shiner1

I have a 06 C230 with a torn torque strut bushing and torn front sway bar boot. I've gone thru my MB book and plenty of websites but can't figure out if the torque strut is the upper control arm or lower?

I plan to replace it myself and have done minor maintenance (brakes, thermostat) to the vehicle fairly easily. Is replacing the control arm and sway bar boot something I can do on my own and should I replace anything else while I'm in there?

Finally, is any product better than the other? I plan on using Autozone parts (I think they are duralast)

Any guidance would be much appreciated.

Dave D

samaritrey

I believe torque strut is upper control arm but if you are going to DIY you must have the means to take a look for yourself. Might as well check everything as well as the front end is a known weak point on the W203. Check the inner bushings and on the other end the ball joints of both the upper and lower control arms. (Inner bushings are known to leak out fluid) If one is bad I suspect the others are very close if no already bad.
I would only use OEM/OES quality parts for the control arms because I tried to be cheap and had to do the job a few times and the Upper's are worse IMO as you have clearance issues.

Check out http://www.rmeuropean.com/Part-Numbe...d38NDldYw.aspx and http://www.rmeuropean.com/Part-Numbe...pv4adDTbQ.aspx
LEMFOERDER is the OEM supplier
Whatever you do don't buy KARLYN I will say that FEBI BILSTEIN would probably be okay but as the lemfoerder is the same price as autozone why save money on such a crucial part of your car with an unknown quality part.

Also pick up this http://www.rmeuropean.com/Part-Numbe...8F~rZLpwQ.aspx
This bolt can be inserted in the control arm a few different ways to get alignment perfect as you will need one after doing this job. The car takes four total FYI one in each control arm. They are usually refereed to as crash bolts on here.

What is the Sway bar boot? Are you talking about one of the joints on the sway bar link or the inner bushings that hold the bar onto the car? If you are talking link if one is bad replace the other one to and as with the control arm make sure to get quality parts.

RM is my go to parts store but you can also check out autohausaz and pelicanparts all are very good and all have good pricing that gets you OEM/OES parts cheaper than stupid autozone's unknown quality stuff. Yeah they may have lifetime warranties but you will understand why that doesn't matter if you have to redo the job ever again lol

shiner1

Thanks for the reply. I plan on replacing upper and lower control arms on both sides. The troubleshooting from MB service (ParkPlace MB; Grapevine, TX) says "front sway bar end link boot torn".

I have used autohauz before but will give RM a try with brand you recommend.

I'm also going to change the brake rotors/pads; any suggestions on those? The last sets of rotors/pads I received were from autohauz and didn't seem to last very long.

One last thing, will it be obvious where to put crash bolts? I've worked on all parts of vehicles but have never been brave enough to tackle anything that deals with suspension/alignment. I don't want to make too many stupid mistakes!

Thanks again for the response.

Dave D

samaritrey

Oh doing the upper and lower at the same time is a good idea and using LEMFOERDER should give you many trouble free miles. BTW how many are on the car?
I would price shop all the online retailers and see what gives you the best prices I have used all three i listed and had good results with all of them.
Personally for me I have bought just about every brand of Rotor and liked them all (even the really cheap ones) but will say you can't beat Mercedes Rotors matched with some Akebono pads as the ceramic pads last a very long time so might as well pair a good rotor with it. I have heard good things about ATE, ZIMMERMANN, Balo and personally loved the Bosch rotors I got they had been balanced and were much heavier than whatever brand was on the car. For brake parts I have been buying them from Amazon and have found some really good deals in the open box/damaged box section (amazon warehouse deals) Got a set of centric rotors for $8 each and a set of Bosch rotors for like $15 each. I have also gotten a set of Akebono pads for $28
Don't forget to buy
http://www.rmeuropean.com/Part-Numbe...QHUhX7KrQ.aspx you need one for each rotor you can reuse but i like to do things right
http://www.rmeuropean.com/Part-Numbe...cEjclptHw.aspx
http://www.rmeuropean.com/Part-Numbe...b4NP5PN8g.aspx good stuff to have but you can get cheaper stuff if you like

The crash bolts replace the bolts that go though the round part of the control arm though the sub frame. You will notice that you can put the bolt in a few different ways I would recommend putting them in the very middle and then having a good shop such as Mercedes or a race shop that knows what to do with the bolts do the alignment. Sadly most places don't know what to do with the bolts. I assume your car is not modified so they might be over kill but they are recommended as if you ever need them you have them and they can correct the issue.

I know this is for w211 but check out the 2nd most by Glyn it explains all
https://mbworld.org/forums/w211-amg/...ash-bolts.html Also when tightening them make sure the suspension is loaded or you could damage them.

shiner1

The C230 has 125k miles; I love the engine....very smooth and quick response; we also have a 2013 C250 and the turbo is very slow to kick in. I like the C230 engine better.

At the end of your reply you said to make sure suspension is "loaded"....does that mean weight on wheels? Please clarify.

I also have a 1966 S230 w/ 60,000 miles that is bogging down when accelerating (we've rebuilt the twin carbs twice, think it may be something in distributor cap); you know anything about antique cars or can you direct me to someone who might help?

