Big Problems with ML320 Pls Help!
#51
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Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Maryland USA
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2003 C230 Coupe
Beg to differ with you unless one of us misunderstood the posters problem. I read it to understand that all the brakes applied themselves. This is a rare problem and could be caused by the yaw sensor failing. The lights coming on could be caused by a number of things like a bad sensor or the brake switch failing. I do not believe he needs a ABS/hyd. unit. I do believe the problem was caused by a bad yaw sensor. He also hade a code for the yaw sensor and the brake switch. He elected not to change the sensor but only the switch.
Last edited by guanabara; 01-24-2014 at 04:20 PM.
#52
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Join Date: Jan 2008
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2000 SL 500, 2007 S550 4matic, 2016 G63, 1973 450SLC
Video of my ML on fire at the right front brake
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qgwb...ature=youtu.be
My right front brake just caught on fire after a 40 mile drive. I had new brakes (rotors and pads) put in by a Mercedes specialist less than 200 miles ago. I called them up and they think it is the yaw rate sensor. The car did not pull or make any sort of noise and no warning lights came on. I will update as I find more.
My right front brake just caught on fire after a 40 mile drive. I had new brakes (rotors and pads) put in by a Mercedes specialist less than 200 miles ago. I called them up and they think it is the yaw rate sensor. The car did not pull or make any sort of noise and no warning lights came on. I will update as I find more.
#54
I just got a 2000 ml320 called the company to get the code for radio they said theres a recall on the brakes any mercedes dealer will fix
my gauges stopped working after the ignition got stuck took out the tumbler filled down and the pins. does anyone know how to get the gauges to work.
my gauges stopped working after the ignition got stuck took out the tumbler filled down and the pins. does anyone know how to get the gauges to work.
#56
ml 320 2002 braking on its on
Have an ml320, 2002, bought new, 213,000 miles. Car has braked on its own several times, Bas/Esp light comes on when this happens. Took it to a local shop, they ran the codes and replaced the brake light switch, however this did not fix the problem. Spoke to the mechanic, asked if hitting the ESP dash button at every start up would turn off this system, and prevent this from happening, he said yes. Unfortunately , even with the ESP turned off, and the triangle warning light on, while slowing down and braking a couple of times, the brakes assisted by applying hard and pulling hard, and then the Bas/Esp light came on, and the triangle warning disappeared. Have also noted that several times when driving, and not applying brakes, the triangle warning went off, and the Bas/Esp light came on .The car has never braked on its on when the Bas/Esp light was on, only when the triangle warning light was on, or when no light at all was on. Have read all the comments in this thread, and similar comments on other sites, and it seems that even MB dealers cannot always solve this problem . The yaw rate sensor seems to be the likely culprit, but I am hoping to be sure before I have this replaced. Does anyone know why hitting the ESP button, and supposedly turning the system off, why this could still happen, and also is there a way to permanently disable this system, so that the car can't ever self brake again?
#57
MBWorld Fanatic!
Yes it is probably the Yaw Rate Sensor, but to make sure you will need a scanner that can read ABS code, namely C1120 Yaw Rate Sensor or C1142 Lateral Acceleration Sensor.
#59
MBWorld Fanatic!
#60
codes were c1120( 5120) status: current
c1120 ESP Yaw Rate Sensor ( b45) ; signal cable open circuit/ short circuit, is the print out that I received.
Price to replace part $ 980, w/o a guarantee that it will fix the problem, so am mulling over my options.
Questions: 1) With the ESP button pushed off, why will it still self brake?
2) With the ESP button pushed off, after about 10 minutes of driving, the warning triangle stops, and The ESP/BAS simultaneously lights up. It has not self braked with the BAS/ESP light illuminated, does anyone understand the reasons for the self braking with the ESP button pushed, but not when the ESP/BAS light is on?
c1120 ESP Yaw Rate Sensor ( b45) ; signal cable open circuit/ short circuit, is the print out that I received.
Price to replace part $ 980, w/o a guarantee that it will fix the problem, so am mulling over my options.
Questions: 1) With the ESP button pushed off, why will it still self brake?
2) With the ESP button pushed off, after about 10 minutes of driving, the warning triangle stops, and The ESP/BAS simultaneously lights up. It has not self braked with the BAS/ESP light illuminated, does anyone understand the reasons for the self braking with the ESP button pushed, but not when the ESP/BAS light is on?
#62
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Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Brisbane, Australia
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2002 ML320, 2003 A160
Your other option is to salvage a working used module from one of the growing collection of retired MLs in junkyards.
If you need a guarantee, you can have a dealer fit a new sensor. If that doesn't fix it, they can put your old one back in and you don't have to pay for the new one they tried.
The car doesn't brake by itself if ESP is switched off, but I suppose the Brake Assist System is still operable.
If you need a guarantee, you can have a dealer fit a new sensor. If that doesn't fix it, they can put your old one back in and you don't have to pay for the new one they tried.
The car doesn't brake by itself if ESP is switched off, but I suppose the Brake Assist System is still operable.
#63
Could not find a used sensor in my area, had a new one installed, driven 50 miles w/o problem , hoping that this solves it.
Re Having ESP switched off, when I hit the brakes , sometimes it would "assist" rapidly, so the brake assist was still "working" in these cases, but it did not brake on its on with ESP switched off.
Re Having ESP switched off, when I hit the brakes , sometimes it would "assist" rapidly, so the brake assist was still "working" in these cases, but it did not brake on its on with ESP switched off.
#64
Similar
I have a 2002 ml320 that when I am stopped and turn left the break grinds ( sounds like ABS) but it only does it at 2 to 7 mph. It only happens on the left front wheel and only turning left. I get ABS lights every once in a blue moon when it drags hard. If I press the ESP Off button it makes no difference whats so ever. Do you guys think this is the same issue or a different issue all together.
