great but screwdriver or pliers works fine. You're not going to re-use it so it doesn't matter if you damage the old seal while removing it. As for the bolt... New bolt if you're picky like some of us or unless you rounded it off or damaged it during removal it should still work just as well. Choice is yours! You are going to clean that mess up right? Lol! Good going so far man!

mostafaberg

Hey bro's !

It's been a hard time and i forgot to update the post !

Almost 4 months now and the car has been running happily with no more oil leaks !

i didn't manage to get pictures of the job being done in reverse order, but it's pretty straight forward !

it was just extremely difficult to torque the new bolt since that requires locking the engine some way or another, there's a special tool from MB for that, i totally recommend getting it as you don't want to cause any minor kinks in your harmonic balancer, trust me

I ended up building my own tool to hold it in place by using metal parts that i had around, i'm not gonna explain why cause i don't want to encourage anyone to go the DIY route, get the proper tool instead, it'll save you a lot of pain.

thanks for the help guys, it's been a bumpy ride

going to prepare the car to get some minor rust spots removed, besides that, it's going perfect !