CK17

You did a great job with photos and the write up. I'm just wondering why you change your oil more frequently than you have to? Especially if you're using quality oil and filters.
Unless you have an engine with low quality oil and filters or its not working properly , bad seals , burning oil etc. Changing the oil more frequently is less helpful. The oil in your engine is actually cleaner than the oil in the brand new jug that you just purchased. So on top of wasting money with extra oil changes you're increasing the chance of introducing dirt into your engine. If you're worried about debris in your engine you can always use magnets to check your oil or send in samples. I am not trying to put down your write up. Its very well done. I just don't understand the reason behind the extra oil changes.

nardeezy@yahoo.

I didn't look thru al the replies to this post but I'm assuming the 8.8Q capacity of that Mityvac extract all of the oil in one cycle without overflowing?

Pit-Pony

The best way to change oil is to drain it. Warm engine and let it drip out for a good 10 minutes wile leaving the oil fill cap in the engine open and the filter out. The oil cooler will drain into the main pan if you wait long enough.

if you are doing your own maintenance, you should invest in a good floor Jack and four jack stands. You can easily get under the car to drain the oil into a large plastic pan. To avoid the oil gushing onto the underside of the car I use a piece of cardboard, slightly bent in half and hold it above the drain area to direct the initial gushing oil out into the pan below.

The filter is on top so it's easy. MB sells a plastic tool that fits on your ratchet to remove the filter cover or use a large wide mouth wrench.

I would let MB do the scheduled maintenance oil changes and DIY intermediate changes with Mobil 1 Formula M 5W-40 (see my other oil thread posts for locating the oil).

nardeezy@yahoo.

Can you rationalize how draining is better than vacuum or vice versa? Most MB dealer service centers use vacuum.

Helms

Awesome post and photos, thanks for sharing!

Pit-Pony

Not my dealer. On the M156 engines they drain.

Mikegpr03

I have done both vac and drain. I don't really see the point to drain. The vac gets out 95% of the oil. Just my .2

Pit-Pony

Just depends how **** you are about the maintenance of the car I guess.

jvanbrecht

Drain will get out any additional sludge that has settled in the oil pan. It's a good idea to drain the oil every once in a while. During Summer, I alternate between drain and vacuum, in winter, straight up vacuum (the grounds cold damnit...)

track_warrior

Nice always thought about buying a mityvac just did not know if they worked. Thanks man

drawde

I'm about to pull the trigger on this but I wanted to make sure I'm doing it right.

On http://www.genuinemercedesparts.com using the P/N from OP it's bringing up two results:

2009 - MERCEDES-BENZ - C63 AMG - 156.985 - V8 - 6.3L - GAS
ENGINE / ENGINE / ENGINE PARTS / Filter element
0001803009 - Filter element 6.3 LITER
PARTS: Part included with oil filter housing.

and

2009 - MERCEDES-BENZ - C63 AMG - 156.985 - V8 - 6.3L - GAS
MAINTENANCE & LUBRICATION / ENGINE SERVICE / FILTERS / OIL FILTER
0001803009 - OIL FILTER C63 AMG

Both are priced the same. Do I need the "filter element" or the oil filter?

Lastly, I've read all the threads about the oil weights, I'd like to try 5W-40 this time around. Which one is everyone using?

or

bhamg

^ The filter is a drop-in filter element. It looks like the two part #'s are the same though even though the wording is different. You want the Formula M oil on the right.

_timothy

what do you use to get the oil out of the mityvac and into a container for transport to be disposed of? or is there a bag or something in the mityvac??

edit:

drawde, my dealer used 5w40 ESP Formula M at my last service A

jvanbrecht

you pour it out of the mightvac into another container.. that is all.

Valvestud

The one on the right is the only one you can use for the M156.

Jon2007E63P30

Beat me to it. I still like the 0W-40. Slightly higher % wear inhibitors, just slightly harder on the catalytic converter which MB Must warrantee much longer than the rest of the car.

otakki

Good reviving of an old thread. I learned a lot today from this excellent write up. Based on the info, I think I'm just going to take my car to the dealer for the oil change. However, that Mityvac thing is good to have for my other 20-years old car. It looks like my days of PITA jacking up the car and rolling underneath is over with this Mityvac. That link to the socket is definitely good.

Meanwhile, I'm still trying to figure out jacking up the car via the midline location and rotating the tires...

flomofo

Doing mityvac on older cars I service myself as well.

Did the prepaid thing for my new 2012 coupe for 1500 which is up to 30k service C.

On this car if you change the oil every 5k, I can see why you would still want to drain the oil cooler too but doeasnt seem as critical since the old oil has already circulated around and mixed with the fresh stuff.

kaz109

About to do a service B and was wondering if anybody uses Royal Purple 0W-40?

Mort

Royal Purple is not on the MB approved list 229.5 or 229.51 and it is possible to run into warranty issues if you use it.

Critter

I'm with you Pit Pony, draining all my life in all cars. It gives you a chance to inspect under the car , you can save a lot of grief if you see a leaky this or a worn that by just a little visual inspection. After draining all oil and refilling with fresh, the old oil is put back into the jugs and this way you get an idea of just how much oil the car is using.

schmick325

These are the easiest cars to do oil changes on.

Have done so many times on my ML63.

1 thing to watch out for though is that the thread on oil cooler is very soft and if over tightened, will come out with the bolt the next time you drain it.

This happened to me at 5pm on a Sunday afternoon. Luckily I managed to con my local thread tap guy into coming around after hrs on a Sunday!!

Valvestud

Easy, once you get past removing the shield underneath. I've done it both ways on my ML63 and C63 and the vacuum route is definitely easier.

Regards,

Joe

skaarlaj

engine oil is designed to "entrain" particulates, instead of letting the debris "fall-out" of suspension. If the engine is ran and the oil is circulated before vacuuming, you should get just as much "crap" out as the draining method. and when your talking over 2 gallons of oil, the small amount that may stay in the cooler is miniscule.

I'll post here and make a new thread when I change mine, and if I get a mini-vac, I'll vac it out, let it set for 5-10 minutes, and then I'll pull the drain plugs, and inform you how much more comes out.

For those of you who think it's crazy to change your own oil, I'm betting there's people you wouldn't trust tying your shoes that have changed your oil. Just because it costs a lot, doesn't mean it was done "better" than a caring owner performing the same task imo.

schmick325

I change my oil every 5000 klms. The stated 15,000 klms from Mercedes is far too long for anyone considering keeping their car out of warranty.

Even at 10,000 the oil is spent.

IMO