Manual mode - extra wear on transmission?
#1
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'10 C63 AMG
Manual mode - extra wear on transmission?
So I recently started using manual mode once the car is to operating temps and I seriously don't think I can go back to C mode. Holding your revs through a corner is way too much fun.
I usually let the car downshift automatically from 4th gear coming to a stop which feels pretty smooth - almost exactly like it does in C mode.
My question is, will driving in M mode (say casually shifting around 2k-3k rpms, similar to that in C) put extra wear on the transmission compared to just leaving it in C mode?
I have a 2010 so the torque converter transmissions, but I would be interested in hearing opinions on the MCT as well
I usually let the car downshift automatically from 4th gear coming to a stop which feels pretty smooth - almost exactly like it does in C mode.
My question is, will driving in M mode (say casually shifting around 2k-3k rpms, similar to that in C) put extra wear on the transmission compared to just leaving it in C mode?
I have a 2010 so the torque converter transmissions, but I would be interested in hearing opinions on the MCT as well
#2
Senior Member
I would assume so, judging by the fact that the shifts are more abrupt, but don't think by much.
I love driving in M mode, only annoying thing is having to take off in 1st gear everytime.
I love driving in M mode, only annoying thing is having to take off in 1st gear everytime.
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C63 P31
Hmm… I almost never let the computer downshift for me when I drive in M-mode. I'm probably putting some crazy wear on my engine now that I think about it.
Is it really that bad to rely on engine braking instead of your brakes? Anyone chime in?
Is it really that bad to rely on engine braking instead of your brakes? Anyone chime in?
#6
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The old saying is "brakes are cheaper than synchros." Updated, it's "brakes are cheaper than transmission clutch packs."
#7
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should be fine with the blips.
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#10
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2017 Mini Cooper S Clubman ALL4 - British Racing Green
There is a laundry list of problems lol.
Air Intake gasket (warranty)
Ignition failure, entire steering column replaced (warranty)
Rear window sunshade (warranty)
both rear lights cratered and smoked, burnt plastic smell, hmmm (warranty)
both fuel pumps (warranty)
Secondary Air injection failure, pump works, but something else in the chain is failing (currently diagnosing, no warranty, working on it myself)
HVAC Blower motor seized up (no warranty, working on it myself, not the AC compressor thankfully)
Clearcoat on the roof rails around the roof rack mounts is peeling off (not much I can do about that)
Had a transmission issue around 45k miles, but they could never reproduce it or diagnose it, on 2 occasions I hit the gas while in gear going left, and the engine just redlined, gears did not engage
I have consistent ticking now, not just before it warms up, I plan on pulling the valve covers, I suspect warn cam lobes.
Sounds very anemic when I start it, like it is starving for air, no fun rumble. I suspect this may be related to the secondary air injection problems, since the purpose of that is emissions, it pumps more air into the engine to help heat up the cats faster.
Thats what I can remember off hand. I suspect I got a semi lemon, but I love my lemon non the less lol.
Air Intake gasket (warranty)
Ignition failure, entire steering column replaced (warranty)
Rear window sunshade (warranty)
both rear lights cratered and smoked, burnt plastic smell, hmmm (warranty)
both fuel pumps (warranty)
Secondary Air injection failure, pump works, but something else in the chain is failing (currently diagnosing, no warranty, working on it myself)
HVAC Blower motor seized up (no warranty, working on it myself, not the AC compressor thankfully)
Clearcoat on the roof rails around the roof rack mounts is peeling off (not much I can do about that)
Had a transmission issue around 45k miles, but they could never reproduce it or diagnose it, on 2 occasions I hit the gas while in gear going left, and the engine just redlined, gears did not engage
I have consistent ticking now, not just before it warms up, I plan on pulling the valve covers, I suspect warn cam lobes.
Sounds very anemic when I start it, like it is starving for air, no fun rumble. I suspect this may be related to the secondary air injection problems, since the purpose of that is emissions, it pumps more air into the engine to help heat up the cats faster.
Thats what I can remember off hand. I suspect I got a semi lemon, but I love my lemon non the less lol.
#11
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2010 Irridium Silver MB C63 AMG Sedan
There is a laundry list of problems lol.
