Jorode02

Hi my 300e suddenly won't start, it ran just fine and suddenly it stopped. i have been browsing forums but i dont find anything that is just like this.
i have checked injectors they are fine and the fuel relay is fine and the fuel pump is fine and the ovp relay is fine.

The spark plug wires is new and distributor is new. I checked coil and ezl and cps and they ar all good on ohms. but the thing is that my spark plugs only spark once. the have a good blue bright spark but all cylinders spark once. i dont understand why.
Another thing i noticed is when i crank the engine the rpm needle goes up and down between 500rpm to 1500rpm even tho the engine spins at same rpm. Is this the cps that is faulty?
Thanks for reply sorry for my rubbish english

Plutoe

My guess is that you have a faulty ignition control unit(EZL)---use your pulse counter to test!!----post the pulse counts

Jorode02

How do i check it. Pulse counter?, do you mean a multimeter? Mabye u have a link to some instructions or something like that

Plutoe

Google pulse counter---there are tons around---Google W214 diagnostics---where have you been!!

Jorode02

Okay i think i know what your talking about. Is it the light flashing and tell you what fault codes you have?
If that is the case i have checkt it. I made one of those pulse counters and i got 13 flashes and 33 flashes. I may have counted wrong on 33. Mabye it was 34 flashed. And again sorry for my bad english :P hope its understandable

Plutoe

Now you got it------the pulse counts must be correct, not maybe or should be---then what pin number did you get the pulses, therefore if you know what you are doing you would post like this----pin 7=33 pulses;pin 8=5 pulses; bla bla bla!!

Jorode02

I will look closer into it after the weekend. I have rented a car trailer so i can bring the car home on sunday. Mabye i can post some videos of my problem

Plutoe

Screw the vids----post the pulses and pins!!

optimusprime m1

gone with the wind

Jorode02

Not gone yet :P just long shifts at work so havent had time. But i did look a bit at it today and it suddenly fired on 1 mabye 2 cylinders. It is a real pain to figure out. But i wil run the diagnostic test again. But as i remeber there was only 2 plugs in the contact beside the battery. Is it soposed to be like that, not more plugs for diffrent parts of the car?
And sorry for bad english.

QVHK

I experienced no-start situations in my M103 before and each time they had a different cause. The CPS, fuel pumps (not the relay, there are two at the back of the car), and ignition coil.

The first thing to check in any vehicle with a no-start situation is normally the CPS. If a new part (about $40 maybe) is not expensive, or a good used part is available, try replacing the existing one and see if it cures your problem. But before throwing any money into this, back track a little and ask yourself why did you replace the spark plug wire and distributor, and did you replace them both at the same time? My lesson learned is always change these thing one at a time so if there is a problem you know which one is the likely misfit. If you still have the old parts and they still worked before you replaced them, put them back and see what happens. As regards spark plugs, are they also new ones and are they the right ones? Also, before the non-start happened, did your engine bay ever got wet by any chance?

optimusprime m1

Jorode do a check on your crank possition sensor [ CPS ] remove the cps leed that plugs in to the EZL this is the box on the inner fender . Find the cps wire that comes from the flywheel bell housing . Pull it off from the EZL , and check ohms it should be 650 ohms to 1200 ohms ,anything under 650 ohms then its no good.

QVHK

There are several versions of the M103 engine which may have different idling range. The factory idling guide is normally printed on a decal found on the front dam above the radiator. Mine is M103.983, in-line-six 3.0L, 12V, for which the normal idling speed according to the factory guide is 600 - 750 rpm. I rebuilt my engine a few years ago. At normal operational temperature, it now idles steadily around 625 rpm.

Jorode02

The 300 is alive again! It was the new rotor from bosch that was faulty. I was at the junkyard today and found a replacement rotor and it fired right up!
That straight6 is music in my ears!

QVHK

Congratulations on reviving your 300E! Yes, sometimes the engine is hyper sensitive to minor or inexpensive parts. Using genuine or OEM parts sometimes help resolve or isolate certain problems.

optimusprime m1

In my case the parts are Bosch ,alternator distributor top rotor And the coil .