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Members -
To remove my cylinder head, I cut the signal wires to the two knock sending units and the oil level indicator because they were entangled in the intake manifold and I couldn't access them to disconnect -- and I figured I'd re-wire with longer connections around the manifold upon reassembly -- and I'm an idiot who didn't know/think this would be a difficult thing to fix.
Now I need insulated, 2 wire, stranded wire to piece them back together. I thought it was single strand 12gauge and ordered some ExtremeWire, but as sending units, its actually 18-20gauge with a thick rubber wrapping. I'd prefer to not start stringing 6 separates.
I cannot find similar wire anywhere. AutoZone, HomeDepot, ... Help
Yolo -
I'm not the mechanic to help you. You might consider starting a New Thread as the members are great for advising. If it were my problem, here's what I'd do:
1. Did you solve the overheating problem? If yes, that's a positive. If no, ugh - you attacked the wrong cause. You didn't mention why you changed the waterpump and thermostat. did you find you had no circulation...
2. To address the fan. Do you know what right/wrong looks like? Is this abnormal behavior? There are lots of complaints about the fan cycle and noise, so you need to establish what are your car's specs standard - when should the fan come on, go off. Then compare.
Again, back to my car. I had overheating and I'm changing the head gasket - but I'm pretty convinced the two were not related. The condition of my block, head, compression, lack of coolant loss all indicate they were separate issues. The oil leaks I've found convinced me the gasket was on its last leg or I would have had an overtemp/blown engine.
Yet, my overheat was from my fan clutch and fan clutch bearing bracket. The clutch showed no resistance and the bearing was shot. Because of these, my fan was not operating to standard, nor pump and another overheat broke the thermostat.
Sidetracked a few days trying to decide how to re-wire my signal indicators, and waiting for a few parts - hoses, fuel injectors (had them serviced by Mr Injector - ebay for $102 - great deal).
Took the down time to install gaskets, change hose clamps, clean all the oil/grime build-up caused by the head gasket leak on other parts.
Okay - time to quit farting around and finish what I started. Let's put on that new gasket and install the head.
Took a few additional hands to place the head w/o wanting to drop it. I took it off with the manifolds both attached and it was more balanced and almost level. Raising it without the manifolds, it was tilted so much that I didn't want to chance tearing the new gasket so I waited for two more folks. I lifted to level from the left. Another guided onto the dowels from the right. A third, operated the lift.
1. I moved very slow through triple checking the timing and timing chain set-up. Being a first-timer, I just wasn't sure what folks meant by "retarding" the intake adjuster. Gosh, I hope I set that up right.
If I haven't mentioned it before, there is an incredible M104 Topend build thread at:
1. Exhaust. I felt more comfortable starting re-assembly on the exhaust side. I wasted 2-2.5 hours fighting with the manifolds because it looked as though the pipes would get in the way or be so tight that they might not go on if I put the manifolds to the head first, so I loosely fitted the pipe joints. That plan worked for the rear manifold, but I struggled with the front one until I abandoned having the pipes loosely attached. I unattached the pipes and put both manifolds on, then pipes. Helps to release the hanger from halfway back on pipes.
2. Next, I put on the valve cover, new gaskets. Be sure to remember the half-moon gaskets at the rear of the engine block.
3. I had taken my alternator and smog pump and accessory bracket all out when fighting my fan clutch and flange assembly. Matter of fact, I also took out all the airbox assembly on the left and washer jug on the right just to give me lots of space. I re-installed the bracket, alternator, pump and fan clutch flange. (Not pictured)
4. Started on the right side. Reviewed all the loose ends and wires to be sure I knew what I wanted to assemble before the intake manifold was in the way... Then I placed the intake manifold - first the two tubes underneath, then the two large connectors between lower intake and upper. Then bolted on.
I stopped at the fuel injectors. When I reassembled newly serviced injectors into the rail, the are all canted off to one side. So, when I place the rail back on the cylinder head/manifold it is offset about half a bolt width for the matching of rail bolt holes to head holes. Do you just tighten down and that pulls everything into alignment? Also, do they just rest in the manifold holes, or do you work them in until the o-ring sorta plunges in a groove or something?
Note how they are all canted upward, this is not because of camera angle or the angle they approach the head. That would be down from this perspective.