Air Intake gasket (warranty)
Ignition failure, entire steering column replaced (warranty)
Rear window sunshade (warranty)
both rear lights cratered and smoked, burnt plastic smell, hmmm (warranty)
both fuel pumps (warranty)
Secondary Air injection failure, pump works, but something else in the chain is failing (currently diagnosing, no warranty, working on it myself)
HVAC Blower motor seized up (no warranty, working on it myself, not the AC compressor thankfully)
Clearcoat on the roof rails around the roof rack mounts is peeling off (not much I can do about that)
Had a transmission issue around 45k miles, but they could never reproduce it or diagnose it, on 2 occasions I hit the gas while in gear going left, and the engine just redlined, gears did not engage
I have consistent ticking now, not just before it warms up, I plan on pulling the valve covers, I suspect warn cam lobes.
Sounds very anemic when I start it, like it is starving for air, no fun rumble. I suspect this may be related to the secondary air injection problems, since the purpose of that is emissions, it pumps more air into the engine to help heat up the cats faster.
Thats what I can remember off hand. I suspect I got a semi lemon, but I love my lemon non the less lol.
Air Intake gasket (warranty)
Ignition failure, entire steering column replaced (warranty)
Rear window sunshade (warranty)
both rear lights cratered and smoked, burnt plastic smell, hmmm (warranty)
both fuel pumps (warranty)
Secondary Air injection failure, pump works, but something else in the chain is failing (currently diagnosing, no warranty, working on it myself)
HVAC Blower motor seized up (no warranty, working on it myself, not the AC compressor thankfully)
Clearcoat on the roof rails around the roof rack mounts is peeling off (not much I can do about that)
Had a transmission issue around 45k miles, but they could never reproduce it or diagnose it, on 2 occasions I hit the gas while in gear going left, and the engine just redlined, gears did not engage
I have consistent ticking now, not just before it warms up, I plan on pulling the valve covers, I suspect warn cam lobes.
Sounds very anemic when I start it, like it is starving for air, no fun rumble. I suspect this may be related to the secondary air injection problems, since the purpose of that is emissions, it pumps more air into the engine to help heat up the cats faster.
Thats what I can remember off hand. I suspect I got a semi lemon, but I love my lemon non the less lol.
I mean everything from parking it outside for days, airport terminals with corrosive Calcium dripping on it, to commuting everyday with it over many miles to work, hauling bikes, dogs, etc, not to mention the wet Seattle weather you live in...
#13
Super Member
That's awesome. No one could ever argue that they got more out of that car than you have. I hope I get as much pleasure out of mine. I guess a little sour has to come with the sweet...
#14
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no manual mode has no significant wear on the transmission than any normal mode. You say your transmission is slipping... are you stock? serviced every 39k miles? Make a video i want to see this. Automatics dont work like most people think. Quicker, harder, faster shifts cause less wear on the clutches. It actually wears them more for slow smooth gentle shifts. Think of driving a manual. Does is wear the clutch out faster when you slam gears or ride the clutch? If anything it may pro-long it lol. Heat is what kills automatics.
#15
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2017 Mini Cooper S Clubman ALL4 - British Racing Green
Heavy slipping on gear shifts, between 3 and 4 and 4 and 5 in manual mode, about 500 rpm worth of silppage, before engage.
I should have been more specific, not neccesarily more wear in M mode, rather mid range (4k to 5k) downshifts take their toll.
And yes, regular fluid changes, first one at 45k, was a little late, second one at 85k. I ran out of time on the second one, so I did not change the TC fluid (don't do tranny flush in winter in DC when its freaking cold and dark out).
I plan on doing that in the next few weeks time permitting. I am putting together a parts and cost list for service, someone did it in another thread (also about slippage between 3 and 4), I am hoping they drop the parts list soon so I do not buy any extras.
I should have been more specific, not neccesarily more wear in M mode, rather mid range (4k to 5k) downshifts take their toll.
And yes, regular fluid changes, first one at 45k, was a little late, second one at 85k. I ran out of time on the second one, so I did not change the TC fluid (don't do tranny flush in winter in DC when its freaking cold and dark out).
I plan on doing that in the next few weeks time permitting. I am putting together a parts and cost list for service, someone did it in another thread (also about slippage between 3 and 4), I am hoping they drop the parts list soon so I do not buy any extras.
