SRS visit workshop, steering squib/clock spring
#1
Member
Thread Starter
SRS visit workshop, steering squib/clock spring
'restraint system defect visit workshop!' Had it plugged in today, fault comes up as steering wheel squib (permanent), is it likely to actually be this component or a connector etc? (Checked many things under the seats but couldn't find any loose connections) also had the rear covers of the seats off, the passenger side carpet up and all connectors looked solid, should I just buy one, if so, where's a good place? I've seen some that include the indicator stalk and cruise stalk and others without, does it make a difference? Will any from any 209 be compatible or does it depend on year/facelift etc?
Thanks.
Thanks.
#2
Member
When I got the SRS defect error code for the passenger seat squib it was suggested that I just fiddle with the connections a bit. I disconnected and reconnected them, arranged a little more length in the wire to them and reset the code. No problems since. I would suggest the same as a preliminary measure for you.
#3
Member
Thread Starter
When I got the SRS defect error code for the passenger seat squib it was suggested that I just fiddle with the connections a bit. I disconnected and reconnected them, arranged a little more length in the wire to them and reset the code. No problems since. I would suggest the same as a preliminary measure for you.
Am I ok to pull those connections out and contact cleaner and replace? No risk of ruined airbags and trousers?
Was yours a constant fault that never went, every time ignition was on, it's there and never leaves?
#4
Member
My fault code was constant. I even reset it a couple time before I did the connections and it came right back. I was just giving you what I did with my error for the seat squib. Your steering wheel squib may be harder to get to.
I was a little hesitant also but Rodney assured me that it was safe to work around.
I was a little hesitant also but Rodney assured me that it was safe to work around.
#5
Member
Thread Starter
My fault code was constant. I even reset it a couple time before I did the connections and it came right back. I was just giving you what I did with my error for the seat squib. Your steering wheel squib may be harder to get to.
I was a little hesitant also but Rodney assured me that it was safe to work around.
I was a little hesitant also but Rodney assured me that it was safe to work around.
If that doesn't fix it, I guess it's same story as I had last time with a fault on the dash, off to an Indy who will charge to plug it in (which will say squib high resistance) but that doesn't tell half the story, will most likely be a case of them ruling out everything else from one point to the next, then if it turns out to be the squib at fault, a new one of those, then have it fitted
#7
MBWorld Fanatic!
Thanks, I don't think my seats have air bags? Is there option to not have them? It doesn't say SRS on them and I've had the backs off and looked in the sides and they're hollow, I've seen pics of someone else's and there was other stuff in there that mine doesn't have :/
Am I ok to pull those connections out and contact cleaner and replace? No risk of ruined airbags and trousers?
Was yours a constant fault that never went, every time ignition was on, it's there and never leaves?
Am I ok to pull those connections out and contact cleaner and replace? No risk of ruined airbags and trousers?
Was yours a constant fault that never went, every time ignition was on, it's there and never leaves?
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#8
Junior Member
Just to be safe I wouldn't mess with any connections on the SRS system before disconnecting the battery and waiting at least two minutes for the capacitors to run down. Just me, but you all do as you please and be careful.
#9
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#10
Member
Thread Starter
Right, had it checked today by someone with more in depth equipment, he says the steering is all checking out fine and this system says it is in fact the SIDE air bag not the steering wheel
The one in the door then I take it.
After reading a few posts such as this;
http://www.benzworld.org/forums/c209...1581356?page=1
I'm hoping it's a simple fix, I've had this yellow connection out and unplugged it, sprayed and reconnected, it seemed to be connected fine, there was a rear side of it with another clip but nothing seemed able to come off, I could just see 2 wires going through, they were able to slide very slightly when pushed, don't know if that's relevant, but I wedged them with a piece of card and taped it up so they are pushed forwards fully all the time.
I'm now thinking of removing the door panel and inspecting the squib connector, is it safe to remove the connection to it with no power?
The one in the door then I take it.
After reading a few posts such as this;
http://www.benzworld.org/forums/c209...1581356?page=1
I'm hoping it's a simple fix, I've had this yellow connection out and unplugged it, sprayed and reconnected, it seemed to be connected fine, there was a rear side of it with another clip but nothing seemed able to come off, I could just see 2 wires going through, they were able to slide very slightly when pushed, don't know if that's relevant, but I wedged them with a piece of card and taped it up so they are pushed forwards fully all the time.
I'm now thinking of removing the door panel and inspecting the squib connector, is it safe to remove the connection to it with no power?
#12
Member
Thread Starter
No, I haven't tried to clear them again after that, it would mean getting it plugged in for the 3rd time in 2 days at a cost of £30+ each go what I've done is book it in to an Indy to look at and just sort it out once and for all hopefully, again which will involve plugging it in again but at least they have STAR and will hopefully pinpoint what it is and propose what to do.
#14
Member
Thread Starter
http://www.benzworld.org/forums/c209...1581356?page=1
Have you known it actually be the squib at fault many times, or is it generally a case of a break somewhere or a connection not quite right?
#16
Member
Thread Starter
Thanks for the help everyone btw.
#18
Member
Thread Starter
Update: took it to an Indy today, PMW in Chelmsford, this time it came up as a stored fault, and allowed to clear it, so pretty much confirms it to be the door separation connector, that's the one I sprayed between the last plug in and today. And they wouldn't even accept any money for doing it
Thanks for everyone's input.
Thanks for everyone's input.