A/C blowing hot air. How do I reset climate control??
#1
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A/C blowing hot air. How do I reset climate control??
My air conditioning was working fine when I went to the car wash. When I left, the A/C is blowing hot air. I am unable to get the AC off button to work--it stays red. I have tried several ways to reset the climate control system, but the online instructions were for other models, and my car isn't exactly the same, and what I've tried hasn't worked. Can anyone help?? I think I just need instructions for resetting the climate control for a 2003 Mercedes E320.
#2
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1922 Ford Model T / no OBD
Can you post a picture of your climatronic?
Some of them have display that allows troubleshooting from driver seat, others need SD.
If AC is not coming up, that usually is indication of low refrigerant, but with about 7 sensors in the system - any of them can cost troubles.
Some of them have display that allows troubleshooting from driver seat, others need SD.
If AC is not coming up, that usually is indication of low refrigerant, but with about 7 sensors in the system - any of them can cost troubles.
#3
An old thread, but same problem. I have cold passenger air and hot Driver's side air.
Can you describe which unit can be reset with the display? It's a 2004 E500 wagon
here is mine:
Can you describe which unit can be reset with the display? It's a 2004 E500 wagon
here is mine:
Last edited by ttruex; 08-20-2017 at 06:06 PM. Reason: more info
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2005 Mercedes-Benz E500 Sport Sadan
The fan blower motor is located underneath the glovebox. Once you remove the cover you will see the big fan wheel and it has approximately 4-6 T-10 or T-20 screws that hold it in place. Remove the screws, disconnect the power cable and then install in reverse order, replace cover and your done. 30-45 minutes tops.
#5
Thanks for the reply, I obviously wasn't clear in describing the problem.
The air flow is fine from all vents. It just blows warm air from the driver's vents and cold air from the passenger vents when the AC is on. I can pull up the sensor data on the display, but I'm unsure how to use it to any diagnostic advantage.
The air flow is fine from all vents. It just blows warm air from the driver's vents and cold air from the passenger vents when the AC is on. I can pull up the sensor data on the display, but I'm unsure how to use it to any diagnostic advantage.
#6
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'71 Pinto
Pertaining to temperature differences side to side first step, check refrigerant.
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ttruex (08-22-2017)
#7
Thanks for the reply, I obviously wasn't clear in describing the problem.
The air flow is fine from all vents. It just blows warm air from the driver's vents and cold air from the passenger vents when the AC is on. I can pull up the sensor data on the display, but I'm unsure how to use it to any diagnostic advantage.
The air flow is fine from all vents. It just blows warm air from the driver's vents and cold air from the passenger vents when the AC is on. I can pull up the sensor data on the display, but I'm unsure how to use it to any diagnostic advantage.
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ttruex (08-22-2017)
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#8
Thanks for the replies.
I have a garden variety hose and valve setup from Autozone, and it did take some R134, but still shows low pressure on the intake (low pressure)side while running.(10-20lbs) I could not get it to come up after leaving the can attached for some time. Could that be symptomatic of another component fault? Or is there a trick to getting the car to take in more coolant?
I have a garden variety hose and valve setup from Autozone, and it did take some R134, but still shows low pressure on the intake (low pressure)side while running.(10-20lbs) I could not get it to come up after leaving the can attached for some time. Could that be symptomatic of another component fault? Or is there a trick to getting the car to take in more coolant?
#9
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#11
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1922 Ford Model T / no OBD
Troubleshoot, troubleshoot, troubleshoot.
MBMedic also has the best IMHO troubleshoot page http://www.mercedesmedic.com/ac-air-...le-codes-list/
The help is spread between MY and administrators can't make it into one.
From my experience all MB models starting in 1996 till 2010 have, or can have feature for reading the values on climatronics.
The pictured above 4-zones climatronic has REST button and will read the sensors, although I could not figure out if I can read errors on it.
Still reading the values at least 2 times per site advise will give you answer for at least 90% of the problems.
