Manual mode - extra wear on transmission?

I usually let the car downshift automatically from 4th gear coming to a stop which feels pretty smooth - almost exactly like it does in C mode.
My question is, will driving in M mode (say casually shifting around 2k-3k rpms, similar to that in C) put extra wear on the transmission compared to just leaving it in C mode?
I have a 2010 so the torque converter transmissions, but I would be interested in hearing opinions on the MCT as well
I love driving in M mode, only annoying thing is having to take off in 1st gear everytime.
Is it really that bad to rely on engine braking instead of your brakes? Anyone chime in?
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Air Intake gasket (warranty)
Ignition failure, entire steering column replaced (warranty)
Rear window sunshade (warranty)
both rear lights cratered and smoked, burnt plastic smell, hmmm (warranty)
both fuel pumps (warranty)
Secondary Air injection failure, pump works, but something else in the chain is failing (currently diagnosing, no warranty, working on it myself)
HVAC Blower motor seized up (no warranty, working on it myself, not the AC compressor thankfully)
Clearcoat on the roof rails around the roof rack mounts is peeling off (not much I can do about that)
Had a transmission issue around 45k miles, but they could never reproduce it or diagnose it, on 2 occasions I hit the gas while in gear going left, and the engine just redlined, gears did not engage
I have consistent ticking now, not just before it warms up, I plan on pulling the valve covers, I suspect warn cam lobes.
Sounds very anemic when I start it, like it is starving for air, no fun rumble. I suspect this may be related to the secondary air injection problems, since the purpose of that is emissions, it pumps more air into the engine to help heat up the cats faster.
Thats what I can remember off hand. I suspect I got a semi lemon, but I love my lemon non the less lol.




Air Intake gasket (warranty)
Ignition failure, entire steering column replaced (warranty)
Rear window sunshade (warranty)
both rear lights cratered and smoked, burnt plastic smell, hmmm (warranty)
both fuel pumps (warranty)
Secondary Air injection failure, pump works, but something else in the chain is failing (currently diagnosing, no warranty, working on it myself)
HVAC Blower motor seized up (no warranty, working on it myself, not the AC compressor thankfully)
Clearcoat on the roof rails around the roof rack mounts is peeling off (not much I can do about that)
Had a transmission issue around 45k miles, but they could never reproduce it or diagnose it, on 2 occasions I hit the gas while in gear going left, and the engine just redlined, gears did not engage
I have consistent ticking now, not just before it warms up, I plan on pulling the valve covers, I suspect warn cam lobes.
Sounds very anemic when I start it, like it is starving for air, no fun rumble. I suspect this may be related to the secondary air injection problems, since the purpose of that is emissions, it pumps more air into the engine to help heat up the cats faster.
Thats what I can remember off hand. I suspect I got a semi lemon, but I love my lemon non the less lol.
I mean everything from parking it outside for days, airport terminals with corrosive Calcium dripping on it, to commuting everyday with it over many miles to work, hauling bikes, dogs, etc, not to mention the wet Seattle weather you live in...
I should have been more specific, not neccesarily more wear in M mode, rather mid range (4k to 5k) downshifts take their toll.
And yes, regular fluid changes, first one at 45k, was a little late, second one at 85k. I ran out of time on the second one, so I did not change the TC fluid (don't do tranny flush in winter in DC when its freaking cold and dark out).
I plan on doing that in the next few weeks time permitting. I am putting together a parts and cost list for service, someone did it in another thread (also about slippage between 3 and 4), I am hoping they drop the parts list soon so I do not buy any extras.
Last edited by jvanbrecht; Jun 24, 2014 at 11:27 PM. Reason: Update
But to be honest, I love the high rev blips. Especially with a straight pipe res delete, its a serious head turner and catches a lot of attention.
Last edited by CMC-63; Jun 25, 2014 at 11:20 AM.
Air Intake gasket (warranty)
Ignition failure, entire steering column replaced (warranty)
Rear window sunshade (warranty)
both rear lights cratered and smoked, burnt plastic smell, hmmm (warranty)
both fuel pumps (warranty)
Secondary Air injection failure, pump works, but something else in the chain is failing (currently diagnosing, no warranty, working on it myself)
HVAC Blower motor seized up (no warranty, working on it myself, not the AC compressor thankfully)
Clearcoat on the roof rails around the roof rack mounts is peeling off (not much I can do about that)
Had a transmission issue around 45k miles, but they could never reproduce it or diagnose it, on 2 occasions I hit the gas while in gear going left, and the engine just redlined, gears did not engage
I have consistent ticking now, not just before it warms up, I plan on pulling the valve covers, I suspect warn cam lobes.
Sounds very anemic when I start it, like it is starving for air, no fun rumble. I suspect this may be related to the secondary air injection problems, since the purpose of that is emissions, it pumps more air into the engine to help heat up the cats faster.
Thats what I can remember off hand. I suspect I got a semi lemon, but I love my lemon non the less lol.
I've got to run out now and get an empty water jug so that I can start saving for my warranty extension.
i Dont think its because you are driving in M mode all the time
but because you are racing alot and your car has bolt-ons plus you had a supercharger + drifting




