CLK 500 Problem
#1
CLK 500 Problem
I have a 2004 CLK 500 and lately it has a lot of problem.
First, all the lights on the cluster turns off, basically the gauges went dark, no gas indicator, mph, etc.
I'm not sure what is wrong with it
I run a diagnostic test on it and the only thing it pops up is P0600.
Can anyone help me with this problem
First, all the lights on the cluster turns off, basically the gauges went dark, no gas indicator, mph, etc.
I'm not sure what is wrong with it
I run a diagnostic test on it and the only thing it pops up is P0600.
Can anyone help me with this problem
#2
I have a 2004 CLK 500 and lately it has a lot of problem.
First, all the lights on the cluster turns off, basically the gauges went dark, no gas indicator, mph, etc.
I'm not sure what is wrong with it
I run a diagnostic test on it and the only thing it pops up is P0600.
Can anyone help me with this problem
First, all the lights on the cluster turns off, basically the gauges went dark, no gas indicator, mph, etc.
I'm not sure what is wrong with it
I run a diagnostic test on it and the only thing it pops up is P0600.
Can anyone help me with this problem
Last edited by zuzu_pali; 08-19-2016 at 07:25 PM.
#4
MBworld Guru
hey im also having the same problem. and the fan runs loud. but mine the car revs its self and also i got a vacume leak.
but i hope you get it fixed. i dont know why when i start the car the indicator turns of all the time turns dark fan comes on and thats the end of it.
but i hope you get it fixed. i dont know why when i start the car the indicator turns of all the time turns dark fan comes on and thats the end of it.
#5
The speed of the engine suction fan is controlled by the ECU. If the ECU cannot communicate with the fan, it will run on hog speed the moment the ignition is switched on. If this happens and the engine will not start, then it's likely a problem with the ECU. If the engine runs fine, then it's either a bad fan, bad wiring to the fan, or, you may also have a bad engine temp sensor. As a fail safe, if the ECU detects erroneous engine temp reading, it will switch the fan to high speed.
#6
MBworld Guru
I also responded over on benzworld...you have some serious CAN bus issues that are going to require a trained technician with experience in MBZ electronics to solve.
The following users liked this post:
zuzu_pali (08-23-2016)
#7
and i thank you for that sir. but were can i find the control unit N73 (EIS) {EZS and control unit control unit N80
Trending Topics
#8
#9
MBworld Guru
The EIS (a.k.a. EZS) is the Electronic Ignition Switch. It's where you insert the key to start the engine. The rear SAM is part of (behind) the fuse panel in the trunk. As I said, this is a very complex problem and is going to require a tech who is well-versed in the car's electronics AND has the right equipment (not just SDS, but the CAN bus diagnostic hardware) to resolve this.
The following users liked this post:
zuzu_pali (08-23-2016)
#10
The EIS (a.k.a. EZS) is the Electronic Ignition Switch. It's where you insert the key to start the engine. The rear SAM is part of (behind) the fuse panel in the trunk. As I said, this is a very complex problem and is going to require a tech who is well-versed in the car's electronics AND has the right equipment (not just SDS, but the CAN bus diagnostic hardware) to resolve this.
#12
MBworld Guru
There is a voltmeter built into the car - it's in the "hidden" menu in the instrument cluster. Or, just get a cheap one and attach to any 12v source (like the cigar lighter). You should have 12.6v at rest, no less than 11v during starting, and 14v+ at idle.
The throttle sensor is on the throttle itself - rear of the engine, below the MAF sensor.
The throttle sensor is on the throttle itself - rear of the engine, below the MAF sensor.
The following users liked this post:
zuzu_pali (08-23-2016)
#13
There is a voltmeter built into the car - it's in the "hidden" menu in the instrument cluster. Or, just get a cheap one and attach to any 12v source (like the cigar lighter). You should have 12.6v at rest, no less than 11v during starting, and 14v+ at idle.
The throttle sensor is on the throttle itself - rear of the engine, below the MAF sensor.
The throttle sensor is on the throttle itself - rear of the engine, below the MAF sensor.
its just very weird! so should i worry about the alternator voltage or ? because the alternator is not Bosch but Duracell .
with a p0120 were would you start rudeney ?
