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Hi iam a new member and need some help to chase the problem...
Just bought recently E320 6Inline engine in very good shape and it has only one problem, blinking reserve light after 10-15 minutes of driving and then check ebgine light came...
I replaced gas cap -oryginal MB
Replaced 2 charcoal canister rubber hosses
Check connection at the purge valve/ cleaned with brake cleaner - engine bay driver side
Problem still exist
When blinking reserve light come then engine idle jumps about 150 rpms i would say, if no blinking light then stay the same about 600 rpm
Takes longer cranking to start the engine
Any help would appreciate , thanks
I don't know who's scanner you used, however you did not provide a VIN therefore my guess is that you have a 210.055 with a 104.990(HFM-SFI) engine---if so there is no P0455 for that engine!!
Sounds like you have been reading over at bozo benz--they always suggest to spray everything as a cure all---which in fact is misleading and does nothing but damage the valve\sensors that come in contact with the liquid.However for a DIYer they bank on hope and speculation for a cheap and quick resolution!!
However I do think you are on the correct path when you cleaned the purge control valve(drivers side rear)--the bad news is the valve is faulty and should be replaced if you want P0455 to go away!!
Thanx for reply ,my vin# WDBJF55F4VJ033418
So you saying ,cleaning the purge valve is not even worth it ????
If so then I need to buy a new one ? I check O'reilly store and Napa , the price is almost 200$ with tax and shipping, any other recommendation ??
Today on my way to work in the morning reserve started blinking after about 10 minutes of driving and again idle jumps up and down. After work I started the engine there was no blinking light, then came again and after next stop was gone by itself and idle is fine
Check engine light stays on unless I clear it with code reader
It's all about perspective---a customer will not accept a labor billing for diagnostics and cleaning that typically does not work--then having to tell the customer--well now because the cleaning did not work I now also have to charge you labor for the removal and install of the part.
We I and us say screw all cleaning time--replace the faulty part and get on with our lives---we are happy the customer is happy bla bla
However with homie DIYers, they would rather spend time on the car than with the wife and kids therefore their economics are very different---they can spend hours searching\listening to may pole ***** and bs jonnie on all sorts of try this and try that misinformation because their time is not billable!!
Wada you mean any other recommendations----do you want to solve the problem or live with the problem--if you want to fix the problem buy the correct part and get on with your life!!
Plutoe brought valid point.
Professional mechanics (I am not sure he is one) don't want to get their hands very dirty, spending 1 hr cleaning the part for $150, when they can just replace part in 10 minutes and with cleaner hands charge $170, while still making additional $60 on part markup.
I think you need to find a forum where fellow car owners can help you with DIY and where commercial spamming is not welcome.
Im just trying to find the solution instead of parts replacing.... I guess i check everything including fuel lever gasket and bottom of the tank hoses, also replaced by the chance being under the car fuel pump which had a small leak and fuel filter.
Yesterday i check the purge valve again , disconnected , and had clean it again , use some cleaner plus i used compressed air , put in the car , started. I waited about 20 minutes with engine idleing then took for a ride , its all good now ! Today short run plus fueling and so far so good , tommorrow longer ride to work and back , keep you posted then ....
Update, installed a new purge valve yesterday, today went to work and back around 13 miles each way and exactley same thing , nothing changed at all !!! What next ????
I "assume" you have a higher mileage 97 E320 - probably over 1225K/150K all to the good.
Sorry about the prior ranting - you are looking to do good for your MB - and I respect that - replacement purge valve likely overkill as compared to cleaning purge and intimate check of vacuum hoses in the engine compartment.
Frankly - the good news - is other that PO455 and slightly modded idle - you have not set off further/more-extensive codes and/or misfires... that's two very good things..
One path to follow - replace fuel filter - Bosch or Mann only under $20 - you have a two hose quicklie filter - do not use retail auto parts junk filter - and then use 1/2 $9 bottle Stabil Marine Formula (blue) to start fuel system cleanup - so you know over 18 years of accumulated fuel tank "junk" can trigger PO455 - after 2nd tank of fresh good quality premium fuel - then dump in the 2nd 1/2 of that Stabil bottle - you are looking for longer time between setting off the flashing gauge - if you show "improvement" from this path - then ultimately this path can lead to success.
2nd path - you have "minor" suspected leak - you have done research and checked/replaced two hoses - you need to continue that "hose prowl" back at the tank - and in the engine compartment - to see if there might be another offending party.
