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I'm a little confused as to how a diverter valve could give any kind of performance gains unless the factory one leaks and can't hold boost. But it seems odd MB would engineer it that way. Are the factory DVs just bad?
It wouldn't be a bad mod as the turbo is so easy to access on these cars.
I'm a little confused as to how a diverter valve could give any kind of performance gains unless the factory one leaks and can't hold boost. But it seems odd MB would engineer it that way. Are the factory DVs just bad?
It wouldn't be a bad mod as the turbo is so easy to access on these cars.
Doesnt really add any power, but it seems to make part throttle acceleration more smooth. I think it just bleeds boost off better than the factory one. Also if you do up the boost beyond stock levels it should hold better as the factory spring is pretty weak.
I'm still trying to figure this car out. I'm coming from VW/Audi where there was a plentiful choice of ECU flashes. DVs were almost a requirement to push boost up in the 21-26 psi range.
As far as smoothing things out I'd love to get "S" mode the default option. Often I'll start out first thing in E, pull out and suddenly feel like I'm getting sucked backwards by a tractor beam instead. As I then mash onto the accelerator the car suddenly lurches forward like it's being shot out of a catapult. I guess everyone knows what I'm talking about?
I'm still trying to figure this car out. I'm coming from VW/Audi where there was a plentiful choice of ECU flashes. DVs were almost a requirement to push boost up in the 21-26 psi range.
As far as smoothing things out I'd love to get "S" mode the default option. Often I'll start out first thing in E, pull out and suddenly feel like I'm getting sucked backwards by a tractor beam instead. As I then mash onto the accelerator the car suddenly lurches forward like it's being shot out of a catapult. I guess everyone knows what I'm talking about?
That is the general feeling of this car Lol! Very inconsistent. Sometimes it seems to pull pretty ok, then the next its flat as a pancake. The computer is constantly altering things. Throttle position, timing, boost ect. I never see 100% throtte logging the tps. Most you get is 79% and the computer lowers that at any given time. Even with the BMS tuner the computer is constantly trying to regulate boost. Sometimes it feels like the car pulls harder in 3rd gear gear than 1st and 2nd.
Transmission isnt much help either with super slow shifts even in "S". I come from the Japanese Mitsubishi turbo 4 cylinder world where adding boost meant power at part and full throttle. Power came easy! This C250 though, part throttle sometime pulls better than full throttle as boost bleeds off when you go WOT. I think the computer is always working hard to make sure this car is never quicker or feels more "peppy" than the C300 or C350 to maintain the HP heirarchy in the line up. ???
Its very interesting that the major difference between the 2014 C300 and C350 HP wise is factory tuning. The C300 is limited so its not as powerful as the C350 which costs more.
Is this at the crank? What was torque? At what psi? Any dyno charts?
Stock unmodified turbo? I wouldn't imagine the tiny stock turbo being able to hold 25psi or long. Peak HP numbers are unchanged? This is all under 4500rpm I'm guessing. What WHP did you see stock? That will give people a better understanding of the improvements.
Also would love to see some acceleration videos! If the C250 doesn't do well 0-60, show 70-90. I would love to buy some go fast parts for this car, but it seems very difficult to get real world evidence of performance gains. Lot's of lovely pictures though.
Thats why I said "If C250 is slow 0-60(MPH) show 70-90(MPH) 70-200(KMH)" Seems simple enough; you do mods to increase power, car accelerates faster, right? Why would I need Mercedes wind tunnel data?
The C250 can perform I'm sure with the right ECU tune and turbo. Just seems silly to me that a car will always be slow 0-60(MPH) no matter what mods you do. Crack the ECU and remove torque limiters, tune it properly, and make some power, times will drop. It's physics!
Sorry, I've been trying to post a response but the system wasn't responding.
As we mentioned in a previous post, this is a hybrid OEM turbo, not stock unmodified. On our test car we got 253 at the crank using a moderate tune, with drivetrain loss this is around 216. Unfortunately the partner who's dynopak we used fell through and did not provide us with the graph so we are actively searching for a new one. We have a customer in Singapore and Poland who have dyno'd their car with the new turbo but they've yet to respond. The powerband did not drop until 5500-6000rpms.
We are working on footage but as there is no empty space nearby to safely do pulls this will take more time, hopefully one of our more enthusiastic customers can provide one.
I think there's a misunderstanding with my comment on the 0-60, my point was that this car wasn't designed or built for 0-60, my references to the MB wind tunnel was to point out that based on their data, its designed for more mid range power. Of course adding certain mods can shave off the 0-60 but it won't be drastic and not as easily as you have put it considering no tuner wants to decrypt the ecu lol.
Our products focus primarily on low to mid range power delivery and overall drivability of the car.
That is the general feeling of this car Lol! Very inconsistent. Sometimes it seems to pull pretty ok, then the next its flat as a pancake. The computer is constantly altering things. Throttle position, timing, boost ect. I never see 100% throtte logging the tps. Most you get is 79% and the computer lowers that at any given time. Even with the BMS tuner the computer is constantly trying to regulate boost. Sometimes it feels like the car pulls harder in 3rd gear gear than 1st and 2nd.
Transmission isnt much help either with super slow shifts even in "S". I come from the Japanese Mitsubishi turbo 4 cylinder world where adding boost meant power at part and full throttle. Power came easy! This C250 though, part throttle sometime pulls better than full throttle as boost bleeds off when you go WOT. I think the computer is always working hard to make sure this car is never quicker or feels more "peppy" than the C300 or C350 to maintain the HP heirarchy in the line up. ???
