New tune! Ready for the track :)
#1
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New tune! Ready for the track :)
Secondary ECU is on route to Weistec for a 105 octane race fuel map.
Also got a few more goodies in the mail
Also switching my main tune to a Weistec 94 octane once my race fuel ecu is back.
Will post results, hopefully weather is decent friday for street legals.
Gonna run in M mode, using light weight battery (15lbs), jack removed and back seats removed.
Any suggestions on what PSI to run the Hoosier DOT drag radials at and how long to burn out for?
Thanks fellas.
Also got a few more goodies in the mail
Also switching my main tune to a Weistec 94 octane once my race fuel ecu is back.
Will post results, hopefully weather is decent friday for street legals.
Gonna run in M mode, using light weight battery (15lbs), jack removed and back seats removed.
Any suggestions on what PSI to run the Hoosier DOT drag radials at and how long to burn out for?
Thanks fellas.
#2
MBWorld Fanatic!
Wow your all set now watchout everyone
Secondary ECU is on route to Weistec for a 105 octane race fuel map.
Also got a few more goodies in the mail
Also switching my main tune to a Weistec 94 octane once my race fuel ecu is back.
Will post results, hopefully weather is decent friday for street legals.
Gonna run in M mode, using light weight battery (15lbs), jack removed and back seats removed.
Any suggestions on what PSI to run the Hoosier DOT drag radials at and how long to burn out for?
Thanks fellas.
Also got a few more goodies in the mail
Also switching my main tune to a Weistec 94 octane once my race fuel ecu is back.
Will post results, hopefully weather is decent friday for street legals.
Gonna run in M mode, using light weight battery (15lbs), jack removed and back seats removed.
Any suggestions on what PSI to run the Hoosier DOT drag radials at and how long to burn out for?
Thanks fellas.
#4
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#5
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LOL ok.
I've been waiting all winter for this. Wont run near as good as you or other guys, but hopefully decent. Our tracks up here are slow and at 2500ft.
Hopefully I can keep up to or go past my partners Viper and I will be happy.
I've been waiting all winter for this. Wont run near as good as you or other guys, but hopefully decent. Our tracks up here are slow and at 2500ft.
Hopefully I can keep up to or go past my partners Viper and I will be happy.
#6
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#10
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2014 Audi RS7
Good luck!! You will have a BLAST!!
Honestly, lose the passenger seat. It takes 5 minutes to remove and its 65 ugly pounds. Run it forward all the way and remove the two bolts on the rear rails. Then pop the cover off the seat belt cover and unplug it and remove the one bolt holding the seat belt. The run the seat back and remove the two front bolts. Then LASTLY unplug the four plugs under the front and then remove. I usually take the lose passenger seat belt and bolt it to the hole in the floor where it naturally falls because theres a hole there for it. Then reverse that procedure putting it back in. Takes all of five minutes and worth the 65# loss.
Now all you need is some C/F parts to lighten it up.
Enjoy the car!!
Honestly, lose the passenger seat. It takes 5 minutes to remove and its 65 ugly pounds. Run it forward all the way and remove the two bolts on the rear rails. Then pop the cover off the seat belt cover and unplug it and remove the one bolt holding the seat belt. The run the seat back and remove the two front bolts. Then LASTLY unplug the four plugs under the front and then remove. I usually take the lose passenger seat belt and bolt it to the hole in the floor where it naturally falls because theres a hole there for it. Then reverse that procedure putting it back in. Takes all of five minutes and worth the 65# loss.
Now all you need is some C/F parts to lighten it up.
Enjoy the car!!
#12
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2021 Taycan Turbo, 2018 Radical SR3, 2021 Lincoln Aviator
Good luck!! You will have a BLAST!!
Honestly, lose the passenger seat. It takes 5 minutes to remove and its 65 ugly pounds. Run it forward all the way and remove the two bolts on the rear rails. Then pop the cover off the seat belt cover and unplug it and remove the one bolt holding the seat belt. The run the seat back and remove the two front bolts. Then LASTLY unplug the four plugs under the front and then remove. I usually take the lose passenger seat belt and bolt it to the hole in the floor where it naturally falls because theres a hole there for it. Then reverse that procedure putting it back in. Takes all of five minutes and worth the 65# loss.
Now all you need is some C/F parts to lighten it up.
Enjoy the car!!
Honestly, lose the passenger seat. It takes 5 minutes to remove and its 65 ugly pounds. Run it forward all the way and remove the two bolts on the rear rails. Then pop the cover off the seat belt cover and unplug it and remove the one bolt holding the seat belt. The run the seat back and remove the two front bolts. Then LASTLY unplug the four plugs under the front and then remove. I usually take the lose passenger seat belt and bolt it to the hole in the floor where it naturally falls because theres a hole there for it. Then reverse that procedure putting it back in. Takes all of five minutes and worth the 65# loss.