Finished the following today and just fell short of being ready to run the engine:
1. Fuel rail attached
2. On Left: Air breather box, cross tube, MAS sensors.
3. On Right: Washer reservior, final wiring
4. On Front: Radiator Hoses, Fan Pulley, Fan clutch & Fan assembly, serpentine belt.
Returned all the accessories and air box induction sections on the Right.
Got the serpentine belt and fan assembly & shroud back in. Boy, look how tight it is on the C36. No fun, but becoming an old pro. Cut down a 8mm Allen wrench to secure that retaining bolt on front.
Still need to clean-up, zip tie and cover the wiring harness, but it's all together and hoses attached. I also pulled washer reservior for more access to intake manifold/EGR on disassembly.
New fan clutch to go with new flange & bearing - which were the cause of the original over-heating issues which started this journey.
Anxious today to top-off the fluids and crank my car - anxious as in scared!
1. Completed an oil filter/oil change. I'll run this a few hundred miles and change again.
2. Filled coolant mix. Will burp and complete after/if engine runs.
3. Filled washer reservoir ....
BUT, the grommets on the bottom of the reservoir pumps failed as they may not have been moved in 19yrs. I had to run-out to the Dealership to get replacements...
4. Attached battery and returned ignition fuse.
5. Attached replaced fuel and return lines at the fuel rail. They had shown signs of pending failure (bubbling). Then I couldn't remember which was "in" and which was "return". Been trying to decipher for a couple days. Finally figured it out.
TIME TO CRANK!!!
After insuring fuel lines had pressurized, I cranked. It fired right up the first time - BUT, I had a irregular clicking noise. I thought - OH *****!!! Scared me the valves/pistons were striking or timing chain to cover ??? just didn't know being a rookie. Didn't allow it to run long as to not damage. Investigated and repeated several times. Identified it was from front of engine - again nervous for timing chain assembly or valve/piston misalignment. Started a few more times briefly, but the pattern was irregular enough I deduced it must not be regular striking of chain/valves. Looked at all the pulley assemblies and determined TWO BLADES of my fan, now on a new fan clutch assembly are striking a small nut-like protrusion on the front of the idler pulley. So, the fan is a little warped or the fan clutch is a little thinner than before - What is that small nut/marking there for?
I'm taking a break today. Happy the engine appears to be running okay, though it needs a longer run/warming cycle.
I think I'll have to find a way to bend the fan blades or put spacer washers between fan and fan clutch attaching bolts. (Great, another chance to work in those tight places)
Any other recommendations????
Otherwise, the project is - hopefully - almost complete!
My Garage is ready to use again.
My baby is ready to get off these jack stands after almost a month!!!
X+5: Head Gasket & Fan replacement complete - rough idle?
After filling all the fluids Saturday and running the car a bit, I was experiencing:
1. some burn-off smoke near back of engine which scared me the head gasket did not seat well;
2. some contact between fan and idler pulley;
3. seemed like a louder than normal vacuum sound around intake manifold or fuel rail;
4. rough idle.
So I:
2. put some spacer washers between fan and fan clutch to move fan forward away from pulley - CHECK.
1. the burn-off/smoke is not recurring today - so, I'm hoping that is all that was - CHECK.
3. I found one small vacuum tube and my fuel cap still off from my fuel injector work. That reduced vacuum sound, but still more than I remember near fuel rail?
4. Rough idle remains - BUT no codes? Any ideas...
I'm afraid I have timing issues after reassembling the timing chain - there are so many cautions about this issue. I did set to TDC, set cam dowels and retard intake cam, but...
SuperB -
I'm hoping I'm done, but she's not running smoothly yet. (See X+5 post)
The engine mounts are probably original and due for consideration. I need to next do a bottom gasket job on this vehicle - at least the oil pan - but, I'll wait to take it into the Fort autoshop and do those jobs on a lift.
Did you replace all the vacuum lines and rubber connections? I found a few that were cracked through but you couldn't tell unless you stressed the rubber. Also have you done a new FPR or filter? How about plugs, wires, and coils? Maf as well? I had changed all that along with the fuel pump and any vacuum leaks then used an SDS (which I know you probably don't have) to reset the adaptation data and it's running a lot smoother after all that. Hope you figure it out!
