NewShockerGuy

Picking up a 2005 CLK320 from our very good friend who has kept his car very maintained. The interior looks brand new, as if it was never used..lol Exterior needs detailed but nothing major.

I test drove his car yesterday for about an hour and as I started it up I noticed a whining noise that was weird. It would get a little louder during acceleration but then disappear at around 40+ mph. When slowing down to about 20mph to a stop the whine would come back.

I found a youtube video of a C-class that is making the EXACT same problem:

My question is how hard is it to install a alternator in the clk320?

I've done repairs on cars and have a lift in my garage, so tools are not an issue. Being this is our first German car I know things can be different from American/Japanese cars (which we own and I maintain,upgrade)

Just wanted to get an opinion since the part is only about $250, but other than that the car is flawless... truly a kept piece! I just want the whine to go away.

Thanks,
-Nigel

gbpirate

I have the same issue with my C230 Sport 2006 model. I have been trying to narrow that noise down, but have been unsuccessful. I need to find the parts also, if indeed it is the altenator. I fear the mechanics in West Central Florida, they are like plumbers "two weeks, two weeks".
Is anyone familiar with timing belt/chain replacement cost on this model?

Swervage

Alternators will fail, but it's rare on these cars. A more likely can common failure is the belt tensioner pulley and/or idler pulley. Follow Check Codes' advice - remove the belt and spin the pulleys by hand. Also, while you have the belt off, start the engine and listen. It's OK to let the engine run a minute or two without the belt, but not for too long as you'll have no water pump or alternator. If the noise is still there, then it's not a belt-drive problem (not the alternator, or other pulleys). If it's quiet, then continue looking for a belt-driven pulley as the source of the noise.

gbpirate

Thank you Swervage

NewShockerGuy

UPDATE:

Took the belt off! Started the car for 15 seconds and ZERO whining noise, ZERO noise other than normal engine:

I took two video... Spinning the pulleys hopefully someone can chime in and tell me what I think is not right...

First video spinning all pulleys:

Second video of me spinning just the Alternator... (Should it make that squeaking sound?)



Here's the video of what it sounds like when we start the car... the noise increasing goes when I give it some gas..


So my gut is telling me that if I am spinning the alternator freely and it's making the noise, it's only going to amplified that much more or worse by having the engine cranking and going at a much faster rate than me spinning it?

So far so good! I'm happy that we are narrowing the problem down :-)

Thanks,
-Nigel

gbpirate

Thanks everyone, now I will know what to examine.

NewShockerGuy

Figured I'd update.


Worked on it for a couple hours. DAMN what a PITA it is to pull out the AC... it's not hard at all, but it's just tight down there that you really have to be able to pull it, shift, move it, then pull it out the front passenger side front of engine bay because of the hoses on the driver's side... Not a biggie...


As I turned the pulled on the AC compressor it is DEFININTELY making a grinding noise... quite loud just by hand. I do the same thing on the NEW compressor and it's almost silent. I feel FAIRLY confident that when I put this one in tomorrow it should solve the problem... I'll make a new video and post it but so far so good...
Here are a couple pictures in my garage working on it.




Thanks so far for all the help so far!
-Nigel

gbpirate

That appeared to be time consuming and a lot of work. However, the problem was rectified. I do not have the tools, or resources, so my vehicle is off to the dreaded money grabbing mechanics.

NewShockerGuy

It gets better! More excellent news!! As I was unscrewing the dryer housing I said to my self why is this so freaking hard to turn? It's aluminum, no way it should be this freaking hard!!! So as I finally unscrewed the cap and took it off I looked at it and just said "that's so nice". The previous shop or whoever when they changed the dryer before cross threaded the cap, and then just continued to screw the cap down instead of fixing the problem then and there with a whole new part. So the next person would have to deal with their mess up, which is me. yay!

Luckily I found the OEM ac condenser on amazon for $102 PRIME, which is awesome considering other sites have it listed for $135-170 not including shipping. I should get the part Wednesday and then we leave for Europe for two weeks, so I'm really hoping I can get this done on Wednesday so I can put a closure on it!

Will update once I get the new part in. So far so good I guess, nothing like stripping the car down...smh.

You are right, it is quite a process it seems, more time is spent taking things off or trying to get access to a bolt only because you can't get to it because object A or B is blocking it...etc. Let us know how it turns out for you at the dealer, I'm curious to know what they are going to charge.

-Nigel

NewShockerGuy

LAST update before I fly out in 5 hrs...


Got the condenser today from amazon. I was disappointed that the opening for the dryer is not that special tool that I paid $20 for , and I am bummed that it's not the OEM size of the dryer... It's funny cause autohauz and the other sites including rock auto state this as OEM... which I'm sure it probably is in a way, but I am a little pissed because I had the OEM $40 dryer plus the tool = $60 wasted since I can't use them on the new condenser...oh well.. Hopefully that helps someone in the future.


Anyways, I installed the condenser, put the new ac compressor in, with the proper oil. I did roughly 140ml or pag46 oil. Changed out EVERY oring that was exposed to me mucking around in the AC, and then connected everything and pulled a vacuum. It held the vacuum for over an hour without budging so I said it's good. Bolted EVERYTHING back up minus the body work. Turned the car on and wow... no more annoying *** WHINING noise!!!!!!!!!!!! SUCCESS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! SO HAPPY!!!



Videos:
BEFORE:

AFTER:


HOPEFULLY you can tell a difference... ;-p




I only put in one can of r134a and got the temp down to 63 degrees F from 87 degrees F at the start. I will add another one once we get back but didn't feel like doing anymore tonight, I am filthy. Overall I must say this was a positive experience, though it seemed like I really wasn't going to do it, I was glad I kept going, it's definitely not as bad as I thought.. Every time I would hear German cars getting repaired I just saw $$$$$ compared to our current cars... needless to say I'm quite pleased.
So just some advice. Tools of the trade you need a mechanics stethoscope. HAD I had this item first I would have narrowed down the AC compressor most likely in the beginning rather than finding YouTube videos and then taking a stab at it. It's ok, it's a learning process and if I can pass knowledge onto someone else that's great. Everyone was awesome in the numerous questions I have been asking...lol




Things replaced in order:
1: Tensioner (OEM)
2. Idler Pulley (OEM)
3. OEM Belt
4. Alternator (OEM Refurb)
5. Condenser (Dryer threads no bueno!!)
5. Ac compressor (OEM)




I probably shouldn't have to replace any of this for the rest of us owning the car...


Now I just gotta put LEDs for all interior lights, license plate lights, and put the smoke corners on and detail the car and I'll be happy, and actually drive it!


I'll check back next week once we fly back into the states!


Cheers!!
-Nigel

gbpirate

I will know what is wrong with mine today, but I believe it is the tensioner. Will update, but appreciate the videos of work done. Too bad my skills are in I.T. not cars anymore. Back in the day my skills were mechanical toward motorcycles and cars. I plan on retraining myself.