Now all you need is some C/F parts to lighten it up.
Enjoy the car!!
#13
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2013 Chevy 427 Torch Red
Good luck!! You will have a BLAST!!
Honestly, lose the passenger seat. It takes 5 minutes to remove and its 65 ugly pounds. Run it forward all the way and remove the two bolts on the rear rails. Then pop the cover off the seat belt cover and unplug it and remove the one bolt holding the seat belt. The run the seat back and remove the two front bolts. Then LASTLY unplug the four plugs under the front and then remove. I usually take the lose passenger seat belt and bolt it to the hole in the floor where it naturally falls because theres a hole there for it. Then reverse that procedure putting it back in. Takes all of five minutes and worth the 65# loss.
Now all you need is some C/F parts to lighten it up.
Enjoy the car!!
Honestly, lose the passenger seat. It takes 5 minutes to remove and its 65 ugly pounds. Run it forward all the way and remove the two bolts on the rear rails. Then pop the cover off the seat belt cover and unplug it and remove the one bolt holding the seat belt. The run the seat back and remove the two front bolts. Then LASTLY unplug the four plugs under the front and then remove. I usually take the lose passenger seat belt and bolt it to the hole in the floor where it naturally falls because theres a hole there for it. Then reverse that procedure putting it back in. Takes all of five minutes and worth the 65# loss.
Now all you need is some C/F parts to lighten it up.
Enjoy the car!!
#14
MBWorld Fanatic!
#15
MBWorld Fanatic!
Thread Starter
Good luck!! You will have a BLAST!!
Honestly, lose the passenger seat. It takes 5 minutes to remove and its 65 ugly pounds. Run it forward all the way and remove the two bolts on the rear rails. Then pop the cover off the seat belt cover and unplug it and remove the one bolt holding the seat belt. The run the seat back and remove the two front bolts. Then LASTLY unplug the four plugs under the front and then remove. I usually take the lose passenger seat belt and bolt it to the hole in the floor where it naturally falls because theres a hole there for it. Then reverse that procedure putting it back in. Takes all of five minutes and worth the 65# loss.
Now all you need is some C/F parts to lighten it up.
Enjoy the car!!
Honestly, lose the passenger seat. It takes 5 minutes to remove and its 65 ugly pounds. Run it forward all the way and remove the two bolts on the rear rails. Then pop the cover off the seat belt cover and unplug it and remove the one bolt holding the seat belt. The run the seat back and remove the two front bolts. Then LASTLY unplug the four plugs under the front and then remove. I usually take the lose passenger seat belt and bolt it to the hole in the floor where it naturally falls because theres a hole there for it. Then reverse that procedure putting it back in. Takes all of five minutes and worth the 65# loss.
Now all you need is some C/F parts to lighten it up.
Enjoy the car!!
My tech is coming over and helping me lose some weight... He said to do this too, but the car has to go into the dealer after to get the code cleared right??
Anyone got some suggestions to start with for rear tire PSI?? 20lbs?
#16
MBWorld Fanatic!
Thread Starter
I forgot to ask... When I switch to the race tune...
Should I fill the tank with 105oct fuel then run it for a bit with the 94oct ECU to burn off anything left in the tank and fuel system that isn't 105 oct..?
What do you guys do?
Should I fill the tank with 105oct fuel then run it for a bit with the 94oct ECU to burn off anything left in the tank and fuel system that isn't 105 oct..?
What do you guys do?
#18
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2014 Audi RS7
I would never notice "another" light to push as many as I have.
Will the scan tool we have clear that code? I've never tried but if so it only costs $99 and well worth the expense in the long run.
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2012 CTS-V
Secondary ECU is on route to Weistec for a 105 octane race fuel map.
Also got a few more goodies in the mail
Also switching my main tune to a Weistec 94 octane once my race fuel ecu is back.
Will post results, hopefully weather is decent friday for street legals.
Gonna run in M mode, using light weight battery (15lbs), jack removed and back seats removed.
Any suggestions on what PSI to run the Hoosier DOT drag radials at and how long to burn out for?
Thanks fellas.
Also got a few more goodies in the mail
Also switching my main tune to a Weistec 94 octane once my race fuel ecu is back.
Will post results, hopefully weather is decent friday for street legals.
Gonna run in M mode, using light weight battery (15lbs), jack removed and back seats removed.
Any suggestions on what PSI to run the Hoosier DOT drag radials at and how long to burn out for?
Thanks fellas.
Are those Mercedes wheels?
Are you using spacers in the rear to help clear the brakes?