h&r spring question
#1
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2000 Mercedes Benz E320 W210
h&r spring question
How much will cutting half a coil off the front lower my car? I installed H&R sport springs with #1 pads all around but the front sits over half an inch higher than the rear and it's hard to look at.
Any help would be appreciated. Just don't want to take too much off the front and regret it.
Any help would be appreciated. Just don't want to take too much off the front and regret it.
#2
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I can't answer your question but I have the same spring and was considering cutting them a bit before I install. Can you post a side view of how it sits?
Last edited by R2dMax; 12-16-2014 at 11:30 AM.
#3
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How much will cutting half a coil off the front lower my car? I installed H&R sport springs with #1 pads all around but the front sits over half an inch higher than the rear and it's hard to look at.
Any help would be appreciated. Just don't want to take too much off the front and regret it.
Any help would be appreciated. Just don't want to take too much off the front and regret it.
I cut one whole coil off and the front sat about a half inch lower than the rear...a half coil should be perfect.
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2000 Mercedes Benz E320 W210
#6
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2000 Mercedes Benz E320 W210
#7
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Needs to keep heat down when cutting. This is do-able using a cutoff wheel
on an angle grinder. Torch is a no-no. Recip saw will use up blades.
Hacksaw if you have lots of time and blades. You should understand effects
of metallurgy and not to raise temperature unecessarily.
Amount of coil to be cut depends on the specs of the spring and if it is
straight or progressive winding.
ghetto route: If you're simply going to cut for drop and to hell with the
spring rate, you can also consider placing the coil upright (plumb...or
place in verified 90º corners between 2 walls and floor...using it as a jig)
then using a simple laser leveler to identify 1/2" drop from the top of the
coil.
oh, another thing, some springs may require a few hundred miles over
undulating pavement in order to settle. would hate to have you cut new
springs, then find out that you'll need to pull them a few months later
to shim the front end back up.
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#8
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Didn't remember you had H&R springs. Did you switch from Eibachs?
Needs to keep heat down when cutting. This is do-able using a cutoff wheel
on an angle grinder. Torch is a no-no. Recip saw will use up blades.
Hacksaw if you have lots of time and blades. You should understand effects
of metallurgy and not to raise temperature unecessarily.
Amount of coil to be cut depends on the specs of the spring and if it is
straight or progressive winding.
ghetto route: If you're simply going to cut for drop and to hell with the
spring rate, you can also consider placing the coil upright (plumb...or
place in verified 90º corners between 2 walls and floor...using it as a jig)
then using a simple laser leveler to identify 1/2" drop from the top of the
coil.
oh, another thing, some springs may require a few hundred miles over
undulating pavement in order to settle. would hate to have you cut new
springs, then find out that you'll need to pull them a few months later
to shim the front end back up.
Needs to keep heat down when cutting. This is do-able using a cutoff wheel
on an angle grinder. Torch is a no-no. Recip saw will use up blades.
Hacksaw if you have lots of time and blades. You should understand effects
of metallurgy and not to raise temperature unecessarily.
Amount of coil to be cut depends on the specs of the spring and if it is
straight or progressive winding.
ghetto route: If you're simply going to cut for drop and to hell with the
spring rate, you can also consider placing the coil upright (plumb...or
place in verified 90º corners between 2 walls and floor...using it as a jig)
then using a simple laser leveler to identify 1/2" drop from the top of the
coil.
oh, another thing, some springs may require a few hundred miles over
undulating pavement in order to settle. would hate to have you cut new
springs, then find out that you'll need to pull them a few months later
to shim the front end back up.
#10
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