c32amgsuper

HI, I HAVE HUGE ISSUE WITH MY C32. OVER 4 REPAIR SHOPS I VISITED TO DO DIAGNOSTIC ON THAT CAR. NOBODY CAN GIVE ME A RIGHT ANSWER. I GOT THRU ALL OURS FORUM TO FIND RIGHT ANSWER OR JUST SOMETHING SIMILAR. TO ME IT LOOKS LIKE TRANSMISSION JERK AND TORQUE CONV LOCK UP.
ISSUE: WHEN CAR DRIVEN JUST AFTER I START IT(COLD) LOOKS LIKE EVERYTHING IS FINE. BUT 10 MIN LATER WHEN IT WARMS UP SAGA STARTS.
CRUISING AT ANY SPEED(20-50 OR ON HW 60-90) IF I WILL ADD MORE GAS/TORQUE IT WILL START JERK, SHAKE, VIBRATE THRU HOLE CAR AND IF I DONT LET IT GO IT WILL SOUND LIKE SOMETHING GRINDING/BUZZING NOISE.
AND IT WILL STOP IF I WILL FLOOR IT. OR IF I FLOOR GAS FROM START ITS FINE.

BUT DIFFERENT SHOPS TOLD ME:
1ST SHOP. DRIVE SHAFT HAS TO BE REPLACED (U-JOINT AND BEARING IS BAD) - REPLACED - $1400 PARTS AND LABOR - DID NOT CHANGE ANYTHING.
2ND SHOP. TRANSMISSION IS BAD BECAUSE IT HAS JERK AT ALL SPEEDS AND SHIFTS QUOTED ME $4500 WITH USED TRANSMISSION - I DID NOT DO IT.
I DID FULL TRANSMISSION FLUSH - NOISE WENT AWAY A LITTLE BUT EVERYTHING WAS SAME.
3RD SHOP. THEY LINKED CAR WITH COMPUTER AND TOLD ME THAT MY 2 FRONT AND ONE REAR SPEED SENSOR IS NOT WORKING. THATS WHY SENSORS SEND WRONG SPEED TO COMPUTER AND TRANSMISSION IS CONFUSED. $600 TO CHANGE SENSORS
4TH SHOP. THEY PUT CAR ON LIFT AND THEY HEARD GRINDING AND VIBRATION NOISE FROM REAR DIFFERENTIAL - I BOUGHT REAR DIFF USED ONE FOR $700 AND LABOR IS $600
BUT NO ONE OF THEM IS NOT SURE IF THAT WILL FIX THE PROBLEM. LAST ONE TOLD ME THAT HE IS 98% SURE THAT MY REAR DIFF IS BAD, BUT HE SAYING THAT MAY BE SOMETHING ELSE WRONG BESIDES THAT.

I WAS AT DEALER AND WENT FOR A RIDE WITH ONE OF THEIR MECHANICS AND HE TOLD ME THAT I NEED NEW TRANNY.... QUOTED 9K IN REPAIRS.
I DONT KNOW WHAT TO DO. WHERE TO GO....I HAVE SCHEDULED APPOINTMENT WITH OTHER SHOP ON NEXT TUESDAY.

IS THERE ANY OF YOU HAD SOMETHING SIMILAR TO MY PROBLEM?
I REALLY NEED ADVICE FROM YOU GUYS, PLEASE.

I ALREADY HAVE IN MIND TO SELL CAR THE WAY IT IS... IT'S JUST TOO MUCH HEADACHE FROM IT.... BUT I STILL LOVE IT)))

PLEASE HELP... OR IF SOMEBODY CAN RECOMMEND ANY GOOD SHOP IN ARE OF BOSTON WITHIN 100 MILES. I LIVE ON CAPE COD.

THANKS TO EVERYONE WHO IS READING THIS.

mb techman

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c32amgsuper

IT STARTS AT DIFFERENT RPMS 1000 UP TO 3000RPMS AND ANY SPEED(IN TOWN OR HIGHWAY) I HAVE 146K MILES ON CLOCK. I HAVE BEEN DRIVING WITH THAT PROBLEM OVER 7MONTH OR IT HAPPENS WHEN I GO UPHILL AND ADD MORE GAS IT WILL START SHAKE, VIBRATE AND THAT CRAZY NOISE.... IT JUST DRIVING ME CRAZY... WHEN I AM DRIVING I HAVE TO HAVE MY MUSIC ALL THE WAY UP TO NOT HEAR THAT.

mb techman

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c32amgsuper

I have a Valeo radiator I checked on that information before. So right now should i bring to dealer for glycol test? I called my dealer couple month ago and they told me it will cost $500 for glycol test and they will flush my fluid. they can not do it separately, it doesnt sound right I think there should be the way to perform test without flushing all fluid.
if coolant leaking into transmission why my coolant level is same all the time...

let's say in worst scenario it is glycon in my fluid I will have to change radiator, torque conv and perform fluid flush couple of times yes?!
glycol contamination does it make a lot of damage to transmission?

mb techman

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c32amgsuper

is it possible to drain just a little bit?! or I will need to drain it all?