#14
also you said a bad battery might be the problem but what if its the alternator ? battery is brand new. its just weird as soon as the car revs crazy rudeney the esp comes right with it !
#17
im sorry, yeah i know i just forget because i keep getting new things and its over whelming . im going to take it to Mercedes specialist and see if the cars worth keeping . but were is the can bus located in my car?
#19
#20
Former Vendor of MBWorld
removing the throttle body doesnt require any special tools. if you have a simple tool set you can remove it. You do not need to remove the wire harness, there is a connector to the throttle body you would just unplug
The following users liked this post:
zuzu_pali (08-30-2016)
#21
Former Vendor of MBWorld
i agree with rudney though. you are having a bunch of issues, And you are best to bring it to someone who specializes in auto electric systems. Your car is pretty much a computer network that will require some time to diagnose properly.
As your friend said some of the codes may be old. Most scanners can tell you the last time the codes were cleared
As your friend said some of the codes may be old. Most scanners can tell you the last time the codes were cleared
The following users liked this post:
zuzu_pali (08-30-2016)
#22
He also said all the can bus codes I had are from the eis but he doesn't know if I need a new key or the eis module it's self . I'm going to try to take out cluster and clean contact and also with the eis and see if that helps
#23
#24
MBworld Guru
The "TCU reset" is actually the throttle body re-sync:
1. Make sure everything in the car is turned off and closed.
2. Turn the key to position 2 so all the dash lights are illuminated.
3. Press the accelerator fully to the floor, depressing the "kick-down" button.
4. Hold he pedal for 5 seconds and continue to hold it down.
5. Turn the ignition switch back one click to position 1.
6. Release the accelerator pedal, but leave the key in position 1.
7. Sit quietly and wait for about two minutes - do NOT open or turn anything on.
8. Listen for a "click" or "ping" noise form the dash.
9. Start the engine and drive the car for at least five minutes.
A bad key will either not unlock or not start. It can also cause the engine to shut off while driving if it loses communication with the EIS.
1. Make sure everything in the car is turned off and closed.
2. Turn the key to position 2 so all the dash lights are illuminated.
3. Press the accelerator fully to the floor, depressing the "kick-down" button.
4. Hold he pedal for 5 seconds and continue to hold it down.
5. Turn the ignition switch back one click to position 1.
6. Release the accelerator pedal, but leave the key in position 1.
7. Sit quietly and wait for about two minutes - do NOT open or turn anything on.
8. Listen for a "click" or "ping" noise form the dash.
9. Start the engine and drive the car for at least five minutes.
A bad key will either not unlock or not start. It can also cause the engine to shut off while driving if it loses communication with the EIS.
#25
The "TCU reset" is actually the throttle body re-sync:
1. Make sure everything in the car is turned off and closed.
2. Turn the key to position 2 so all the dash lights are illuminated.
3. Press the accelerator fully to the floor, depressing the "kick-down" button.
4. Hold he pedal for 5 seconds and continue to hold it down.
5. Turn the ignition switch back one click to position 1.
6. Release the accelerator pedal, but leave the key in position 1.
7. Sit quietly and wait for about two minutes - do NOT open or turn anything on.
8. Listen for a "click" or "ping" noise form the dash.
9. Start the engine and drive the car for at least five minutes.
A bad key will either not unlock or not start. It can also cause the engine to shut off while driving if it loses communication with the EIS.
1. Make sure everything in the car is turned off and closed.
2. Turn the key to position 2 so all the dash lights are illuminated.
3. Press the accelerator fully to the floor, depressing the "kick-down" button.
4. Hold he pedal for 5 seconds and continue to hold it down.
5. Turn the ignition switch back one click to position 1.
6. Release the accelerator pedal, but leave the key in position 1.
7. Sit quietly and wait for about two minutes - do NOT open or turn anything on.
8. Listen for a "click" or "ping" noise form the dash.
9. Start the engine and drive the car for at least five minutes.
A bad key will either not unlock or not start. It can also cause the engine to shut off while driving if it loses communication with the EIS.