If those paths don't lead to improvement - again, your "code" at this point is minor - then you can choose to go deeper or choose to live with it unless codes get deeper - which involves smoke test and/or ultimately replacement of the charcoal cannister control valve.
Very cleaver and all this make sense....thank you
So more details :
Car has 159,000 miles
No exhaust smoke
The only code a have even after purge valve is P0455
I replaced the fuel filter from O'Reilly
Idle after purge valve got replaced is more stable but still slighly jumpy ( like 50 rpms ) and i feel and hear some kind of resonance in a whole car body , when driving or rise rpms on idle resonance is gone
I use ONLY Premium BP gas
Noet even two months ago when i bought this car i had put Sea Foam in the tank , exhaust fumes was stinky and dirty as hell, then got back to normal
Since last 2-3 weeks cranking start gets longer then before but always starts
No misfire
Oil cap replaced ( old has whole in it )
Two bottoms rubbers of intake are wet ????? Dont know why ??
Now im thinking maybe charcoal canister valve is the problem ??
Or some hose in engine bay but i dont know where to look for ? Related to this problem ?
It is a problem. Whenever it is the problem that creates the symptoms is to be determinate.
When you have neglected vehicle, you can't just plug the hole in the tire and not worry about wires sticking out the rubber on other side.
Yesterday i decided to dig deeper ..... I took off whole intake rubbers and throtle body tube, to get better acces to those 2 rubber connectors between upper and lower intake. I found that on the front one clamps werent tight enough , on rear one top clamp was completly loose !!! Also throtle was such dirty , biuld up was around 2-3 mm thick all around . I cleaned whole throtle body , checked all the tubes and connection , thighten all 4 clamps in it proper positions and fired up . Engine started right up , no longer cranking time, run smoother, better throtle response and guess what my purge valve started working after engine warmed up!!! First time i heard and feel by hand it is working since i got the car. I kept it running for a good 20 minutes on idle and run around the block, today my usuall way to work and no check engine light so far ....only thing i dont know is how this oil gets to the lower intake see on pictures ???
Originally Posted by kajtek1
It is a problem. Whenever it is the problem that creates the symptoms is to be determinate.
When you have neglected vehicle, you can't just plug the hole in the tire and not worry about wires sticking out the rubber on other side.
Hi everybody , recently i did a lot for my car , i replaced charcoal canister valve , purge valve , all the rubber tubes related to evap system , replaced all small tubes around the engine, replaced clamps for a intake rubber , tighten 2 rubber parts upper - lower intake , CEL reset --- since that check engine light popes up once a week average but there is no flashing reserve light !! When i open a gas tank for fueling a hear a pssssssst whiche wasnt before.
I check this current code i thats what it is below
Here is what my computer says as a pending code
Now current data and something is wrong with either O2 sensor ???? Am I right or somthing cousing it ? Notice red RICH/LEAN lamp
Im sorry for such a long post but im trying to explain current situation , thanx for any ideas
Hi everybody , recently i did a lot for my car , i replaced charcoal canister valve , purge valve , all the rubber tubes related to evap system , replaced all small tubes around the engine, replaced clamps for a intake rubber , tighten 2 rubber parts upper - lower intake , CEL reset --- since that check engine light popes up once a week average but there is no flashing reserve light !! When i open a gas tank for fueling a hear a pssssssst whiche wasnt before.
I check this current code i thats what it is below
Here is what my computer says as a pending code
Now current data and something is wrong with either O2 sensor ???? Am I right or somthing cousing it ? Notice red RICH/LEAN lamp
Im sorry for such a long post but im trying to explain current situation , thanx for any ideas
Anybody has some idea ??? By the chance i contact some shop and they say my O2 sensors are acting as they should , there is no more P0455 code but instead i have P0446 A --- evap valve ctrl malfunction ???
Car is fixed !! Last weekend have some time to look at the problem again , found that 2 wires going to charcoal canister valve have both + power ! One 11,5 v and the other 6,5 v , then becouse of lack of time to finding myself i put the car to my mechanic and he found the shortage , did the fix and its all good . 250 miles since the fix and no CEL light on the dash , happy camper
Sorry i completly forgot to share my experience and how i fixed my car ...... After all these above finally i got under rear right wheel liner and check the electric plug going to the valve , and both connectors had a positive + , one about 13,... Another 4~6 V, soo i called my mechanic and drove to him next day explained what i found .... After 6 hours he found a shortage and how both connectors have positive V , he fixed the wires and since good few months its all good and no more CEL light !!!!
03-18-2016, 12:03 PM
