At 51k, need new rear brake pads
#1
Super Member
Thread Starter
At 51k, need new rear brake pads
Hello.
I have 51k on my 2013 Ml350 bluetec and I already need new brake pads and rotors in the rear. Is this too early or about right?
I do 90% highway driving. My older 2010 and 2006 Ml350 never need brake pads till 75k or more. Is it because the 2013 Ml350 is heavier with the bluetec engine and has weaker or smaller brake pads then the older W164 MLs?
I have been quoted $617 for the rear brake pads, sensors, and rotors with labor at a good independent mechanic.
My local dealer quoted me $784 dollars.
The sensor light has not gone off yet so I will just wait a bit more however the stopping power of the car isn't that great anymore so I don't want to risk it.
I have 51k on my 2013 Ml350 bluetec and I already need new brake pads and rotors in the rear. Is this too early or about right?
I do 90% highway driving. My older 2010 and 2006 Ml350 never need brake pads till 75k or more. Is it because the 2013 Ml350 is heavier with the bluetec engine and has weaker or smaller brake pads then the older W164 MLs?
I have been quoted $617 for the rear brake pads, sensors, and rotors with labor at a good independent mechanic.
My local dealer quoted me $784 dollars.
The sensor light has not gone off yet so I will just wait a bit more however the stopping power of the car isn't that great anymore so I don't want to risk it.
#3
Member
Hello.
I have 51k on my 2013 Ml350 bluetec and I already need new brake pads and rotors in the rear. Is this too early or about right?
I do 90% highway driving. My older 2010 and 2006 Ml350 never need brake pads till 75k or more. Is it because the 2013 Ml350 is heavier with the bluetec engine and has weaker or smaller brake pads then the older W164 MLs?
I have been quoted $617 for the rear brake pads, sensors, and rotors with labor at a good independent mechanic.
My local dealer quoted me $784 dollars.
The sensor light has not gone off yet so I will just wait a bit more however the stopping power of the car isn't that great anymore so I don't want to risk it.
I have 51k on my 2013 Ml350 bluetec and I already need new brake pads and rotors in the rear. Is this too early or about right?
I do 90% highway driving. My older 2010 and 2006 Ml350 never need brake pads till 75k or more. Is it because the 2013 Ml350 is heavier with the bluetec engine and has weaker or smaller brake pads then the older W164 MLs?
I have been quoted $617 for the rear brake pads, sensors, and rotors with labor at a good independent mechanic.
My local dealer quoted me $784 dollars.
The sensor light has not gone off yet so I will just wait a bit more however the stopping power of the car isn't that great anymore so I don't want to risk it.
Do you really need new rotors? I find I usually do fine changing the rotors every other pad change. The dealers will usually try to talk you into always doing the rotors, but I think that's overkill. They'll usually record the rotor thickness on your inspection report.
#4
Super Member
Thread Starter
Your braking performance won't be affected until the pads are all the way worn through. You'd have to really ignore things to go that far, since the sensors are pretty conservative.
Do you really need new rotors? I find I usually do fine changing the rotors every other pad change. The dealers will usually try to talk you into always doing the rotors, but I think that's overkill. They'll usually record the rotor thickness on your inspection report.
Do you really need new rotors? I find I usually do fine changing the rotors every other pad change. The dealers will usually try to talk you into always doing the rotors, but I think that's overkill. They'll usually record the rotor thickness on your inspection report.
#6
Super Member
Thread Starter
I will just do both the rotors and brakes to avoid any hassle down the road.
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#9
Super Member
Thread Starter
Sounds good. I will have my independent mechanic do this since this car is a leased I am doing 25k miles a year and its a business expense write-off. I agree its an overkill to do both brakes and rotors now. Just do the brakes and turn the rotors and go from there. Thanks!
#10
Member
Had front and rear brakes replaced on 2012 MLBT @ 69K km. Drive about 65%/35% highway/city. There was small life left in pads but was easier to have replaced while in for service. Price - $850 per axle for pad/rotars & labour
#11
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2013 CTS-V, 2017 Audi Q7 / Past MB's: 2011 ML350 & 2012 ML350
I agree, I also think the OP did very well..
When I had the 2011 I had to replace both the front and rears around 15K which I was told was normal.
On the 2012 ML I replaced the rears at 17K and was also told this was normal.
When I had the 2011 I had to replace both the front and rears around 15K which I was told was normal.
On the 2012 ML I replaced the rears at 17K and was also told this was normal.
#12
Super Member
My brakes better last to at least 50,000 miles (like all the other cars and trucks I've owned) or I will be very upset. I never keep a car past 50,000 miles and do not recall the last time I did anything to the brakes.
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2013 CTS-V, 2017 Audi Q7 / Past MB's: 2011 ML350 & 2012 ML350
That may be normal where you live in NYC. I can just imagine the beating brakes get in that kind of stop and go traffic. I live in rural Texas where roads are straight and long and fairly flat and the only time I apply my brakes is when I get to my destination. Well, not quite but nothing like city driving.
My brakes better last to at least 50,000 miles (like all the other cars and trucks I've owned) or I will be very upset. I never keep a car past 50,000 miles and do not recall the last time I did anything to the brakes.
My brakes better last to at least 50,000 miles (like all the other cars and trucks I've owned) or I will be very upset. I never keep a car past 50,000 miles and do not recall the last time I did anything to the brakes.
I would understand if the ML was used daily in the NYC stop and go traffic, that would have made sense.
Of course there was some city driving but the ML was my wife's vehicle and she didn't have a daily commute. Most days maybe she would put 10 miles on it.. All other times it was highway mileage, weekends, vacations etc..