MBMedic also has the best IMHO troubleshoot page http://www.mercedesmedic.com/ac-air-...le-codes-list/
The help is spread between MY and administrators can't make it into one.
From my experience all MB models starting in 1996 till 2010 have, or can have feature for reading the values on climatronics.
The pictured above 4-zones climatronic has REST button and will read the sensors, although I could not figure out if I can read errors on it.
Still reading the values at least 2 times per site advise will give you answer for at least 90% of the problems.
#12
so I had another shot at it today. Only 10 PSI at the start, and very slow to accept charge. It took me 45 min to get it up to a little over 20 PSI. My wife had to go off to work, so I stopped. It started cooling a bit, which is an improvement, but I'm a bit concerned over how slowly it accepts a charge, and will see if the pressure remains the same when I check again tomorrow.
I think the low side pressure is supposed to be around 40psi, correct?
I think the low side pressure is supposed to be around 40psi, correct?
#13
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1922 Ford Model T / no OBD
You are saying it is not working, but you are not saying what?
Whatever you do wrong it has to remain your secret.
Whatever you do wrong it has to remain your secret.
#14
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'71 Pinto
Does A/C compressor turn on? No blockage in system and compressor does not turn on, independent or dealer can bypass low refrigerant pressure switch with MB DAS to activate compressor allowing for adequate recharge.
#16
yes, I can hear the compressor kick in when I turn on the AC. I hit it again this morning, and made some more progress. The good news it that it held pressure, so I don't think there are any major leaks. It took a while, but the low side is almost in the green now and it is cooling much better. Still slow to take in refrigerant, but it is taking it. Will get another couple cans of R134 tomorrow and see if I can get it up to snuff.
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rickdear (07-27-2021)
#17
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1922 Ford Model T / no OBD
Those cars don't have AC clutch and no low pressure sensor. Compressor turns all the time.
You need to observe high pressure what is #7 sensor on climatronic menu.
You need to observe high pressure what is #7 sensor on climatronic menu.
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Clarification to previous post, not low pressure sensor but rather refrigerant pressure & temperature sensor.
#19
Had a chance to tinker with it today. Put on another can of R134. Low side was in the low/mid 20s (psi). Went off and swapped out some bulbs on the truck and it came up to just 30 on the low side gauge after 20 min or so. The can was getting cold, so I assumed it was taking in refrigerant. I unplugged it when the can was nearly empty.
Climatronic diagnostic sensor #7 reported a value of "6" at startup, rose to 7 as it warmed, and ended at 8 when I stopped.
It seems to be cooling well now, so I'm going to quit before I break something.
I'm not sure if the compressor has a clutch, but when I turn the climate control off, I see the pressure rise on the low side. Turning it on brings a click, audible sounds of something whirring/hissing slightly, and the pressure drops significantly on the low side port. Must be some sort of "actuation device", if not a clutch....
Climatronic diagnostic sensor #7 reported a value of "6" at startup, rose to 7 as it warmed, and ended at 8 when I stopped.
It seems to be cooling well now, so I'm going to quit before I break something.
I'm not sure if the compressor has a clutch, but when I turn the climate control off, I see the pressure rise on the low side. Turning it on brings a click, audible sounds of something whirring/hissing slightly, and the pressure drops significantly on the low side port. Must be some sort of "actuation device", if not a clutch....
#20
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1922 Ford Model T / no OBD
8 bars in nowhere close to cooling system.
Sounds like you put another can of r134 into atmosphere.
Sounds like you put another can of r134 into atmosphere.
#22
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1922 Ford Model T / no OBD
The high cut-off is about 32 bars, so at full output you should see high 20's bars, although system is flexible enough to perform with 18.
You keep secret what you doing to dump refrigerant into atmosphere instead into the system?
There are so many topics how to do it, so many videos on youtube.....
You keep secret what you doing to dump refrigerant into atmosphere instead into the system?
There are so many topics how to do it, so many videos on youtube.....
#23
A/C Driverside blowing hot air
fixed my problem by releasing the pressure in both valves and recharged it.