Gprocket1

So I bought a C32 from a guy on the forum here and it drove from Toronto where he lives to where Detroit where Im from. It was fine for about 40 miles and as I was pulling into the gas station I hit the gas, immediately after the check engine light came on, no noticeable issue. Kept driving with no issues and right after I crossed into the U.S. I started to notice the performance was weak. Then it got worse, worse, worse and eventually to the point that I had to use two feet to keep it from stalling at a stop. It seems like if I keep the pedal at about 1/3 throttle it does alright but when I go anything above that it starts bogging down. I am freaking out and any help would be much appreciated.

Here are the codes,
P2007
PP20DC
P2085
P2016
P203A
P20D4
P2090
P20CC
P2PCA
P203B

-Brad

Lenin

It would help to know what modifications you have, if any. This is a lot of codes. Start by finding a shop with a STAR diagnostics computer and have them read all the codes, including the hidden codes. I suspect the problem may be related to the MAP sensor, the EGR valve or the pedal sensor. But it can also be so many other things. Call the seller and get as much history on the car as possible. When was the last oil change done, air filters replaced, are all the sensors OEM or ebay.china?

Gprocket1

Totally stock except for an aftermarket oil catch can, if that even counts.. I worked at a authorized MB repair shop for a while but I was just a parts changer and never really did much diagnosis. But I did check what I could, made sure everything was getting spark, checked for vacuum leaks, checked all the hose clamps related to the supercharger, looked ALL over for the MAFS and never found it, which makes sense because as I later found out it doesnt have one...

In regards to the pedal sensor, the throttle a couple times wasnt responding and started idling inbetween 900-1100rpm. It only does it when I start the car and the idle is extremely rough, seems like a precautionary thing.

I am going to take the car to the shop I worked at and they will sort out the codes tomorrow.

I am also talking to the seller tomorrow. But as far as the sensors and whatnot, Im pretty sure its all oem, I bought the car from Jack Lis on the forum if you know him. He was really up front about everything so I feel confident that if this is a preexisting problem or something that came back he will be straight with me.

I checked the air filters and oil and they both seem to be fairly fresh.


Here's the link to his thread when he was selling it, he posted a bunch of work he did at 130kilometers. It has around 140 now

https://mbworld.org/forums/c32-amg-c...ml#post5931728

-Brad

Gprocket1

So I had my computer ran by a benz shop and they said its the main computer, the code was N1141 and the part number was 2038273742, will this computer I found online work? And is that the code for the main computer? He cleared it and the car runs much better but still not 100%... which he said is normal.


http://www.automotix.net/usedautopar...FbFaMgod_hUAIw

-Brad

Lenin

How reputable is this benz shop? 2038273742 is a COMAND unit, your radio and Nav. There is no way this can cause rough idle. And the N1141 code has to do with the D2B network (fiber optics) that connects your COMAND with the rest of the multimedia devices. Do you need a new ECU?

Gprocket1

That SOB, I looked at the code and knew in the back of my mind it was the stereo! I guess that's what I get for not waiting tili could get into a reputable MN shop... well I guess I'm back to square 1. Thank you though, I would have been very unhappy ifi bought that and had it programmed.

-Brad

djdirty76

Hi.. Just thought i'd add to this..
I sold Gprocket the c32 amg.. We spoke on the phone today.. Some more info for anyone with ideas.. All parts were original mercedes parts, never got anything for it other than original parts. When I had a rough idle with this car before twice - one problem was a miss fire - which was solved by buying all new ignition wires and a new coil packs. The other time it was a faulty accelerator pedal sensor. It threw a code for the pedal/throttle body, don't remember the code number now.. But I got that repaired. Changed pedal accelerator that has the sensor and replaced the throttle body while at it... After that car was perfect.. And I drove it as a daily driver for the next 10,000km. I had no codes at all since the pedal / throttle body change. Other than that, the car was sitting in front of the house last 6-7 months, only drove it once a week around the block, and it didn't have engine light at all. Anyways we will see what the star machine will bring up..

Gprocket1

Is this the map sensor? I pulled the plug off, started it up and it idled a little rough but when I hit the gas it took off good enough to spin the tires and with it plugged in I can't get any power off the line. Whatever this is I'm thinking is the problem. I went to my buddies shop who isn't a MB mechanic but he is a ASE master mechanic and specializes in turbo and supercharged engines and he is almost certain that it is the map sensor and if not that a intake leak. But I can't find any good pic of where the map sensor is, searching google images, theres a bunch of different pics of where it says it is...

-Brad

Lenin

Link is not working. Protected by https.

Gprocket1

I did some looking around and it looks like the coolant temperature sensor, is that correct?

Lenin

Not sure what this is but it is not the MAP sensor. The map sensor is in the y-pipe under the throttle body. http://www.needswings.com/NeedsWings...e-ttypipe.aspxThis is the y-pipe.

Lenin

Duplicate post

Pansu

Yes, that is coolant sensor.

Gprocket1

So I replaced the map sensor and it seems to run stronger but now I cant get it to idle, it jumps up and down in rpm and if I dont keep on the gas it will stall.

Lenin

Do a "sneaky ECU reset". Use forum search for instructions. Also check all the hoses and wires to make sure everything is still connected. It is possible to undo connections since the MAP sensor is somewhat deep under all the hoses and wires.

Gprocket1

I did the reset but nothing changed, I did a vacuum test on the intake and no leaks, also checked all the connectors and everything seems to be good....

Gprocket1

I unplugged my throttle body and started it up and could get it to idle at least... I found out that the throttle body on my clk 500 is the same so I was going to swap it out, when it's plugged in and I hold the gas the butterfly opens and closes and while in the "on" position and engine off it makes a weird noise, like my r/c cars if the servo was getting out of range. Is that normal?

Gramma_Benz

This is s temporary TB reset. If you have a bad TB, it will keep happening, but sometimes this will at least make the car drivable for a while.

unplug the cable to your throttle body for one minute. Then plug it back in, turn key to position two, wait one minute, then start car.

Good Luck!

Gprocket1

So it is the computer... Do I have to buy a brand new one from the dealer or can I get one used?

Lenin

Who is telling you this? Most likely if it was the computer, the car wouldn't work at al. Like if the car was flooded and the ECU got wet. The software on the ECU either runs or it doesn't.
Check all cable connections at the ECU and the TB. Use electrical contact spray (or whatever it is called). This spray promotes electrical conductivity. Most likely there is something wrong with the TB or somewhere there is an incorrect voltage being communicated to the ECU.
But to answer your question. You can get the ECU from the dealer. Will be lots of $$$. The dealer will also need to code the ECU with your VIN number.
Or, if you have a relationship with a tuner, then maybe you can purchase a second hand ECU and the tuner can recoded it with your VIN number for you.

Gprocket1

Got my computer back, it was the coolant sensor and map sensor part of the computer that was bad, I start it up and it does the same thing, unless I disconnect the map sensor!!! I am about ready to blow this thing up. Does this make any sense??