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My 1998 E320 wagon RWD that I picked up last year started slipping into neutral towards the end of a 2 hour drive. If I turned the car off for a bit, the gearing, whether drive or reverse, would engage for about 30 seconds, before slipping into neutral again.
I found the the transmission fluid tube and noted that there was no cap on it, it was just open. There's no telling how much fluid evaporated through that. The electrical connector to the transmission was completely encrusted in dirt and grease. Even after hitting it with almost a full can of brake cleaner, I still had trouble getting the connector off. I broke the tab on the locking collar. When I pulled the connector out it was completely wet with transmission fluid. I also noticed that the wonders of biodegradable wiring insulation were doing their thing ... in other words, exposing bare wire. I didn't think the conductor plate looked too bad. There was one crack in part of it though. I'm not sure if I should be concerned about it or not. $200 is a lot of money to me. If I don't hear from somebody that that is vital component of the conductor plate, I may just give things a go as is ... with a new connector housing. The springs all looked good to me.
The speed sensor on electric plate is toasted.
Get new plate, pilot bushing as advised (seek Mopar on amazon) and buy 2 cans of MAF cleaner.
You will also need some ATF and dipstick.
Flood the plug with MAF cleaner before reinserting into new sockets and at the end, pull TCM and give it good bath with MAF cleaner as well.
Hopefully you had soft limp and the car will reset itself.
Other than luck, you will need SD to reset the codes.
Thanks for identifying that as the speed sensor kajtek1. Sadly, it seems I will certainly need to replace the entire conductor plate. It appears that this burning out it not uncommon. http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w140...ssessment.html
My guess is that low fluid levels caused it to overheat during that long drive.
From Pelican Parts, it seems that I'm looking at:
Code:
Conductor Plate $200.50 1 $200.50
Adapter Plug With O-Rings $15.00 1 $15.00
Transmission Drain Plug $2.50 1 $2.50
Transmission Drain Plug Seal $2.50 1 $2.50
Transmission Filter $11.25 1 $11.25
Transmission Filler Cap $7.00 1 $7.00
Transmission Filler Cap Lock Pin $2.50 1 $2.50
Transmission Dipstick (Tool) $31.50 1 $31.50
Fuchs ATF 4134 (4 Liter) $38.25 2 $76.50
Fuchs ATF 4134 (1 Liter) $11.75 2 $23.50
====================================================
$372.75
shipping $9.75
+ a couple cans of MAF cleaner from the local store $18.00
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$400.50
+ find someone with SD to clear the codes $100.00
+ possibly have to tow it to them $100.00
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$600.50
I'm sitting here looking at this total wondering how much of a gamble this "fix" is. If there's a 95% chance it will give me a drivable car, I may do it. If its only a 50/50 ... then I may just decide to sell the whole thing for parts ... I'd probably get $600 for it.
Will the "transmission reset" sequence with the key and accelerator not clear the codes?
I just managed to purchase everything in my list, except getting 8L of ATF instead of 10L, for $182 total off eBay. THAT is a gamble I'm comfortable with.
"Will the "transmission reset" sequence with the key and accelerator not clear the codes?"
Sorry buddy, but you will need DAS or equal to clear the codes, however there is one spammer member in CA who is advertising that he can do that without DAS-I wanna hear that one!!
Plutoe not only doesn't know much about the cars beside what he/she can copy from the net, but has trouble reading English as well.
As I wrote above, you might have soft limp, what does not require resetting other than ignition cycling.
If that is hard limp, that will require SD for clearing.
Nothing to worry ahead of the time. Put new parts together, check ATF level and take it for a spin.
First - as provided by my Amazon link - your "parts" list is covered like $185 + filler tube plug + cost of fluid which frankly I would peg at 7 liters, correct Fuchs is fine Autohausaz should have free shipping/.....
I have absolutely no idea where Blutoe/Boca comes up with some of his st*ff...
If you when start/restart your MB - it has normal tranny function - then there are no "hard" limp home codes - so no SDS reset will be required.
If someone has "hard" limp-home codes on start/restart - then "possibly" a correct battery disconnect (key out of the ignition) - with "crossing" battery cables for 1/2 minutes to discharge the system - battery reconnect "might" erase some hard codes - there are other deeper hard limp codes (generally mechanical malfunction in nature) that will require SDS reset - however there are "lesser" hard limp codes that can be erased with disconnect/discharge/reconnect..
EXTRA STUFF I NEEDED:
Mercedes Transmission Drain Plug Seal (10 X 20 mm) Genuine 1402710060 $5.23
Mercedes w201 w202 w203 w210 Transmission Drain Plug Genuine Mercedes $5.95
MB W140 W210 R129 94-11 Transmission Filler Cap ATF Filler Tube Lock Pin $7.95
Transmission Fluid Dipstick Repair Tool For Mercedes Benz 722.6 1220mm $7.69
Mass Airflow Filter Cleaner $8.99
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$35.81
Everything but the MAF cleaner was bought on eBay (price includes shipping).
I can't really say that everything went smoothly. I struggled to try to get the 7mm bolt inside the connector housing to thread. I compared the bolt to the one in the old connector, noted it was a bit different, and even tried that one with no luck. Eventually, after much cursing and nashing of teeth, I dropped the pan and valve body again to see WTF was going on.
new bolt from connector housing on right
I realized that the connector housing inserted much further into the receiver housing on the conductor plate than I thought. It threaded just fine. After I put the valve body back in place, I tried again, using more force to shove the connector housing in, and FINALLY got the bolt to thread. However, after all that mucking about, I think, in the end, I may have ended up stripping it ... without much torque at all. For the wary travelers to come, DO NOT tighten that bolt with any force. I MIGHT go back and use the bolt that was in the old connector housing, because it actually appeared to be a bit longer.
I reconnected the battery and dumped (5) liters of ATF in it. I then started it, ran it through the gears at idle speed, and kept checking the temp and level. I eventually put all (8) liters of ATF I had in it. After 30 mins, the transmission pan never read over 40C, even though the engine got up close to 80C. I still think I may be a bit short on the ATF. I will probably pick up another couple liters somewhere.
I took it for a short spin and it seemed to be going through the gears just fine. So, it seems my issue is fixed.
I'm starting to suspect that there might be a slow leak somewhere near the torque converter. I'm gonna have to keep an eye on it and watch the ATF level closely. It would be much easier to find if I had a lift. I got too damn tired of laying in the dirt on my back today to jack the car back up and look around to see if there really is a leak and where it is coming from.
I am concerned - just a bit - "Mercedes Transmission Conductor Plate + Connector + Filter + Gasket 722.6 $84.88"
The conductor plate would be China - which is not necessarily "bad" - frankly there are no solid reports - positive or negative on the China conductor plate - and I have not handled one personally to offier experienced opinion.
However - if the adapter plug did NOT come in MB-logo or MOPAR logi bag - then it is the China adapter plug - and yes, there have been BAD reports about short-term failure.
Note - the genuine MB/MOPAR plug - which will have recognizable poly bag as such - is a $14 Amazon or MOPAR dealer part.
Tranny filter - they are all "same" roughly, really - no harm there.
That tranny plug - you may want to revisit for piece of mind.
That bolt should be a clue that something is not right with new pilot bushing.
You come to right conclusion that bushing needs to be pushed into the hole and bolt is only for securing it. With new orings it takes some gymnastic to push it, but sure beats replacing new electric plate with stripped hole.
Main point the car drives fine now.
Even if the cheaper parts will not last too long, 2nd time it is way easier to replace them.
04-17-2016, 08:22 PM