Mike51809-
I did not go to the extreme of some with repair/replacements. I did follow a write-up where the guy did replace all rubber, so I did alot (Coolant & Intake lines - found that vacuum line connector cracked), inspected others (oil / fuel cooler lines & vacuum). My car's had a pretty easy life - garaged and <10k/yr, so most of the rubber looked awfully good to be replacing - you have to draw a line on expenses somewhere.
I did plugs, valve cover seals/grommets, have replaced the wiring harness, replaced MAS last year, cleaned the EGR tube.
I'm not throwing any codes or Check Engine at this time, so I'm going to go to my mechanic tomorrow and have a diagnosis done. I'll ask about SDS reset - I'm not familiar with FPR? - but also thinking the fuel pump/filter may never have been replaced or since 100k.
It's been interesting reading the threads about rough idle and the many causes - with very little certainty - are bantered around. I've also seen flushing the transmission, catalytic, ... The dealerships seem to offer little advice, or are too quick to just swap parts. I'm uncomfortable with that form of problem solving. I will continue to investigate. Thanks for your share!
SuperB,
The idle roughness is irregular and does cause an engine rock or RPM dip and surge. I'm thinking fuel, air or regulation compensating for one of those as it doesn't seem consistent with a failed or inop part in the regular cycle (spark, ignitor, etc.)
tqmas -
Thanks for trying. I mention in #40 that I replaced MAS and cleaned EGR tube because of a 0401 code in the Spring. (I think that's the code). I'm not getting codes at the moment.
I just left the auto shop. Our first diagnosis was a "smoke test". We found the fuel injectors are not seated properly and leaking - I'd struggled with those (See #33) - and a small leak on the baffle where the induction cross tube joins the intake. Fixing those now with fingers crossed.
To diagnose the rough idle and get an overall review of my work - I ran the car to my mechanic today. The first test - smoke test - revealed the fuel injectors were not seated well. I provided an extra set I'd ordered and by the end of the day he worked it into the shop schedule to replace the seals and re-install the fuel rail. There was a question raised as to whether my "serviced" injectors had the correct o-rings.
All seems to be working for now! I was anxious it could have been all for nil.
It was a long month involving a lot of learning, challenges and patience.
Thanks to the MBWorld members who helped me!!!
Next up - my oil pan, rear seal and transmission could use freshening up. Stay tuned.... but for now - over to the Jeep forum as I replace most of the running gear (fully adj control arms, ARB locker, re-geared diffs) on my '98 ZJ 59er.
To diagnose the rough idle and get an overall review of my work - I ran the car to my mechanic today. The first test - smoke test - revealed the fuel injectors were not seated well. I provided an extra set I'd ordered and by the end of the day he worked it into the shop schedule to replace the seals and re-install the fuel rail. There was a question raised as to whether my "serviced" injectors had the correct o-rings.
All seems to be working for now! I was anxious it could have been all for nil.
It was a long month involving a lot of learning, challenges and patience.
Thanks to the MBWorld members who helped me!!!
Next up - my oil pan, rear seal and transmission could use freshening up. Stay tuned.... but for now - over to the Jeep forum as I replace most of the running gear (fully adj control arms, ARB locker, re-geared diffs) on my '98 ZJ 59er.
Lol sweet!! I also have a '98 ZJ 5.9 to accompany my C36, good taste!!!
You should join the Facebook ZJ 5.9 aswell!
BenzMaster -
Too funny. What's the chance of owning a C36 and 5.9r AND you seeing this thread!
I'll look for the FB page. I assume you are on theSPEEDFREAKS.net.
CigarXO
BenzMaster -
Too funny. What's the chance of owning a C36 and 5.9r AND you seeing this thread!
I'll look for the FB page. I assume you are on theSPEEDFREAKS.net.
CigarXO
Oh I'm always on the W202 AMG forums! I was following your progress since the beginning lol.
And yup, they're both rare, different and solid beasts, love them both! They just don't make vehicle like these anymore.
Well yes I'm on the speed freaks forum but I'm not registered as of yet, I just read most of the threads to get better knowledge. There's a lot more questions from a lot more people on the Facebook 5.9 groups I have noticed though, I'm Marco Campes on there shoot me a message!
09-07-2014, 03:29 PM
Where can I buy heat resistant, 18-2 wire?
X+6: Complete - for now!