Last edited by jvanbrecht; 06-24-2014 at 11:27 PM. Reason: Update
#18
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C63 P31
I think the real question is how much blip is safe for the car. And by safe I mean relatively normal deterioration of the transmission. I typically let the car rev up 3 - 5k RPM in downshifts, and I'm beginning to seriously worry how much I'm reducing the cars life. I don't have a tune and my car typically only blips up 2 - 3k rpm in S+ mode, which I believe is a safe range.
But to be honest, I love the high rev blips. Especially with a straight pipe res delete, its a serious head turner and catches a lot of attention.
But to be honest, I love the high rev blips. Especially with a straight pipe res delete, its a serious head turner and catches a lot of attention.
Last edited by CMC-63; 06-25-2014 at 11:20 AM.
#19
MBWorld Fanatic!
I think the real question is how much blip is safe for the car. And by safe I mean relatively normal deterioration of the transmission. I typically let the car rev up 3 - 5k RPM in downshifts, and I'm beginning to seriously worry how much I'm reducing the cars life. I don't have a tune and my car typically only blips up 2 - 3k rpm in S+ mode, which I believe is a safe range. But to be honest, I love the high rev blips. Especially with a straight pipe res delete, its a serious head turner and catches a lot of attention.
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#22
Super Member
no manual mode has no significant wear on the transmission than any normal mode. You say your transmission is slipping... are you stock? serviced every 39k miles? Make a video i want to see this. Automatics dont work like most people think. Quicker, harder, faster shifts cause less wear on the clutches. It actually wears them more for slow smooth gentle shifts. Think of driving a manual. Does is wear the clutch out faster when you slam gears or ride the clutch? If anything it may pro-long it lol. Heat is what kills automatics.
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2011 C63 AW
There is a laundry list of problems lol.
Air Intake gasket (warranty)
Ignition failure, entire steering column replaced (warranty)
Rear window sunshade (warranty)
both rear lights cratered and smoked, burnt plastic smell, hmmm (warranty)
both fuel pumps (warranty)
Secondary Air injection failure, pump works, but something else in the chain is failing (currently diagnosing, no warranty, working on it myself)
HVAC Blower motor seized up (no warranty, working on it myself, not the AC compressor thankfully)
Clearcoat on the roof rails around the roof rack mounts is peeling off (not much I can do about that)
Had a transmission issue around 45k miles, but they could never reproduce it or diagnose it, on 2 occasions I hit the gas while in gear going left, and the engine just redlined, gears did not engage
I have consistent ticking now, not just before it warms up, I plan on pulling the valve covers, I suspect warn cam lobes.
Sounds very anemic when I start it, like it is starving for air, no fun rumble. I suspect this may be related to the secondary air injection problems, since the purpose of that is emissions, it pumps more air into the engine to help heat up the cats faster.
Thats what I can remember off hand. I suspect I got a semi lemon, but I love my lemon non the less lol.
Air Intake gasket (warranty)
Ignition failure, entire steering column replaced (warranty)
Rear window sunshade (warranty)
both rear lights cratered and smoked, burnt plastic smell, hmmm (warranty)
both fuel pumps (warranty)
Secondary Air injection failure, pump works, but something else in the chain is failing (currently diagnosing, no warranty, working on it myself)
HVAC Blower motor seized up (no warranty, working on it myself, not the AC compressor thankfully)
Clearcoat on the roof rails around the roof rack mounts is peeling off (not much I can do about that)
Had a transmission issue around 45k miles, but they could never reproduce it or diagnose it, on 2 occasions I hit the gas while in gear going left, and the engine just redlined, gears did not engage
I have consistent ticking now, not just before it warms up, I plan on pulling the valve covers, I suspect warn cam lobes.
Sounds very anemic when I start it, like it is starving for air, no fun rumble. I suspect this may be related to the secondary air injection problems, since the purpose of that is emissions, it pumps more air into the engine to help heat up the cats faster.
Thats what I can remember off hand. I suspect I got a semi lemon, but I love my lemon non the less lol.
I've got to run out now and get an empty water jug so that I can start saving for my warranty extension.
#25
Member
i Dont think its because you are driving in M mode all the time
but because you are racing alot and your car has bolt-ons plus you had a supercharger + drifting