kcscout

I have a 97 S320 with worn out ball joints. Is replacing them a doable DIY job or should I just take it to a mechanic. Local estimate I got was $1200 for the front left and right upper and lower. Is that decent or what.

oldsinner111

I'd say that was about right.Hard job,and special tools needed.However get another bid.Also check with BBB any business.

kcscout

OK, since no one provided a post to give me much help on changing out my front lower ball joints I decided to give it a try. Found out this is a fairly simple job. The spring is between the lower control arm and an upper support point and so is not affected by the lower ball joint. After I jacked up the car and got it supported by a jack stand under the lower control arm I placed the jack under the wheel hub just in case but that was not really necessary. The lower ball joints are secured with a nut on each post. After removing the nuts the joint can be driven from the support with a few hammer blows. I used a baby sledge hammer but even that proved to be overkill. Installing the new joint was a simple matter of lining up the wheel hub with the mating support point and bolting the two arms of the ball joint in place. A word of caution. the lower ball joint post has an anti-rotation pin that must line up with a small mating hole. I destroyed the first joint installed by not carefully guiding that pin into the mating hole. Found out that cheap ball joints are not made to exacting specs and the pin did not line up very well. Second time around I took care to prebend the pin to make it line up and tightened up the connection. If I ever have to do this job again I will purchase top quality ball joints to ensure a good fit.

jharrisiii

Thanks for posting your experience and sharing your thoughts on what you would do different.

J

ad4nr

Is there a special tool needed for lower ball joint of 300SD? My frame shop refused to replace this after it became loose again in a year. I agreed to pay, but they simply would not work on the lower ball joint again.

kcscout

I see you have a 1982 300SD. You are on the wrong forum. Your car is a W126 chassis. This forum is for the W140 chassis. These are completely different vehicles. I used to own a 1983 300SD (and loved it for over 350K miles). I honestly never had to change the lower ball joints, but I think that on the W126 you need to compress the spring to be able to change the lower ball joint. The average shop will cringe at that because it takes a very special spring compressor. My guess is they tried with a normal american car spring compressor and it got bent all to hell. You just need to find a shop that can handle your car. The one you are working with is obviously over their head.

ad4nr

Thanks for the answer, even if I was on the wrong forum.

I am a newbie. I have only driven Mercedes diesels since 1975.

Actually that is all I have driven until three years ago I bought

a BMW diesel. I still drive the W126 300sd. An idependent

shop told me this afternoon that he has the correct spring-

compressor. It was "Name of Town" Spring Service that would

not work on my lower ball joint the second time. Thanks for

taking the time. I will arrange with the independent.

jwthom1966

I am getting ready to replace the front lower ball joints on my 1996 S500. They boots are visually done for and I get the standard creeks when turning the steering wheel left or right. But I am getting a vibration in the steering wheel ( vibrates up and down ) and pulls firm to the left. The tire wear is is the rear ( extreme cord wear on the inside rear tire.
My question is, would ball joints cause any of these symptoms?

K-Mac

Important to realize ex-factory there is only front and rear "Toe" adjustment for virtually all Mercedes models.


No Camber and Caster adjustment capability to reduce costly, premature inner edge tire wear and increase traction. Also to resolve steering pull and improve steering response along with quicker turn in and reduced dive/lift on brake and acceleration.


K-MAC saw the need and manufacture front and rear kits essential to allow you to return vehicle to factory specs (and have ongoing adjustment) after curb knock damage, altering height, load carrying or fitting wide profile tires.


The patented K-MAC design required no special tools to install. Both front and rear only require a single wrench to precisely adjust/change settings.


Promotional offer for April MB World members in USA and Canada.
FedEx Air freight $25 one kit or $35 Front and Rear kits (normally $70 and $85).