CL-Class (W215) 2000-2006: CL 500, CL 600

abc pump install

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Old 07-31-2010, 08:04 PM
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2001 cl500
abc

after sitting for a couple of days, its normal for sag. but if it sag in the front overnight or a couple of hours, you may want to look at front valve block.
Old 07-31-2010, 08:13 PM
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CL500
In with the engine cold the level is slightly below the top, this is wrong?
I bought the new filter and a liter of Pentosin in case I need to add, do you think is necessary?
I'm getting ready in a few days for a trip through Europe with the CL and return the Mercedes to take you to a diagnosis.
Old 07-31-2010, 09:36 PM
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2001 Mercedes CL500 2006 E350 4-matic
Originally Posted by matias
In my car just jump on red alert after three days the car stands in the garage, you can tell me anything about this?
When I start the car I give the button to raise the car up in less than two seconds, while running, I have noticed that down and the pump is not noisy, I have not yet clear as it should be the level of the hydraulic fluid, the rod measured in the reservoir has two sides and is written in German, you can guide me a bit about how the level has to be cold and hot?
Here is the translation for the German instructions on the dipstick: (Part number on the dipstick: A2203200259)

MOTOR AN - UNBELADEN - ENGINE RUNNING - NO LOAD - (I.E. NO ONE IN THE CAR)


MOTOR AUS - UNBELADEN - ENGINE TURNED OFF - NO LOAD - (I.E. NO ONE IN THE CAR)

Hope this helps.....
Old 07-31-2010, 10:09 PM
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2001 cl500
abc

i think your level is good. make sure you dont have any leaks.
Old 08-01-2010, 06:20 AM
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OK, very well explained, thank you both for the aid, where I had doubts.
Regards
Old 08-02-2010, 11:33 PM
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Formerly W215 CL600
My car is currently getting a new tandem power steering/ABC pump installed under warranty. The total would be $2400.00 without a warranty. The part alone is $1600 for the v12. I found some refurbished ones for around $800 but since its under warranty I will just put a new one on. My pump was leaking from the front around the pulley area
Old 08-03-2010, 10:55 AM
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Great job!

Usually when you want to prime the pump, you have to pressurize the ABC tank with compressed air. This forces fluid into the pump, while you're doing this, someone starts the engine and you watch the ABC pressure on the Star Diag computer to make sure the pump is good to go.

Raising the car up and down with the level control button in the car will do the same thing as a rodeo would, but a lot slow.
Old 08-03-2010, 02:45 PM
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2000 CL500 1992 300SE
Originally Posted by fasttoney
ok here it is. i brought a used pump from ebay for 250.00. so i took a huge risk and deceided to replace it myself, WITHOUT sds or rodeo. this is my results and how i did it, use this info at ur own risk. i will help where asked. ok i changed the pump, not going to get into deatains about changing unless asked. but i took the ebay pump, and put it on a vice. because it was used i know some fluid was in there. so while it was on the vice, i filled both tubes on the pump with fluid, then i turn the pump by hand the fluid went down, i repeated this several times. the reason i did this is to put fluid in the pump to pervent dry start. i also filled the input were the 2 lines go into the pump. it was alil messy, stay clean, stay clean. i put caps on the plugs holes, cleaned the pump up and now ready to install again. so i put it back in. a;so i replaced both of my motor mounts while i was in there.

ok, now the pump is installed, the pulley is on the pump, no belt yet. i filled both resevoiors with fresh fluid. then again i turned the pump by its pulley with my hand several more times, to make sure the pump had fluid in it. DID I GET ALL THE AIR OUT THE PUMP? im sure i didnt. so, after turning the pump several times. i finished installing the belt. now the scary part.

before i turned the key i knew i didnt want to start it right away. so i turned the key before the engine started, i turned the key off, so it wount start, to help further prime the pump. or i had the choice also to disconnect the crank sensor to pervent starting. let i let the enging crank over several times. then i let it start. i was listening for strange noise, aor something, but she started with no lights, i immediately check the fluid it was low.

my mistake, after letting it run for several mins, i topped the fluid to full. when i turned the car off, the pressure in the tank rose, and it was shooting fluid everywhere. this is normal because i overserviced it. when the car is running the fluid dont sit on full. darn my mistake. when you shut the car off it rises. (fluid level).

there is some other things that i did but not alot mentioned. like, fluid change, i did about 5 liters. i did the way this forum say do it, i also changed both filters, the abc and the power steering. this was my exepeiance. i did this because my pump was 250. IM NOT SAYING RUN OUT A BUY A 1200 PUMP, AND DO THIS! but if i had to i will. HAHAHAHAHA.

i did a leak check and ops check, drove the car 100 miles so far no lights, no noises, and i operated the up down several times to make sure it works. so far so good. there it is.

