Oil leakage from automatic transmission
#26
Junior Member
Thread Starter
This is what I found phisicaly.
Main rear seal (crankshaft):
A112 997 04 46
P-AS93x114x 12.5L2
FE/PTFE /FPM
TROCKEN MONTIEREN
Automatic transmission clutch output shaft:
MERCEDES BENZ
010 997 47 47
MEWD 43x58x7 FPM
Last edited by cutin; 06-29-2016 at 11:41 PM.
#27
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Please help! I can't believe! Still leaking...
I'm 100% sure the leaking comes from transmission. Same place and more oil on bottom housing.
Is that Seal pump ?
Is there something I missed during assembly any hidden o-ring on shaft? Maybey I Did something wrong.
Please do research on photos I attached before.
I replaced the seal on output clutch shaft, put some vaseline on lip and torque converter surface.
I'm 100% sure the leaking comes from transmission. Same place and more oil on bottom housing.
Is that Seal pump ?
Is there something I missed during assembly any hidden o-ring on shaft? Maybey I Did something wrong.
Please do research on photos I attached before.
I replaced the seal on output clutch shaft, put some vaseline on lip and torque converter surface.
Last edited by cutin; 07-01-2016 at 05:21 PM.
#28
MBWorld Fanatic!
OK, let's review. Every single person - me included - told you the leak was engine oil. Not that we thought it was engine oil, but that it IS engine oil. I will bet you my two children that was engine oil. So you replaced a transmission seal. Did you replace the rear main seal on the engine? Doesn't look like it. So what sort of help are you looking for?
#29
MBworld Guru
In the photos, it looks like engine oil to me, too. Since you asked for those torque values to remove the flywheel, I assume you replaced the rear engine seal? If so, then maybe this is the transmission seal leaking. Take a look a that shaft on the torque converter. It is very scored because the pump uses the older style sleeve bearing that will wear like this. It is possible the pump bearing is so worn, that the torque converter shaft wobbles and causes the seal to leak. The fix is to replace the pump, hopefully with one that uses an actual rolling needle bearing.
#30
Junior Member
Thread Starter
In the photos, it looks like engine oil to me, too. Since you asked for those torque values to remove the flywheel, I assume you replaced the rear engine seal? If so, then maybe this is the transmission seal leaking. Take a look a that shaft on the torque converter. It is very scored because the pump uses the older style sleeve bearing that will wear like this. It is possible the pump bearing is so worn, that the torque converter shaft wobbles and causes the seal to leak. The fix is to replace the pump, hopefully with one that uses an actual rolling needle bearing.
- Rear main seal on engine
- Seal in transmission that works with torque converter
We had problem with oil identification because engine and transmission had similar color.
I pour the new transmission oil (red) and I have red fluid leakage...So we are 100% sure this is transmission.
When I stay under engine and looking though windows in transmission housing I see the oil comes from connection torque converter shaft/seal. I think it's pump.
#32
MBworld Guru
The pump is a PITA to replace - you have to disassemble the entire transmission. I did this on my CLK. Find the videos published by ATRA for rebuilding the transmission and you'll see how to get to the pump.
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cutin (07-02-2016)
#33
Junior Member
Thread Starter
I think I will send it to the pro because I'm rookie. I didn't check anything before assembly because my knowledge about automatic transmission is realy weak.
Anyone knows what is the part number of rolling needle bearing ? Is replacing that bearing don't include any changes in other parts?
Anyone knows what is the part number of rolling needle bearing ? Is replacing that bearing don't include any changes in other parts?
#34
MBworld Guru
Checking EPC, it looks like the 722.6 uses the same pump as the 722.9, part number A7222700197. This makes sense because the .9 is just a .6 with a few extra gears. That part is the revised fluid pump with the needle bearing and it also has a new seal already installed.
#35
Junior Member
Thread Starter
I have already arrived from pro. He says it might be the o-ring on pump seal and I can do it myself. So I'm keep fighting with that...
