PatmanMBZ

First let me thank all those that contribute to the Forum. Because of you contribution you have helped me troubleshoot my P0299 error.

So far the EGR valve has been cleaned and all the connections from the air intake to the intake manifold have been checked. I replaced the seals between the intercooler and the mixer (just before the intake manifold). The problem still exists.

It seems the next most likely causes are either soot/carbon buildup in the intake manifold or the turbo vanes are getting stuck.

I have taken out the air box and considering removing the turbo to have it rebuilt. I'm fortunate that there is a turbo rebuilder in the Sacramento area.

The problem is that there are 2 connections from the engine the are clearly carrying a liquid (either oil or coolant). Is this an oil connection that has a intake and output back to the block? The bolt on the side/bottom seems impossible to get to while the turbo is mounted. The line to the engine has a rubber mount. Is it possible that the line can be pulled from the engine block? (there is no bolt or nut on the engine).

I need to either put everything back together and use my OBD monitor to watch the boost or get the turbo out to inspect the vanes.

While the turbo is not a serviceable component by Mercedes standards, it can be rebuilt on the bench.

Any advise or directions to remove the turbo would be appreciated.

Read more: https://mbworld.org/forums/e-class-w...#ixzz33zGL1S3F

isstay

Those are oil lines. You can check turbo shaft for play while on the car. It should have 1-2 mm play from side to side considering that it gets less when car is running and there is an oil pressure to stabilize it. Lines can be removed but I do not see need of that, they only carry oil and if they are clogged you turbo will be long gone. I am not sure if any one in the states can rebuild VNT motor, there are couple of places in Europe. Look at the compressor vanes and the housing if you do not see damage to them your turbo is ok.

PatmanMBZ

Thanks for the information. Your suggestion is exactly what I am trying to achieve, inspection of the vanes. It seems the turbo would have to be removed to perform the inspection. If that is true, the oil lines would have to be detached from either the engine or the turbo. There is no thought to the oil lines being clogged or blocked.

Is there a way to inspect the vanes without removing the turbo?

isstay

Yes, just take off the "U" shaped air duct between air filter box and turbo inlet and you will see the impeller's vanes and the shaft nut.

PatmanMBZ

It's becoming clear I don't understand the turbo internals. I expected to see vanes that adjust angles based on demand. Because of your information, I looked a little deeper for an internal diagram and it appears that vanes don't adjust. The most educated guess I would have now is that the actuator adjusts the speed of the turbo.

When I inspected the outside vanes, they were clean and there was virtually no play in the shaft.

PatmanMBZ

After a bit more review, it appears I found the answer to the removal question. It appears the bottom oil line stays connected to the turbo when it is removed. The line detaches on the engine side.

There is still a question as to whether I have a turbo problem or and EGR problem.

rediesel

I suspect it is an EGR or clogged intake manifold. You cleaned the EGR was it gunked up?

PatmanMBZ

The EGR had mild dust and no carbon or tar type gunk. It cleaned up very easy with either brake cleaner or carb cleaner.

isstay

Vanes do adjust but I was talking about the compressor wheel that you can see to check for damage. But if you have problems w/vanes been sticky or the motor not working properly then you should get code. This is how they look:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/GT1749V-GT1752V-GT1852V-GT1849V-718089-717626-turbo-turbocharger-VNT-nozzle-ring-/291083833401?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item43c5f2d039&vxp=mtr

kidturbo

Hey guys needs some advice.

Seems the red rubber insert on the turbo end of U-pipe from air box got pinched last time I had it off fixing an alternator issue. Well guess what, the turbo sucked it in and ate a nice chunk out of it.

Now for the bad news, bent a couple compressor blades on the way through. Amazingly none broke off, and they are not touching the housing that I can see, but it was squealing a bit when the wife pulled out tonight. That's how I found it.

So, can I just replace that compressor wheel? I've found the wheel part #, and have rebuilt a couple turbos in my earlier gear head days. But what I don't know is if these wheels are balanced out of the box or if that's gonna require a sending it off to someone??

Tks

isstay

You will have to balance the whole CHRA.

kidturbo

Ok thanks.

To those looking to rebuild, there is a cartridge assembly available for these 3.2L CDI and others like the sprinter van now.

Mine is a:
Turbo Manufacturer: Garrett
Turbo Part OE No: 743436-0001
Turbo Model: GTA2259VK

MB# A6480960299
GT# 743436-0001

Takes the: Melett CHRA # 1102-023-901

Some Google searching found it, and only been out for around 6 months now.

Sources.

In the UK area: http://www.turbopart.co.uk/index.php...ct&pro_id=7902
In the US area: http://www.xsboostturbochargers.com or http://www.melett.com/ to locate a dealer near you

My cost was $360 shipped, here in the states, and was quoted about the same from the UK dealer. IMO, gotta be way better than buying a used fleebay charger. Dealer said mark the housings upon dis-assembly, and it's fairly a straight forward swap.

-KT

isstay

Yes it is unless there is a compressor housing damage. Hopefully yours is fine, fingers crossed.
Did they charge core?

kidturbo

No core charge on the cartridge unit, a big plus.

I haven't pulled the compressor housing yet, but don't think it touched. Once I removed the "spacer boot" from the throat, it stopped screaming... I've even drove it to town, just staying out of the boost till the new parts come.

Ya can see in the attached pic only two blades took the hit. But it sure food processer'd a quarter of that boot before I caught it. Now where might it be hiding it...

isstay

You should be fine. Looks like they are bend inward, so no damage to the housing. Missing pieces depend on the size can be found in the intercooler or they are already burned, if they pass it.

josh8loop

I recently inspected my inlet air tubing for accumulated oil and found none. My inlet side turbo compressor blades looked brand new and I took the time to check for shaft play and all was tight there. I have 150K miles on it by the way. Also, from underneath I took the VNT actuator linkage clip off and checked for free movement of the VNT mechanism-no issues found and free movement observed. My turbo is in pristine condition and warrants no further interaction unless I decide to replace turbo piping seals in the future as a PM measure. FWIW

Micah / AF1 Rac

Last I had my turbo downpipe off I closely inspected the exducer and compressor sides, at 125k miles completely in spec, zero blade erosion, VERY little shaft play, no leakage. 146k as of tonight, boost pressure and boost response still better than new with current tune and egr defeated. I'll be pulling, cleaning and modding the intake manifold over the winter so we shall see how it looks and then performs before and after. While it's apart I'll be cleaning the intake side ports and valve tulips as well, I've had really good luck/process on other motors without pulling head to clean up though that is the best way to go. With my current straight through pipes dumping out the side of the back bumper cover you can hear the turbine wind down for a solid 5-8 seconds depending on oil temp at shutdown with the ear, over 10 seconds with my best camera/mic located 12" from dumps.