JamesC32

Have you looked at your Drive shaft flex plates, they tend to go bad, when they do go bad you will feel vibration at any speed until you give it a lot of gas then the vibration will go away, look at where the drive shafts connect to the rear differential and to the transmission, there will be a rubber plate between the connections, look around the bolts to see if the rubber looks tore, I've had issues with mine and have replaced a few of them.

maverik259

who'd you have change your tranny fluid? If there was coolant in it they should have seen it, at least I know its part of the dealer's inspection when they change tranny fluid.

c32amgsuper

I REPLACED DRIVESHAFT, FLEX DISCS AND CENTER CARRIER BEARING ON DRIVESHAFT AND IT DID NOT FIX THE PROBLEM.

c32amgsuper

I CHANGED MY FLUID AT MY FRIENDS SHOP... FLUID LOOKED FINE... AFTER CHANGING FLUID IT FELT LITTLE BIT BETTER BUT AFTER 2 DAYS IT WAS SAME STORY...
ACTUALLY I'M GOING TO DUMP ONE QUART OF TM FLUID AND SEND TO LAB FOR COOLANT TEST.
IT'S WEIRD WHEN CAR IS COLD IT DRIVES FINE.... FOR FIRST 10MIN

c32amgsuper

couple days ago I decided to start locating my problem with transmission again
I started with small problems like I had to change valve cover gaskets on both sides, doing that i find out that pcv hose was cracked(melted) had to replace that. Replaced control arms on both sides.
Got new Behr radiator because mine was Valeo and it was leaking somewhere. To illuminate problems i decided to replace it, it's 146k miles on that car. Radiator replaced - coolant flush done. After that I drained transmission fluid to took a sample and did tm oil flush. After flush shifting got better and it was less buzzing/harsh on light acceleration. But driving for couple days it turned back...
noise/vibration/buzzing all the time on light acceleration... Went on hwy driving 65-75 was getting same noises and vibration all the time!

so I sent sample to BlackStone Labs and got report from them yesterday....They found little bit of coolant and biggest issue is IRON.
if you can look at report and helm me to figure out what it can be - next where to look.
I dont know what to do... it's already cost me one over 2k
Is it will be better to replace transmission with used one or try to rebuild it?

lomita

Why not get an extended warranty protection package from MB USA and then take it in and let them do what needs to be done?

Just an idea.

If metal is in the coolant, i.e., iron, I would ask in the AMG lounge (online) and speak with their experts.

Good luck!

Got to take different action if you want different results.....

c32amgsuper

MB won't give me any extended warranty because it's 12 year car... only third party warranties witch are really sketchy! I did some research and each one has some issues, you have to get lucky to find right one!

maybe here other members will have any thoughts

Tyler Ornstein

I have this Exact same problem With my W211 7.662 E55 AMG any Ideas on this i am sure there are a lot of people out there with this problem and we could used your help.

sick430

Transmission most likely

W211E55AMG7.662

Nope this is not it it just went in for a full transmission diagnostic came back all good, With no held error codes in the TCU? flex disk is fine and drive shaft is in tolerances. they are as confused as i am?

its identical to c32amgsuper

WTF is it ?

Khan 55

I would read up in the components of the gearbox and see what parts are made of Iron. Maybe upload a video of the noise from the car whilst driving and under it when idling and let someone give it lil rpm while recording. Is the clutch packs if any not giving problems? I will see if I can ask a friend here at work. He rebuilt a tranny on a C200 Merc like our shape.
You say if you flat the car from go you wont have a problem but cruise and that give it foot and you experience jerks?


Is this not attributed to a bad fuel filter? Maybe the pump is going? See if you can fit a gauge between the feed line before the engine and after the pump/tank. Don't have a clue what it should be but I suppose its worth a check.


Problem is you say oil content has iron in it. Maybe something on the valve body needs replacing? If your friend at his workshop can help you test fuel pressure and its okay, maybe try and drop the valve body from the box. There is a write up on how to remove and install it. Is the tranny connector not have a leak in the terminals as like someone mentioned it could play with the TCU.

swedepat

lockup clutch gone bad?

truckboattruck

Hey did you have any luck resolving this issue?! I am having the exact same symptoms and cant afford to throw any money at it. Please let me know anything else you have tried or found. I would really appreciate any advice

scboost

have you changed the spark plugs lately??? I had a very similar issue and it would not throw any misfire codes, I originally thought it was the torque converter slipping. replaced plugs and good to go.