Take care and thanks for the amazon tip, never knew that area of amazon existed,

DD

samaritrey

This suspension work will probably be its last lol
Yeah I personally didn't like the 250 engine when it came out but I drove a new one and i think they changed something because the power seemed much better. But I will take my dads c350 4matic coupe any day over the 250 lol
Yeah you want some weight on the wheels when you torque I used ramps so i could still get under the car safely.
I do know a little about old cars but mostly MG's and even that is limited sadly I would post in the classic forum and see if anyone can help but i don't know how busy that section is.

Yeah amazon warehouse is awesome but searching for parts can be a pain I usually make a list of pn's (manufacture ones not mercedes) of the brands i like and then just search each one and then you look under used
here is an example
http://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listi...condition=used

Or just use the built in search on amazon to find parts for your car then just go though and see if any of the parts listed have something from amazon warehouse. But make sure you verify PN with manufactures site as sometimes it is wrong thats why i do it first and then i also don't have to go through the crap parts.
Those pads in my example are like half off lol and if you don't like them free return shipping. I assume you have prime membership otherwise it might not be as good of a deal.

shiner1

Hello again,

I have all the parts I need, I think.

Will I need a spring compressor? I looked through the diagram and didn't notice where anything is directly linked to springs.

Thanks,

Dave D

samaritrey

Nope only need a spring compressor if you do front shocks (rear you just need a jack).

VVF

If you haven't yet, I would advise getting a ball joint separator tool as well. Not sure if it is possible to hammer out the joint from the steering knuckle when it's unbolted from the strut.

shiner1

HELP!!!!!!

I have removed the front control arm but have tried for 4 hours removing ball joint knuckle. I have used a pickle fork and several front end tools but the thing won't release!

Any guidance/experiences would be greatly appreciated!

Dave D

VVF

You ideally need something like this tool: 171 589 00 33 00

If you have a pickle fork, do you think there will be space to insert it there if you bolt the steering knuckle back to the strut? Then you have a more rigid structure to brace the ball joint against, so to speak.

Even the tie rod end was there so tight (rust-free car!) I had to hammer it for a good 5 minutes...
Definitely will buy the tool (or its variation) for doing the control arms.

Good luck, shiner!

wvadam

I removed the ball joints from the steering knuckle by loosening the nut enough to cover the threads and hammered it until it popped out. careful not to damage the threads on the stud or it will be difficult to remove the nut completely after.

also if you have access to a small propane torch like the one you use for plumbing for $20, you can heat up the area around the ball joint stud and it will be much easier to remove.

shiner1

Thanks for the responses!

I thought about re-attaching to strut but wasn't sure about the clearance from the top of the knuckle to the strut mount.

Could you please be more specific about the tool; it didn't show up as a hyperlink.

I will also try the propane torch, as well, tomorrow. I'm on my 2nd martini so no more auto work tonight!

One more thing, all the tutorials said remove control arm on chassis first, then ball joint knuckle; would it be better to break ball joint loose before disassembling the other connections?

Thanks again,

Dave D
(wife is from Shiner, TX)!!!

VVF

Sorry, that's a Mercedes part number. https://www.google.com/#q=171+589+00+33+00
You can get cheaper clones online.

I think the order does not really matter. It seems more logical to separate the ball joint first (since we now know it's a little beetch).

I guess there should be some clearance, at least enough to be able to hammer it per wvadam.
You can refer to the other side to check.

Nice bit of info about Shiner TX
Are you now in Texas or just planning to move to this wonderful state? j/k

shiner1

Hello again,

I was able to get one side done today. For anybody attempting this. leave the strut attached, bang out both upper and lower control arm knuckles (have a sturdy bungy cord attached around a lug nut in the hub so it doesn't fall too much). I went and got a 4 lb hammer and it did the trick.

Now, for you experts, I re-attached the new control arms/torque struts/tie rods; however, how do you torque to specs if you have to attach a torx socket along with 21mm to tighten bolt?? (i.e. are there spline free torque wrenches???). When I go to MB service center, I'm going to ask them to align wheels and torque knuckles/tie rods to specs. Any other ideas?

Thanks,

Dave D

VVF

Use a box wrench while counter-holding the stud. When it gets tighter, the coned stud should seat in the knuckle and you should be able to tighten the bolt with a torque wrench without the stud moving. Or just keep tightening the bolt while holding the stud, periodically checking if you are at the requred torque with small rotations of torque wrench.

shiner1

Thanks for the advice; it worked just like you said.....as it got tighter it seated and I was able to torque to specs.

It is complete now; have to go get alignment and see how badly I will be scolded by MB technicians for anything I screwed up!

Finally, if anybody else tries this job, beat the control arm/torque strut knuckles with at least a 4lb hammer and pickle fork before you dis-assemble the strut mounts!

VVF

Nice

Just don't tell those techs you did the job yourself, they might be more honest then

I did left-side tie rod pair, and the car now drives straighter than before! Planing to check the alignment tomorrow. Will see what toe I managed to dial there lol.