#14
Super Member
Then I do not understand why they went out so soon. Surely Mercedes has good breaks and quality pads and rotors. Mine are excellent, but then again, I only have 21,000 miles on them. Only the most inferior parts would wear out before 50,000 miles under the kind of driving I do, and it would appear, the kind of driving your wife does. Something is terribly wrong.
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2013 CTS-V, 2017 Audi Q7 / Past MB's: 2011 ML350 & 2012 ML350
Then I do not understand why they went out so soon. Surely Mercedes has good breaks and quality pads and rotors. Mine are excellent, but then again, I only have 21,000 miles on them. Only the most inferior parts would wear out before 50,000 miles under the kind of driving I do, and it would appear, the kind of driving your wife does. Something is terribly wrong.
Actually he told me "these are heavy vehicles that eat pads". His exact words.
#16
Junior Member
Seems odd to me that rear brake pads and/or rotors are wearing out faster than the front set. With the forward weight transfer that occurs during braking, I would think the front set would take the bulk of the braking abuse.
#17
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2013 CTS-V, 2017 Audi Q7 / Past MB's: 2011 ML350 & 2012 ML350
By comparison, in the same type of driving, since 1998 I have leased cars/SUVs from Infiniti, Lexus, Acura and MB..
In 36 or 39 month leases with anywhere from 35K to 42K miles I have never replaced the rear pads on any vehicles before they were turned in off lease. Except for both ML's, and with much less mileage on the pads.
Only the 2008 MDX needed pads (Fronts) @ 35K miles.
#18
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12' S350 blutec, 13'ML550, 2011 ml350, 2015 Jeep Grand Cherokee Summit
Anybody have a place to buy complete front and rear set or rotors and pads and the fixings for a reasonable cost. I just got outed over 1900 from my mb dealer in upstate ny. I've seen complete sets for 450$ off ebay but I don't trust them, any recommendations.
#19
Super Member
Porterfield for about $300 front and back and very easy DIY project... I just posted it on the GL63 forum
#20
On my 2011, the rears had to be replaced at about 50k, it's normal IMO. My rears wore out before the fronts as well, I think that's just how the system is weighted - more pressure goes to the rears, which are also slightly smaller.
If you're up to doing the change yourself, it's very simple. Parts and tools (if you don't already have them) will cost you about the same as a single axle job, with the added benefit that you'll have the tools next time, and for the next vehicle, so you're only investing parts and time.
I prefer to do most of my work on my cars myself since I'll know for sure what was done and how it was done.
Think of it like this - you'll pay about the same for an oil change whether you do it yourself or have it done, but if you do it yourself, you know it was done right. For other jobs where labour is a factor, you can end up saving a lot of money and have more peace of mind.
For brakes (if you can just have the rotors cut) you'll be paying around $100-$150 for the pads, and any good machine shop can cut the rotors for about $20 or so. Personally, I don't even bother cutting the rotors if they are within spec, but I'm easy on my brakes so they bed in just fine. I just replace them when they need it.
If you're up to doing the change yourself, it's very simple. Parts and tools (if you don't already have them) will cost you about the same as a single axle job, with the added benefit that you'll have the tools next time, and for the next vehicle, so you're only investing parts and time.
I prefer to do most of my work on my cars myself since I'll know for sure what was done and how it was done.
Think of it like this - you'll pay about the same for an oil change whether you do it yourself or have it done, but if you do it yourself, you know it was done right. For other jobs where labour is a factor, you can end up saving a lot of money and have more peace of mind.
For brakes (if you can just have the rotors cut) you'll be paying around $100-$150 for the pads, and any good machine shop can cut the rotors for about $20 or so. Personally, I don't even bother cutting the rotors if they are within spec, but I'm easy on my brakes so they bed in just fine. I just replace them when they need it.
#21
Super Member
My rears needs replacing at about 40k miles IIRC. Like my BMW's, I was told that Mercedes recommends a fresh set of rotors w/ a fresh set of pads. I'm the diy type, spent approx $400 for the complete set of rear pads, rotors, and the sensor from my local MB dealer. Easy diy job and search online for how to put the electronic pkg brake in service mode. My rotors measured to have plenty of life left so I only did the pads and was careful as to bedding them in properly.
#22
MBWorld Fanatic!
My rears needs replacing at about 40k miles IIRC. Like my BMW's, I was told that Mercedes recommends a fresh set of rotors w/ a fresh set of pads. I'm the diy type, spent approx $400 for the complete set of rear pads, rotors, and the sensor from my local MB dealer. Easy diy job and search online for how to put the electronic pkg brake in service mode. My rotors measured to have plenty of life left so I only did the pads and was careful as to bedding them in properly.
Last time when I change pads by myself was 25 years ago, hope I can do it this time. Dealer estimate $1200 P&L. Too much money in my opinion.
Thank you in advance.
#23
MBWorld Fanatic!
Our 2014 ML 350 Bluetec needs new rear pads. Can you provide some guidelines, DIY videos links, and how to put the electronic pkg brake in service mode. Please.
Last time when I change pads by myself was 25 years ago, hope I can do it this time. Dealer estimate $1200 P&L. Too much money in my opinion.
Thank you in advance.
Last time when I change pads by myself was 25 years ago, hope I can do it this time. Dealer estimate $1200 P&L. Too much money in my opinion.
Thank you in advance.
#24
Junior Member
Our 2014 ML 350 Bluetec needs new rear pads. Can you provide some guidelines, DIY videos links, and how to put the electronic pkg brake in service mode. Please.
Last time when I change pads by myself was 25 years ago, hope I can do it this time. Dealer estimate $1200 P&L. Too much money in my opinion.
Thank you in advance.
Last time when I change pads by myself was 25 years ago, hope I can do it this time. Dealer estimate $1200 P&L. Too much money in my opinion.
Thank you in advance.
https://mbworld.org/forums/new-m-cla...ml#post6315933