You Fasttoney.....are one badass ****.....
Old 08-04-2010, 08:37 PM
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2001 cl500
abc fix

thanks guys. like i said i took a huge risk. and the pump cost me 250. if it was a 1200 pump, i may have not done this. NOT
Old 08-05-2010, 07:41 AM
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Originally Posted by fasttoney
ok here it is. i brought a used pump from ebay for 250.00. so i took a huge risk and deceided to replace it myself, WITHOUT sds or rodeo. this is my results and how i did it, use this info at ur own risk. i will help where asked. ok i changed the pump, not going to get into deatains about changing unless asked. but i took the ebay pump, and put it on a vice. because it was used i know some fluid was in there. so while it was on the vice, i filled both tubes on the pump with fluid, then i turn the pump by hand the fluid went down, i repeated this several times. the reason i did this is to put fluid in the pump to pervent dry start. i also filled the input were the 2 lines go into the pump. it was alil messy, stay clean, stay clean. i put caps on the plugs holes, cleaned the pump up and now ready to install again. so i put it back in. a;so i replaced both of my motor mounts while i was in there.

ok, now the pump is installed, the pulley is on the pump, no belt yet. i filled both resevoiors with fresh fluid. then again i turned the pump by its pulley with my hand several more times, to make sure the pump had fluid in it. DID I GET ALL THE AIR OUT THE PUMP? im sure i didnt. so, after turning the pump several times. i finished installing the belt. now the scary part.

before i turned the key i knew i didnt want to start it right away. so i turned the key before the engine started, i turned the key off, so it wount start, to help further prime the pump. or i had the choice also to disconnect the crank sensor to pervent starting. let i let the enging crank over several times. then i let it start. i was listening for strange noise, aor something, but she started with no lights, i immediately check the fluid it was low.

my mistake, after letting it run for several mins, i topped the fluid to full. when i turned the car off, the pressure in the tank rose, and it was shooting fluid everywhere. this is normal because i overserviced it. when the car is running the fluid dont sit on full. darn my mistake. when you shut the car off it rises. (fluid level).

there is some other things that i did but not alot mentioned. like, fluid change, i did about 5 liters. i did the way this forum say do it, i also changed both filters, the abc and the power steering. this was my exepeiance. i did this because my pump was 250. IM NOT SAYING RUN OUT A BUY A 1200 PUMP, AND DO THIS! but if i had to i will. HAHAHAHAHA.

i did a leak check and ops check, drove the car 100 miles so far no lights, no noises, and i operated the up down several times to make sure it works. so far so good. there it is.
YOU DA MAN!
Old 02-09-2011, 11:27 PM
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03 SL500
Changing the ABC pump

I've learned a lot here. I am going to change the ABC pump on my 03 Sl500 myself. What, if anything, will I have to remove to be able to get to the mounting bolts for the pump? Thanks for any help or photos anyone can provide.
Old 03-16-2011, 07:06 AM
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cl 500 2000
how bad is, if the pump suck some air and then you put more oil in reservoir? my mechanic changed it, and after that he was running pump, and then he put in another 2l of oil, how bad is that for the pump itself? is it very bad, if it runs dry (or minus 2l - to normal position) for 1 or 5 seconds? does anyone have correct procedure from manufacturer, how to change it?
Old 03-16-2011, 03:24 PM
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for getting air out, is so called rodeo test. or is it just for rinsing the system. But im not shure, that's why im asking...

and this is nice post about ABC pump: http://www.benzworld.org/forums/r230...placement.html

Last edited by NAJLEPSI; 03-16-2011 at 03:35 PM.
Old 03-17-2011, 10:28 AM
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cl 500 2000
On drivewire side they are selling renewed pump for 100$ (a1 cardone). Anyoune bought that? is it any good?

one mark is for car running, other when car is still (both without a person inside the car). I can't remember which is wich, but im shure you'll find it in this forum or use gogle translate

