Valve Block Rebuild Issue?
#1
Super Member
Thread Starter
Valve Block Rebuild Issue?
I just got done rebuilding the valve block, and it didn't really go all that smooth, but it got done. It was on the bump stops on the driver's side, but not the passenger's, interestingly enough. When I started it up and hit the lift button, it jacked up all the way(with an accompanying noise I can only assume had to do with the air introduced from the rebuild,) but the red ABC error light came on and now it's at full lift height. I restarted it a couple times, but it's still there. Is that normal after that kind of work and how do I clear it?
#3
Super Member
Thread Starter
The reservoir was down about 2cm on the dipstick without the car running. Interestingly, since it's been left in lift mode, the rear is holding it's height very steady, so that's nice. I tried to lower the suspension, but it won't go down, even after a couple restarts. I have not, however, driven it. Just idled a couple minutes in the garage.
#4
Super Member
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Drove it, and it seems to have cleared itself. Goes up and down as normal, no warning lights, rides fine. No sign of leaks. So good news. Mostly. Still seems like the driver's rear corner is down a bit compared to the rest, although not by as much as before.
#5
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2004 S600 Biturbo
How did the rebuild not go smoothly? Did something get messed up? Sometimes the o-rings can get damaged upon reassembly. It's a very tight fit. make sure to lube the o-rings with plenty of ABC fluid before sliding them back into the block.
edit: I posted while you were posting. I'm glad it works! It takes some cycling of the button to get all of the air out.
Before a rebuild, it is not unusual for one side to sag and the other not. This happens in most cases. It is very rare for both to fail at the same time. There are separate isolation valves for each strut.
edit: I posted while you were posting. I'm glad it works! It takes some cycling of the button to get all of the air out.
Before a rebuild, it is not unusual for one side to sag and the other not. This happens in most cases. It is very rare for both to fail at the same time. There are separate isolation valves for each strut.
Last edited by _Ryan; 09-20-2016 at 08:29 PM.
#6
MBWorld Fanatic!
On the Airmatic system, each strut can be individually adjusted for ride height (within limits) using the STAR system.
I would assume that the ABC can also be adjusted if necessary.
I would assume that the ABC can also be adjusted if necessary.
#7
Super Member
Thread Starter
Still so far so good, and I appreciate the input. The o-rings coming off looked okay, but the driver's side rear really dropped when I had it parked with the front end on ramps for 10 days due to water pump failure, so I still think it was good to do, even if it didn't solve my height differential. My buddy that was supposed to help with flushing the fluid bailed on me, so I'm going to have to wait a few more days on that.
I had heard about the adjustments, Wally, but I'd also heard of the block being a possible culprit. Given lack of access to STAR, I thought I'd try the thing I could do. At least I learned something, even if I hurt myself in several ways trying to get that thing on and off. It's a fairly hefty hunk of metal to handle at odd angles in tight spaces. Thank the lord for band aids and naproxin.
I had heard about the adjustments, Wally, but I'd also heard of the block being a possible culprit. Given lack of access to STAR, I thought I'd try the thing I could do. At least I learned something, even if I hurt myself in several ways trying to get that thing on and off. It's a fairly hefty hunk of metal to handle at odd angles in tight spaces. Thank the lord for band aids and naproxin.