i know theres been alot of write ups on this. im mechaically inclined, and i want to know if i can changr=e the abc pump, without a sds for the rodeo? is there any other way besides the redeo, after changing the pump? thansk all

 

I assume you know that the the new pump must be pressurized prior to starting the engine. As far as the Rodeo process is concerned, it is done to remove (bleed) air from the system and called for by MB. When just a hose is replaced, procedures don't call for the Rodeo. Air can be removed by using the "Level Control System" switch. This is accomplished by raising and lowering the vehicle with this switch. I guess the question is can you get all the air out by just raising and lowering the car. I don't know the answer but I do know that you don't want to run the pump dry as you'll be buying another. Hopefully someone can shed more light on this.

 

thanks jud. i spoke to oxygen and he shed some light on this. he said i will have to induce 15psi on the tank. to prime the pump.

 

So what did he say about the rodeo requirement? The more I read the procedures in the MB Manual library dvd for the CL and S models, it sounds like you only do the rodeo when you do a system flush.

 

he said the rodeo is for getting air out the system/ changing the fluid.

 

So it's not needed when changing the pump?

 

i think its a mb recomendation. so everyone does it. im thinking about changing the pump myself, tow it to the shop for the rodeo. ill put an update on here.

 

Hello fello MB'erz. Jus curious wat do stealerships chargethese days for a rodeo test, Ive never gotten one and will be recycling my fluid soon and will get the rodeo to test my pump. thanks in advance

 

I think it best you check with your local stealer(s). I live in Florida and was quoted $500 from one stealer to change the tranny fluid and filter (pan service only) and $350 by another 50 miles away.

 

Hello, what is your opinion on a change of the fluid, it is necessary washing or more, I wonder why the Mercedes dealer told me it takes four washes, that's true or are they kidding me?
Regards

 

Are you talking about the ABC system or the tranny and by washes, do you mean flushes?

 

Yes, I am speaking of the ABC system, the dealership told me that it is necessary four rinses before putting the new hydraulic fluid, is how you do it?

 

According to the Mercedes Star Service Manual, the procedure for flushing the ABC system calls for running 10 liters of Pentosin, the ABC system hydraulic fluid, through it. The system holds about 5 liters. The filter is also replaced.

 

Then the dealer's clueless here because I said I would need four rinses, a total of 16 liters with two filter changes and the ABC system as they need 4 liters of hydraulic fluid.

 

Where do you live?

 

Madrid-Spain

 

I read on one of the MB forums about changing the filter twice. However, MB doesn't recommend it and when you think about it, it makes no sense. When the system is flushed, the return line to the pump is disconnected and inserted in a container to collect the old fluid. At no time does the old fluid go thru the pump where the filter is located. Good luck.

 

Thanks Jud, I do nothing at the moment, this week I'm traveling in Europe with the CL500 and probably turn I do, the ABC now works well, falling only three days after the front-side driver I have noticed no loss of hydraulic oil and the pump does not make any noise, if the car is down in the garage when booting I get the red warning but if I give the button to raise the car responds immediately, in less than two seconds is in its normal running position, because of your background you see any danger in this?

 

I would just make sure there are no leaks in the system. Check your hoses/lines and shocks to be sure. One of the main problems with the ABC is leakage which can run the pump dry. When that happens, you're looking at a serious repair bill. My '02 CL will drop (left front) after a week or so of sitting and has done so ever since I bought it in '04. There are no external leaks to my knowledge and it comes right up after start up and then movement of the car. MB says this is normal due to internal seepage as no o-rings are used in the valves. They did a flush, replaced a valve under warranty and a high pressure hose under recall but the car still drops. I believe MB says if the car drops within a week, it needs to be looked at. I hope this helps and have a nice trip.

 

ok here it is. i brought a used pump from ebay for 250.00. so i took a huge risk and deceided to replace it myself, WITHOUT sds or rodeo. this is my results and how i did it, use this info at ur own risk. i will help where asked. ok i changed the pump, not going to get into deatains about changing unless asked. but i took the ebay pump, and put it on a vice. because it was used i know some fluid was in there. so while it was on the vice, i filled both tubes on the pump with fluid, then i turn the pump by hand the fluid went down, i repeated this several times. the reason i did this is to put fluid in the pump to pervent dry start. i also filled the input were the 2 lines go into the pump. it was alil messy, stay clean, stay clean. i put caps on the plugs holes, cleaned the pump up and now ready to install again. so i put it back in. a;so i replaced both of my motor mounts while i was in there.

ok, now the pump is installed, the pulley is on the pump, no belt yet. i filled both resevoiors with fresh fluid. then again i turned the pump by its pulley with my hand several more times, to make sure the pump had fluid in it. DID I GET ALL THE AIR OUT THE PUMP? im sure i didnt. so, after turning the pump several times. i finished installing the belt. now the scary part.

before i turned the key i knew i didnt want to start it right away. so i turned the key before the engine started, i turned the key off, so it wount start, to help further prime the pump. or i had the choice also to disconnect the crank sensor to pervent starting. let i let the enging crank over several times. then i let it start. i was listening for strange noise, aor something, but she started with no lights, i immediately check the fluid it was low.

my mistake, after letting it run for several mins, i topped the fluid to full. when i turned the car off, the pressure in the tank rose, and it was shooting fluid everywhere. this is normal because i overserviced it. when the car is running the fluid dont sit on full. darn my mistake. when you shut the car off it rises. (fluid level).

there is some other things that i did but not alot mentioned. like, fluid change, i did about 5 liters. i did the way this forum say do it, i also changed both filters, the abc and the power steering. this was my exepeiance. i did this because my pump was 250. IM NOT SAYING RUN OUT A BUY A 1200 PUMP, AND DO THIS! but if i had to i will. HAHAHAHAHA.

i did a leak check and ops check, drove the car 100 miles so far no lights, no noises, and i operated the up down several times to make sure it works. so far so good. there it is.

 

Congratulations on your work, hope everything runs well and is a route to all others who have problems with ABC

 

thanks matias.

 

In my car just jump on red alert after three days the car stands in the garage, you can tell me anything about this?
When I start the car I give the button to raise the car up in less than two seconds, while running, I have noticed that down and the pump is not noisy, I have not yet clear as it should be the level of the hydraulic fluid, the rod measured in the reservoir has two sides and is written in German, you can guide me a bit about how the level has to be cold and hot?

 

My car is like yours in 2001 and has about 70 000 miles

 

on the dipstick, there is like two notches. the one close to the handle is full, the the other is low. while running it should be on the low side. and it should be checked while running. it will probably read full when not running,