E-Class (W211) 2003-2009

Can someone who has 4matic do me a favor - visual Check

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Old 07-29-2015, 02:42 PM
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Can someone who has 4matic do me a favor - visual Check

I have a camber problem and I belive my steering knuckle is bent.

When I compare the distance from the tire to the threaded part of the upper ball joint the side with bad camber is closer to the tire.

I cannot imagine MB would have designed it this way so I assume my knuckle is bent.

Can someone take a look at their w211 with the double wishbone spring design and tell me if your distance is the same both sides?

It should not require jacking up at all. Just look between the fender and tire and see if the upper ball joint has the same or different space to the top of the tire.

Much appreciated! Steering knuckle is 550 so I want to be sure before ordering.

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Old 07-30-2015, 02:10 AM
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Originally Posted by ps2cho
I have a camber problem and I belive my steering knuckle is bent.

When I compare the distance from the tire to the threaded part of the upper ball joint the side with bad camber is closer to the tire.

I cannot imagine MB would have designed it this way so I assume my knuckle is bent.

Can someone take a look at their w211 with the double wishbone spring design and tell me if your distance is the same both sides?

It should not require jacking up at all. Just look between the fender and tire and see if the upper ball joint has the same or different space to the top of the tire.

Much appreciated! Steering knuckle is 550 so I want to be sure before ordering.

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Old 07-30-2015, 08:59 AM
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Just out of curiosity how come one side looks newer then the other? You recently replaced all front end suspension components correct?

It sounds like alot of work, but in your defense the safest way to decipher bent knuckle or not would be to remove the both of them and compare. Shotgunning a new knuckle without being 100% sure is risky business at 550 dollars, plus the labor to install new flange ect. Good for you though asking before replacing.

edit: I'd be curious as if maybe the specs for alignment have to do with the weight of the driver when only he or she is in the car and or the crown of the road. I'm no alignment guru but I remember when I did the romus calibration on my car the alignment guy was pointing out tidbits as to why specs differ side to side or a degree or two....
Old 07-30-2015, 04:44 PM
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I have cross camber of a full degree so something is bent.

I replaced the upper control arm hoping it was that but no change. Lower arms are new as well with camber kit installed. Like I said something is bent it's not an adjustment. And visually it looks like it's the knuckle. I just want someone to look at theirs and tell me yes no mine is like that or mine is even both sides.

I'm glad kmac took the opportunity to spam advertising without reading the thread. Well...read the first 5 words then stopped.

I'm doing the work myself but I still want to check before spending the money. Alignment spec is about -1.2 I am -2.2 just on that side.

In sum -- I shouldn't need to remove the other side. It's obviously a different shape. I just want to know if that's by design or if it means bent knuckle.

Last edited by ps2cho; 07-30-2015 at 04:52 PM.
Old 06-01-2016, 09:38 AM
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Hi there...old thread, but I am wondering if you figured this one out. I had a hard contact with a curb last week that did some damage to my lower control arm. I replaced that, along with the draglink/tie rod assembly, and lower ball joint. This is on a W208, but my remaining symptom is now just as you describe. The impacted side has very little clearance between this upper control arm joint/bolt and the inside tire edge. I am willing to replace the knuckle, but wanted to know if this did the trick for you before just diving in and potentially missing the target.

Thanks!
Old 06-03-2016, 02:45 PM
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Originally Posted by GettingThere
Hi there...old thread, but I am wondering if you figured this one out. I had a hard contact with a curb last week that did some damage to my lower control arm. I replaced that, along with the draglink/tie rod assembly, and lower ball joint. This is on a W208, but my remaining symptom is now just as you describe. The impacted side has very little clearance between this upper control arm joint/bolt and the inside tire edge. I am willing to replace the knuckle, but wanted to know if this did the trick for you before just diving in and potentially missing the target.

Thanks!
I haven't fixed it yet as I'm waiting for something else to go first. I've measured tire wear over the last 10k and it's showing no signs of issue now everything is aligned after the lower control arm replacement. Since I have no discernible tire wear compared to the other side, there's no reason to fix it yet.

The knuckle should be identical distance from the tire on both sides. If it's not, then yours is bent like mine is.

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