Super B

Finally got home. 14 hour days.. Any ways yeah totally corrected on that one. Thanks again.. There is for sure two different sizes.. So then that raises a whole new set of questions. First is why would you want a small and large piston? Second is if the smaller piston is on the leading edge that means the bleed screw is on the bottom. Does that mean a fella bleeds the calipers before rotating and bolting them down in their final positions? And lastly that's going to make for some interesting brake line routing. I already have some stoptech stainless just at a glance it looks like they are going to be short. .

DRBC43AMG

Please give those calipers a clean!

Super B

Thanks to some really good info from really old posts from scorchie and speedybenz looks like I have a couple options..

1. Leave it alone for now and revisit it later.. Everything bolts up the way it should but I'll increase pad wear and loose a bit of breaking. (Still way better than beat down wore out brakes I previously had)

2. Reverse the calipers mounting them opposite then fab up some J shaped hard lines to work with the brake lines I currently have. Or re sell the stop tech lines an just have some brake lines made up extended length for the pointed down line inlet.

Super B

For sure, this is the un touched un mounted dirty one laying on the garage table till I can get back to it this weekend...

DRBC43AMG

:-)

popey24

Thats what I try to explain for so long... C32 rotors are not that plug and play many people think it is.

With same piston size you would have miximumum breaking load on first piston caused by rotation. To solve that problem, the first piston always must be smallest.
If you simply swap rotors left/right to have the caliper in front of the rotor, the 1st piston is biggest that is dangorous.
You need to mount the caliper with bleeding valve at bottom.

6/8 piston calipers can be simply modified, because they have compatible holes for bleeding valve at bottom and top, but c32 calipers don't have.

DRBC43AMG

True, the 4 piston AP calipers in my build have 2 bleed valves top and 2 bottom. That solves all the positioning problems...

Super B

Wish I would have touched bases with some one who has done this swap before prior to just diving into it. But no worries it's how you learn right? As far as the brakes I didn't like having the bleed screw on bottom. Sooo... Since the paint was pretty rough from falling out of the box and getting hammered in shipping (I bought these on eBay, showed up with the bleeder screw broken and all the bubble wrap mangled) I just broke down the calipers and switched the sides on the frames. Now the bleed screw is where is should be and the pistons are in the right positions. However the brake line inlet points down so I'm still going to need a set of lines. I found a shop in Portland that makes custom brake lines so I'm going to swing by there tomorrow and score up a set. Excuse the dirty calipers I need to give them both a wash now that ones pistons are clean and the others frame is dirty from the swap.

Super B

Sweet sensors zayed.

cm60k

....

ZAYED,,

Super B

one side down one more to go!

KJI3jflarryfe93

please measure the brakelines you have on your car if they are long enuff for your piston swaps?

when you get the new brakelines please do not forget to measure them aswell

i have goodridge brakelines on my car
they are a bit longer because of the stiffer braid, when i mount my c55 calips aand swapping piston sides, i hope these goodridge brakelines are long enuff to connect to the lower connector?

Super B

So a little update on this. I got some new brake lines made up. I added 90mm to the stock length which will work great for the way I want to route the lines. However it's NOT long enough to route them the way the factory did. To route them like the factory I think your going to have to add 120mm to the length. I'll take some pictures after everything is bolted up but at least gives you and idea what your looking at.

Super B

More update. So new lines didn't work out well. after making this bracket and getting routed Nicely I was doing a final check lock to lock and noticed that the fitting on the brake line was contacting the shock bolt. Wasn't horrible but wasn't good.

Super B

So I round filed the one bracket and made up a hard line with a coupler along with a new bracket off the caliper bolt to take any flex out of the system while the suspension is moving.

Super B

Totally off topic... But while I was working away on the 36. A buddy swung by to check out how the brake and suspension/multi link rebuild was going and to also show off his new wheels. Snapped a couple pics of his ride for you guys. It's a 02 firebird WS6 with a LQ4 swap rear mount turbo boosting 12 psi with methanol. Brembo brakes from a cts-v.. Built everything.. Way to much to list but last time it was dyno'd it put a solid 600 horse to the ground and he is still dialing the tune in. It's proper fast.

DRBC43AMG

You are lucky in the US to be able to get away with all those mods on the road. Here it would be practically impossible without a load of $$$ to get everything certified and homologated and even that may be impossible.

KJI3jflarryfe93

where did you get the brakeline adapter seen in the last picture?
it's brakeline is bolted to caliper then adapter hooked up with braided lines
is there a shop selling these adapters?

Sulaco

I'm a bit of a political junkie, so hearing stuff like this makes me thank God I'm 'murican.

My next project after both my C43's are in top-shape and at least one of them has had proper 5.4l swap is to restore and modify a 67-69 Dodge Dart. But I hope to be going with a modern Hemi. The Dart was mopar's lightest and cheapest muscle car, and they built/sold far more of them than anything else, so it will be a relatively cheap and easy build. But with just proper heads, cam, pistons, and completely new intake manifold and ECU those things can push 600 naturally aspirated and be dead reliable for years to come!

cm60k

There are several brake lines could help:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Metal-brake-lines-Porsche-1974-1975-1976-1977-1978-1979-1980-1981-1982-1983-1994-/390871944095?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item5b01c88b9f&vxp=mtr
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Porsche-911-Brake-Line-Brake-Hose-To-Caliper-2-COHLINE-NEW-NS-/151209862028?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2334cf638c&vxp=mtr
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Porsche-911-Brake-Line-Brake-Hose-To-Caliper-Rear-Right-2-COHLINE-NEW-NS-/161327727585?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item258fe1c3e1&vxp=mtr
ZAYED,,

KJI3jflarryfe93

thanks for the info Zayed
which one of these links fits the w203 C55 AMG 4 pot calipers?
what is the correct thread size?

maybe getting the first brakelins which can bend or the bottom brakelines from the last bottom link because they are a bit longer?
this way to reduce tension on my braided Goodridge brakelines?
what ya think?

Pagz

Super B, thanks for the pics good work!

For those with cert issues maybe a billet alloy U bend attached to the caliper with a banjo and all painted same colour as caliper might help?. Though you may need to machine the banjo thread and mounting surface.

Zayed/Dennis do you recall the wieghts of the C32/C55 calipers/rotors?

Cheers,

cm60k

Dennis,

As i know; all Autounion Porsche/Audi/VW using the same thread with Benz/BMW, which is M10X1,

yes first one is good choice as flexible,,

i prefer if you can ask the seller about fitment first, he may have better info...

ZAYED,,

cm60k

Paul,

C32/C55:-

Front caliper with pads (5.4kg), and Rotor is: (11.8kg)

Rear caliper with pads (3.4kg), and Rotor is: (6.9kg)

ZAYED,,

Pagz

Thanks Zayed,
You have written this wieght elsewhere but I could not find it!

The front caliper is much lighter than C43 maybe 2kg!, but rotor is heavier...does anyone supply two piece rotors for the C32? if so would be excellent upgrade for wieght