#36
MBworld Guru
To access the o-ring on the pump seal, you have to remove the pump. Since the bolts are fromt he inside of the transmission bell housing, you have to disassemble the transmission to access them. Like I said, go to YouTube and lookup videos by ATRA (Automatic Transmission Rebuilder's Assoc.) for the 722.6 rebuild and you'll see what it takes.
#37
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2004 clk500 & 2004 bmw 325ci
after all that work and it's still leaking, that really blows. it does look like engine oil in the first pictures you posted though, maybe we are all wrong, it was transmission fluid. now you put in the new transmission fluid the new leak now looks dark red. I think my car is leaking at the same spot so I really need to know what fluid it is first.
#38
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2004 clk500 & 2004 bmw 325ci
so it's basically the torque converter seal and the pump seal that needs replacing. this should be be replaced together with the rear main seal.
Last edited by mbnz230; 07-09-2016 at 06:54 PM.
#39
MBworld Guru
That video is spot on! My advice, if you are going to the trouble to replace the pump seal o-ring, replace the entire pump with the revised needle bearing version. It comes with a new o-ring seal and a new torque converter seal, ready to install.
#40
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2007 BMW 550i
just wondering.. that seal you have for the front pump on the trans. Its not MB is it? I understand that company makes the seals for MB.. But when i had my seal replaced i bought that same seal from the same brand for 10$. with the same part number even i went ahead and bought the MB one next. the MB seal was 35% thicker at least.. and 12$!
#42
Junior Member
Thread Starter
I removed oil pump from entire housing and I'm a bit confused. I found the reason causing the leakage. It was worn sleeve bearing. If you moving it's going in every way. So, the torque converter wobbling and seal can't hold it properly. I had a damage a oil gear and housing.
I'm still wondering about small aluminium chips you see on photo and metal chips on magetic stick. It is normal?
Worn sleeve bearing:
Scratches on oil gear and housing:
I'm still wondering about small aluminium chips you see on photo and metal chips on magetic stick. It is normal?
Worn sleeve bearing:
Scratches on oil gear and housing:
#43
MBworld Guru
Metal fragments like that are absolutely NOT normal! Some fine sludge-like particulate adhered to the pan magnets is normal, but not visible chunks like that. What does the transmission bell housing where the pump mates look like? The pump could be chewing away at that. If so, it's best to replace the housing, though there is an aftermarket plate you can put in there.
#45
MBworld Guru
It's hard to tell with the fluid there and being a 2D photo, but it looks pretty scored to me. What does it feel like when you run your finger over the surface? It should be smooth. If there are any ridges or roughness, you need to fix that - ideally, replace the bell housing, but one of those aftermarket plates might work, too.
#47
Member
Wow, not bad, I think I will go ahead and tackle this rear main seal job.
Been using pet pee pad in between services, lol
Heck, even did a partial rebuild on the lexus by replacing the pump and TC, really not a horrible job.
Been using pet pee pad in between services, lol
Heck, even did a partial rebuild on the lexus by replacing the pump and TC, really not a horrible job.
#48
Junior Member
Thread Starter
I replaced the oil pump (used) and leakage stops.
Thank you for help
Worn sleeve bearing:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=reR0...ature=youtu.be
Thank you for help
Worn sleeve bearing:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=reR0...ature=youtu.be
Last edited by cutin; 07-16-2016 at 04:15 PM.
#49
Junior Member
Thread Starter
It's never ending story guys... Fu..k!
After 1500 km problem is back. When oil is warm and I want to choose a gear D or R enigine stops like a choking. I feel car want to go because I hear sound from brakes. I can drive but I need to relase brake pedal quick nad push a throtlle. Everything is OK until I need to stop a car on D gear. I noticed abnormal sound from transmission.
Is that torque converter (lock up) ? I still wondering about aluminium dust from converter.
After 1500 km problem is back. When oil is warm and I want to choose a gear D or R enigine stops like a choking. I feel car want to go because I hear sound from brakes. I can drive but I need to relase brake pedal quick nad push a throtlle. Everything is OK until I need to stop a car on D gear. I noticed abnormal sound from transmission.
Is that torque converter (lock up) ? I still wondering about aluminium dust from converter.