4-matic Transfer Case Fluid Change DIY
06-17-2012, 01:43 PM
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96 and 08 911 turbos
4-matic Transfer Case Fluid Change DIY
sorry guys, no pics, but here are the steps:
1. Lift car...duh. I used ramps up front, stands in the back, making sure the rear wheels can spin. Also make sure the car is level.
2. Remove heat shield. There are five 8mm bolts/nuts around the perimeter that need to come off. Only the small heat shield in the front needs to come off.
3. Put the car in neutral. use the T60 torx socket on the 3 bolts that connect the flex disk to the output shaft flange of the TC. you'll need to hold the backside nut with an 18mm open ended wrench.
4. Once the three prop shaft bolts have been removed, you need to push the prop shaft back off the TC output shaft flange. I needed to pry a bit to get the flexdisk to come loose.
5. Now, use a 6mm allen socket to loosen the fill plug. You may need to spin the TC output shaft flange a bit to get the best angle at it. I would not use an allen key here. Loosen the fill plug, but don't remove it. Just leave it a turn loose.
6. Now use a jack to support the transmission. I used a hockey puck right infront of the tranny crossmember.
7. Remove the 6 16mm bolts that hold the tranny cross member on.
8. Remove the 3 13mm bolts holding the tranny mount to the cross member
9. Remove the 4 t-50 torx bolts holding the tranny mount to the transmission. I did not have to remove the rubber from the mount, but keep in mind one t-50 bolt will have interference with the center mount bolt, so remove the other 3 first and let the mount drop, then remove the 4th.
10. Now use your 6mm allen socket to loosen the inspection and fill holes. Let fluid drain completely. Use a new copper washer and reinstall the drain plug. Torque to 30nm or 22lb ft.
11. Use a fluid pump to put .6L of fluid into the fill hole. Keep in mind that there is an obstruction about 1/4" inch into the fill hole, so you can't insert your filling tube in too far.
12. The TC is full once the fluid runs out the inspection hole, you can reinstall the inspection and fill plug (with new washers). Same 22lb ft.
13. Install is pretty much the reverse of removal. I don't have the torque specs in front of me, but they are around if you search.
Pretty straightforward, but a lot of parts removal for a routine task.
1. Lift car...duh. I used ramps up front, stands in the back, making sure the rear wheels can spin. Also make sure the car is level.
2. Remove heat shield. There are five 8mm bolts/nuts around the perimeter that need to come off. Only the small heat shield in the front needs to come off.
3. Put the car in neutral. use the T60 torx socket on the 3 bolts that connect the flex disk to the output shaft flange of the TC. you'll need to hold the backside nut with an 18mm open ended wrench.
4. Once the three prop shaft bolts have been removed, you need to push the prop shaft back off the TC output shaft flange. I needed to pry a bit to get the flexdisk to come loose.
5. Now, use a 6mm allen socket to loosen the fill plug. You may need to spin the TC output shaft flange a bit to get the best angle at it. I would not use an allen key here. Loosen the fill plug, but don't remove it. Just leave it a turn loose.
6. Now use a jack to support the transmission. I used a hockey puck right infront of the tranny crossmember.
7. Remove the 6 16mm bolts that hold the tranny cross member on.
8. Remove the 3 13mm bolts holding the tranny mount to the cross member
9. Remove the 4 t-50 torx bolts holding the tranny mount to the transmission. I did not have to remove the rubber from the mount, but keep in mind one t-50 bolt will have interference with the center mount bolt, so remove the other 3 first and let the mount drop, then remove the 4th.
10. Now use your 6mm allen socket to loosen the inspection and fill holes. Let fluid drain completely. Use a new copper washer and reinstall the drain plug. Torque to 30nm or 22lb ft.
11. Use a fluid pump to put .6L of fluid into the fill hole. Keep in mind that there is an obstruction about 1/4" inch into the fill hole, so you can't insert your filling tube in too far.
12. The TC is full once the fluid runs out the inspection hole, you can reinstall the inspection and fill plug (with new washers). Same 22lb ft.
13. Install is pretty much the reverse of removal. I don't have the torque specs in front of me, but they are around if you search.
Pretty straightforward, but a lot of parts removal for a routine task.
Last edited by Quadcammer; 06-17-2012 at 01:48 PM.
06-19-2012, 08:29 AM
#3
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96 and 08 911 turbos
I believe its once every 40k miles. I have 44k miles.
Car drives the same, which is to say well. I did notice a slightly loose flex disk bolt, and tightening that seems to have helped a slight highway vibration I have.
Car drives the same, which is to say well. I did notice a slightly loose flex disk bolt, and tightening that seems to have helped a slight highway vibration I have.
06-20-2012, 07:50 PM
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