Its very interesting that the major difference between the 2014 C300 and C350 HP wise is factory tuning. The C300 is limited so its not as powerful as the C350 which costs more.
All very interesting, thanks! That being said I still love this car. My VW had a hell of a lot more power, stage 2+ MKV, but it was much harder to use that power. But it was very consistent at least. Even with all the suspension upgrades I had the C250 handles so much better.
I had a choice of some C300s and a C350 but the option packages were off and I'm not fond of the beige interiors with wood paneling.
I didn't think the C300 was all that much faster given the extra weight and 4WD. And I opted not to have the mechanical complexity as where I live doesn't need 4WD.
Do things improve any with the additional C250 Sports Plus package? I thought that car felt more responsive but none of them had the larger Comand screens or backup camera.
That is the general feeling of this car Lol! Very inconsistent. Sometimes it seems to pull pretty ok, then the next its flat as a pancake. The computer is constantly altering things. Throttle position, timing, boost ect. I never see 100% throtte logging the tps. Most you get is 79% and the computer lowers that at any given time. Even with the BMS tuner the computer is constantly trying to regulate boost. Sometimes it feels like the car pulls harder in 3rd gear gear than 1st and 2nd.
Transmission isnt much help either with super slow shifts even in "S". I come from the Japanese Mitsubishi turbo 4 cylinder world where adding boost meant power at part and full throttle. Power came easy! This C250 though, part throttle sometime pulls better than full throttle as boost bleeds off when you go WOT. I think the computer is always working hard to make sure this car is never quicker or feels more "peppy" than the C300 or C350 to maintain the HP heirarchy in the line up. ???
Its very interesting that the major difference between the 2014 C300 and C350 HP wise is factory tuning. The C300 is limited so its not as powerful as the C350 which costs more.
Just looked up that BMS Tuner. It seems crazy cheap as far as tuners go. But 20 HP gains aren't really that significant. Anyone have dyno numbers or info on how it works? Info out there is rather sparse.
From what I gather these ECUs are too hard to decrypt for flash?
You mean there isn't enough untapped potential in the engine to make it worth while?
I'm actually happy with the car. But there are a few things I'd probably like to tweak ECU wise. Like I'm forced to run 93 Octane fuel here, so why not a little map update? Heck, S mode by default would be worth some $$$ to me.
I could have gotten a C300 or even a C350. The C350s I found were tempting but they all had tan interiors with wood trim. Being in my 40s I just felt too young for that style.
But having a higher performance car isn't always optimal for daily transportation either.
Should be something on the website that sells them. It just replaces the factory diverter valve on the turbo. If you cannot locate the turbo then it may be wiser to have a mechanic do it.
Should be something on the website that sells them. It just replaces the factory diverter valve on the turbo. If you cannot locate the turbo then it may be wiser to have a mechanic do it.
I do know where the turbo is at. So I'm guessing this is something that requires removal of the heat shield?
I do know where the turbo is at. So I'm guessing this is something that requires removal of the heat shield?
Not at all, pretty straight forward and simple. Only requires removal of three bolts I believe (Been a while since I did it). It's all laid out right there on the page with the instructions. Just click link in 1st post of this thread, instructions with pictures are right there. Can't get any easier than that. The car featured in instructions is slightly different but essentially the same deal.
no need to remove the heat shield, you may want to remove the boost pipe for easier access though. to remove the boost pipe, push the pipe toward the engine there is play in the connector, once push forward the clip can be pushed back with a flat head and pulled up to release. i'd only remove the pipe if you can not access the hex bolt closest to the block.
no need to remove the heat shield, you may want to remove the boost pipe for easier access though. to remove the boost pipe, push the pipe toward the engine there is play in the connector, once push forward the clip can be pushed back with a flat head and pulled up to release. i'd only remove the pipe if you can not access the hex bolt closest to the block.
Hello all!! MB world newbie here
This DV is a mighty interesting mod. I'll have to give it a go. Looking for other tuning / upgrades for my 2013 C250. Thank you in advance for any suggestions or leads.
I've installed and driven the GFB DV+ for a week+ now. Overall I'm really satisfied with the results of this mod, especially for the price. Overall drivability is much improved with quicker throttle/boost response and better upper-end pull past 5K. Install is pretty easy with a 1/4" socket set and a couple different extensions. disconnecting the boost pipe, makes it easier to get your hands in place for wrench turning.
Ive had my diverter valve installed for about a week now also and noticed a huge power increase in the mids. the car (to me) pulls way harder than what it used to and as for the noise i can't hear any different since i already have an intake installed on it and straight pipes in the back easily a mod worth recommending to everyone! a pain to install when you have big hands but totally worth it
Just installed the GFB DV+ on my 2014 W204 C250. It took me about 30 min. The only issue is I did not figure out how to unplug the connector and just finished the whole process on the engine bay.
Anyone can tell me if there's a lock or something on the connector and how to unplug it?
I am about to purchase this GFB DV+. I did some research and this one is more than just the Weistec spacer. the weistec spacer description says it only gives the "whoosh" sound. Pretty lame coming from a reputable company. The GFB DV+ looks like it has a spring in it and can actually deliver some amount of measurable performance other than sound. Hopefully it works well and i can push the JB BMS tune a little more. Going to do one at a time so ill be able to give good feedback for each mod. Plans are for this valve, the BMS tune, Armytrix catback exhaust, maybe rado or armytrix catless DP eventually (doubt it, but maybe), and maybe upgraded IC maybe charge pipes if needed with that. not sure how strong the charge pipes are and if the turbo is really big enough to need that. It is disappointing there is not more support for this little 4 banger.
11-26-2015, 06:55 PM
