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My guess is that you have metal shavings in the torque converter, causing it to lock-up. I hate to suggesting throwing more money at this, but at this point, I'd replace the torque converter. Here in the USA, there are several shops that rebuild them. I paid about $300 for the one on my CLK550. If that doesn't do it, then a transmission rebuild is in order. Or, replace with a good used one.
Problem solved. It wasn't torque converter but small alluminium chips that sized a piston in valve body when got heat. This is the reason why at first ride in day everything was OK.
Yes, I fixed this. I removed conductor plate and flush it (with removed pistons). After this I didin't noticed any problems.
I still have some small chips inside because couple days ago I need to removed oil pan and I saw small amount. I think there are still inside torque converter or it producing aluminium chips.
One day I have problem with selenoid valve, automatic transmission was in service mode (just 2nd gear). I erased errors and still riding. That selenoid is faulty. During first ride a day after night changing gear from 1st on 2n is hard not so smooth like others.
Yesterday I had long trip to Germany (1200km) with full loaded car. During ride on highway I hadn't any problems but when I was 1km from my destination in big traffic jam I noticed any worring transsmision activity.
I start a ride, incrising RPM's and I noticed my car is going too slow than should do. After couple seconds car in spite of was on 'D' and had high RPM's begining slow. Just like, burned clutch or something like that. I stopped the car wait couple minutes to cool down and try drive again. Suprise, car is still ridnig but I had problem with climbing on hill. I remember on 'D' gear when transsmision was on 2 or 3 gear suddenly I had down shift or something because I had high RPM's of course 'check engine' indicator was activated. I had to take a longer stop, after that and switch on 'manual mode' and continue driving.
That actually sounds like it's in limp mode. In certain conditions (TCU errors and a few sever engine errors), it will go into limp mode. It locks in 2nd or 3rd gear so you can still drive, but it won't upshift or downshift. You need to get codes pulled from the engine and the transmsission. Note that you'll need a scan tool that can read the TCU - generic OBDII scanners won't read MBZ's proprietary systems beyond the ECU codes.
I noticed when oil is cold everything is okay without high yelling from GBX around 2000 rpm/min. After oil got warm the on D I feel car going too slow and when I'm pushing gas pedal rpm's increasing but speed not after that I see an cech engine indicator.
I think you need to fix whatever is spewing metal fragments in the transmission. I suspect it's the torque converter, but it could also be a bad clutch, bearing, or gear inside the unit. When I disassembled the 722.9 in my CLK, I discovered a cracked bearing race on the front drum. Being all packed in place, it would probably never be noticed, but when I pulled it out to replace the fluid pump, I saw it.
If you have the skills and facilities, you could drop the transmission, remove the gear set to inspect and thoroughly lean it as well as the valve body and servos. You'd also need to replace the torque converted, and flush the cooling lines. Or, just replace it all with a used or rebuilt unit.
I think there are too many variables and too much worked involved in fixing any of the existing issues. Get a new/rebuilt trans and avoid the headache.
I have the same leak under my 2004 clk 500 coupe, I am pretty sure it's just oil. Does any one know what the part number for the seal is? And what else should I change to stop that leak
09-12-2016, 10:53 PM