Thanks in advance.
Thanks in advance.
#65
MBWorld Fanatic!
I have a 2002 ml320 that when I am stopped and turn left the break grinds ( sounds like ABS) but it only does it at 2 to 7 mph. It only happens on the left front wheel and only turning left. I get ABS lights every once in a blue moon when it drags hard. If I press the ESP Off button it makes no difference whats so ever. Do you guys think this is the same issue or a different issue all together.
Thanks in advance.
Thanks in advance.
That's not an ABS issue. Have you taken the L/F wheel off to investigate?
#68
Ok I will check this tonight after work. But it feels like the brake is beefing applied on it. Sometimes the car has problems getting going turning left like the break is applied.
Thanks again
Thanks again
#69
Sorry just now getting back after tearing more into it. There is no rubbing anywhere on anything. So yesterday I swapped out the caliper and the brake line with same results. The other night going through a drive through and all 3 and lights came on and stayed on till next morning then just went away. I am at a loss on trying to figure this out. Just not making any sense to me.
Thanks again.
Thanks again.
#71
Hello,
We have a 2001 ML320 w/ 170k miles. Last night I had the same thing happen that original poster described with the exception of the brakes being applied (or at least it didn't feel like they were applied)
pulled out of driveway and started accelerating, hit approx 35 MPH and the yellow triangle with ! started flashing and could not accelerate any faster. Felt like the gas pedal hit a flat spot or there was a governor on the engine. While limping it to
our mechanic and stopped in traffic the triangle went out and the ABS/EPS lights came on. Once traffic started moving the vehicle excelled up to road speed and you could drive 50/55 mph no issues (maybe faster but that was the posted speed limit)
Mechanic put it on the scanner and it showed no engine/transmission codes but had a brake code and he suggested we try and replace the brake light switch which I've seen has been mentioned and tried in this thread (but doesn't sound like the culprit )
Was too late last night to get the part and we were going to shoot for Monday. He reset the code and the lights went out, on the way home it started again with the triangle flashing and the car not going over 35 mph. I decided to try to put it in neutral and rev the engine and that seemed normal, the engine would Rev up to 4/5000 RPMs, However when it was in gear it would not go above 1-1500 RPMs and only 35 mph (unless held to the mat, added additional info about RPM's in next post). While in neutral the car coasted fine so it didn't feel like the brakes were on at all. Not sure if this is the same issue as the original poster but it sure sounds like the same issue minus the braking
Does anyone suspect it could also be the capital YAW sensor, or is this some type of separate issue?
Thanks in advance
We have a 2001 ML320 w/ 170k miles. Last night I had the same thing happen that original poster described with the exception of the brakes being applied (or at least it didn't feel like they were applied)
pulled out of driveway and started accelerating, hit approx 35 MPH and the yellow triangle with ! started flashing and could not accelerate any faster. Felt like the gas pedal hit a flat spot or there was a governor on the engine. While limping it to
our mechanic and stopped in traffic the triangle went out and the ABS/EPS lights came on. Once traffic started moving the vehicle excelled up to road speed and you could drive 50/55 mph no issues (maybe faster but that was the posted speed limit)
Mechanic put it on the scanner and it showed no engine/transmission codes but had a brake code and he suggested we try and replace the brake light switch which I've seen has been mentioned and tried in this thread (but doesn't sound like the culprit )
Was too late last night to get the part and we were going to shoot for Monday. He reset the code and the lights went out, on the way home it started again with the triangle flashing and the car not going over 35 mph. I decided to try to put it in neutral and rev the engine and that seemed normal, the engine would Rev up to 4/5000 RPMs, However when it was in gear it would not go above 1-1500 RPMs and only 35 mph (unless held to the mat, added additional info about RPM's in next post). While in neutral the car coasted fine so it didn't feel like the brakes were on at all. Not sure if this is the same issue as the original poster but it sure sounds like the same issue minus the braking
Does anyone suspect it could also be the capital YAW sensor, or is this some type of separate issue?
Thanks in advance
Last edited by ACLineman; 01-21-2017 at 11:53 AM.
#73
Um, That I didn't ask him. But I can find out
Also another thing I forgot to mention in my first post,
I tried pushing the accelerator all the way hard to the floor, the RPM's would go to 3-3,500 but the speed would NOT increase. If I let off and coasted, the vehicle would get under 35 MPH the triangle would go out and you could then accelerate back up to 35 but no higher and again the flashing triangle,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,
Thank You
Also another thing I forgot to mention in my first post,
I tried pushing the accelerator all the way hard to the floor, the RPM's would go to 3-3,500 but the speed would NOT increase. If I let off and coasted, the vehicle would get under 35 MPH the triangle would go out and you could then accelerate back up to 35 but no higher and again the flashing triangle,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,
Thank You
Last edited by ACLineman; 01-21-2017 at 11:50 AM.
#74
YAW and Lateral sensor
If you are having BAS/ESP problems and think it might be one of these sensors, consider if you have had a recent spill in the shifter area. The sensors are underneath on my '04 ML350. I spilled a little coffee in this area and the BAS/ESP lit up for a couple of days. Before spending hundreds on a sensor, it might be worth popping the shifter and cleaning and drying the sensors and all wiring harnesses/connections.
Last edited by Aar Sto; 01-21-2017 at 01:08 PM.
#75
If you are having BAS/ESP problems and think it might be one of these sensors, consider if you have had a recent spill in the shifter area. The sensors are underneath on my '04 ML350. I spilled a little coffee in this area and the BAS/ESP lit up for a couple of days. Before spending hundreds on a sensor, it might be worth popping the shifter and cleaning and drying the sensors and all wiring harnesses/connections.