Last edited by NAJLEPSI; 03-17-2011 at 10:57 AM.
Old 03-17-2011, 03:02 PM
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2004 CL500
Originally Posted by afaqanjum28
it is done to remove (bleed) air from the system and called for by MB. When just a hose is replaced, procedures don't call for the Rodeo. Air can be removed by using the "Level Control System" switch. This is accomplished by raising and lowering the vehicle with this switch. I guess the question is can you get all the air out by just raising and lowering the car. the one close to the handle is full, the the other is low. while running it should be on the low side. and it should be checked while running. I have noticed that down and the pump is not noisy, I have not yet clear as it should be the level of the hydraulic fluid, the rod measured in the reservoir has two sides and is written in German, you can guide me a bit about how the level has to be cold and hot?
the side that says MOTOR AUS = engine turned off - (no load in car)
MOTOR AN means the motor is running
I would suggest driving the vehicle for (at least) 5 minutes, cycle it through the ride heights a couple times, then drop it to the lowest (normal) setting, shut it off & check fluid on the MOTOR AUS side.
USE A LINT FREE RAG, CLEANLINESS IS IMPERATIVE

Last edited by mf219; 03-17-2011 at 03:06 PM.
Old 03-19-2011, 04:35 PM
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cl 500 2000
so, new question: IS RODEO URGENT OR NOT
Old 06-01-2011, 12:16 PM
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Just another mistake my mechanic did: on tester he saw pressure drop, so he changed pump, but it was the PRESSURE VALVE (just for info) there are 2 sets, one for front and one for rear axle (approx 2x 1000$)
Old 08-21-2012, 02:00 PM
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2004 S600
Can somebody please explain to me exactly how allowing air into the tandem pump will cause it to grenade as many have stated? I certainly don't understand how something as compressable as air could cause a device that is designed to handle fluid pressures in the 3000psi range to get damaged. I understand the dangers of running the pump dry thus causing bearing and piston damage, but air? That makes no sense to me.
Old 08-21-2012, 10:15 PM
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Same as running your engine without oil. It needs the lubrication of the fluid so the pump is not damaged from friction.
Old 08-22-2012, 12:50 AM
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2003 CL55 AMG
Originally Posted by 04S600AMG
Can somebody please explain to me exactly how allowing air into the tandem pump will cause it to grenade as many have stated? I certainly don't understand how something as compressable as air could cause a device that is designed to handle fluid pressures in the 3000psi range to get damaged. I understand the dangers of running the pump dry thus causing bearing and piston damage, but air? That makes no sense to me.

Answered in the CL55 AMG section of this forum.
Old 10-11-2015, 09:04 PM
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04 sl 600
please help

Originally Posted by Oxygen
Great job!

Usually when you want to prime the pump, you have to pressurize the ABC tank with compressed air. This forces fluid into the pump, while you're doing this, someone starts the engine and you watch the ABC pressure on the Star Diag computer to make sure the pump is good to go.

Raising the car up and down with the level control button in the car will do the same thing as a rodeo would, but a lot slow.
Changed the 2 front hoses on 04 sl600 hand spun the abc pump had one hose under neath and pump by hand until fluild came out that hose conection filled abc tank up hand spun a few more times once started after a couple of pushes the raise lower button worked also once started fluid started flowing from the return hose also before I started I supported all 4 wheel to about where it would sit while running was unsure how this goes but front and rear is very soft n bouncy and I don't get certain warning lights like when the doors open and u put in drive it gives a red message or if the parking brakes on it gives another red message I don't get them also I attempted to pressure the tank after to try and get it to wrk nothing please very lost
Old 10-11-2015, 10:21 PM
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Mercedes
Take it to Mercedes they can hook it up to their computer
Old 10-11-2015, 11:33 PM
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04 sl 600
diy

Originally Posted by tusabes
Take it to Mercedes they can hook it up to their computer
Others seem to have had luck anybody else trying not to go to the dealer
Old 10-12-2015, 12:13 AM
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04 sl 600
abc pump

Originally Posted by fasttoney
thanks guys. like i said i took a huge risk. and the pump cost me 250. if it was a 1200 pump, i may have not done this. NOT
I replaced 2 hoses and when done I hand spun the pump hook up the hoses then spun again till fluid came out them conected it and respond again now I'm assuming the pump is working cuz the raise and lower both work but it's bouncy springy the abc doesn't seem to be working try ed to pressurize it nothing working
Old 10-12-2015, 01:05 AM
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So your abc raise /Lower button does work to raise and lower the car ?


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