alt123

Hi All,
Car is a 2008 W204 C220 CDI Saloon, 5 speed auto.

I got new tyres last week and the dealer replaced the 'diff balancer' under warranty (just looks like a mount behind the rear subframe (which the diff bushes are mounted to)) - stiff component but the bushes were worn so they replaced it.

Noticed an ever so slight pull to the left on my way home, so I decided to get the wheel alignment done locally.

Now since getting it done, when the wheel is straight (at say 100kph) the car is driving slightly to the right. But when I let go of the wheel, within about 100m the car is pulling to the left, so much so that when i'm on the motorway i'd be in the left lane (when initially i'd be in the right lane)

I wonder could someone take a look at the report attached and let me know if things are in spec? Car drove perfectly straight when I bought it 10 months ago and I didn't hit anything since purchasing.

Thanks folks

alt123

Mods this should be in W204 can someone move it please? Thanks

TruTaing

Thread Moved

JPc300

Looks like camber adjustment on the right side is off and so is rear toe adjustments. Although these numbers are off they won't cause a vehicle to pull. Caster will cause a pull and a tire radial pull will cause a pull. If your tires are non directional swap the front side to side, and if it pull the opposite direction you know you have a tire causing a radial pull and not the alignment. Sometimes by swapping them it will stop it from pulling if it's tire related.

centfl-c300spt

Euro cars are set up for performance, and as such won't ever be in perfect alignment. After and Audi and now a MB, I've had this explained to me several times. I recently had my motor mounts, tranny mount, and sway bar links changed. My indy mechanic explained that mounts and bushings get worn out over time and get squishy. Thus, over time the suspension geometry changes and as you get the car maintained, the alignment specs change as well. When parts are replaced, they are stiffer and change the suspension geometry.
As you've had the alignment done and got new tires, I'm assuming they were balanced. I would try what JPc300 said, but also check to see if the part they changed has a matching part ie, left-right or front-back and if it also needs to be changed. In my experience with the dealer, they will only change a part that is leaking, broken, or physically wrong.

K-Mac

Fact is “Full front and rear wheel alignment” is no more! (Whether Mercedes, Audi or BMW)


Mercedes since the mid ‘90 model’s, with the ever increasing speed of vehicle assembly lines there has been no front or rear Camber (or front Caster) adjustment facility fitted OEM


Only current adjustment is front and rear Toe!

To attempt to return vehicle to factory specs to resolve costly premature inner edge tire wear, improve traction, and fix steering pull the only current alternative for Camber and Caster is to fit offset, slotted bolts (for the front only). But these are inaccurate - one only position bolts - offering a minimal .3 of one degree adjustment (3mm / 1/8”).

It’s no wonder many owners continually change tire brands or go from one MB Dealer or alignment shop to another trying to get it right/fix the problem!


We saw the need therefore "to fix it right the first time" by designing, developing, patenting (and re-instating from the 1990's) fully adjustable front (and rear) suspension for virtually every model vehicle Audi to Volvo.

The current K-MAC kits have up to 4 times the adjustment of these one only position offset bolts (both Positive or Negative). And unlike these one position bolts they can be accurately adjusted on car(under load) direct on alignment turntable (no need for labor intensive removal/replacement each time).


Providing ongoing full, precise adjustment of both Camber and Caster settings if altering suspension height, fitting wide profile tires/wheels, curb knock damage or being able to quickly fine tune/change specs on race days (extra Negative/plus track width to go deeper into the corners/lower lap times). With the unique K-MAC patented design only requiring use of a single wrench/no disassembly.

For the rear, similar kits for precise Camber adjustment (with additional Toe to compensate for the new Camber facility). Importantly unlike the alternative rear adjustable Camber control arms available K-MAC kits do not move top of tire outwards - this reducing essential clearance top of tire to outer fender when adjusting to fix premature inner edge tire wear/improve rear traction.


Also instead of spherical bearings as used on control arms which prematurely pound out allowing metal to metal contact. At K-MAC we have developed long life elastomer bushings.


Bonus with the four front and four rear bushes is that they are also designed with twice the load bearing area and replace the highest wearing suspension bushings. And with K-MAC no special tools are required to fit.


Note (Product background re bushings): Majority OEM bushes have air voids to allow 2 axis movement. So control arms can travel through their required arcs without binding, locking up.


Essential with today’s modern designs of “multi-link” arms with different angle mount points!


Yet most “aftermarket” replacement bushes the industry standard is to eliminate these air voids in an attempt to improve both steering response and reduce wheel hop, loss of traction under brake and acceleration.


The opposite is often the case – the elimination of the air voids causes even more severe wheel hop, loss of traction through binding, locking up of arms.


K-MAC bushes – with 50 years now of bush technology are designed without the air voids but where needed with “full 2 axis movement”. Result is power to the ground – maximum traction/acceleration/braking - along with noticeably improved directional control and steering response for highway driving, lane changing.