S-Class (W220) 1999-2006: S 320 CDI, S 320, S430, S 500, S 600

Transmission oil cooler lines

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Old 11-21-2016, 10:08 AM
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Mine 2005 S430 4Matic * Wife's 2005 S430 4Matic *
Transmission oil cooler lines

So, I've been doing this engine swap in my 2005 s430 4matic . The doner engine came from my 2001 E430 Sport that my wife wrecked in an accident (minor rear end damage but enough to total it) back in September .

I've swapped the upper oil pan and wiring harness ....and checked the part numbers on pretty much everything else. I've run into some silly mistakes that I've made. ...let's just say I can take the engine out of this vehicle fairly easy now seeing how I've done it a few times over the past two weeks.

Well, I feel silly again but I can't fathom the metal transmission oil cooler lines that run from the transmission to the radiator require an engine removal in order to replace them.

Finally, my question . ...

How the heck do you install the lines when the engine is still there in place on my 2005 S430 4matic ?

I don't see how they can be manipulated to get into their correct position with the differential and engine mount brackets in the way.

please help with suggestions

thank you!

Last edited by The Shoeman; 11-21-2016 at 10:53 AM. Reason: Typo
Old 11-21-2016, 03:25 PM
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1999 E300TD
Post the S430 VIN.
Old 11-21-2016, 03:32 PM
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Mine 2005 S430 4Matic * Wife's 2005 S430 4Matic *
Originally Posted by Plutoe
Post the S430 VIN.
WDBNG83J95A447365
Old 11-21-2016, 07:18 PM
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Originally Posted by The Shoeman

You are correct, there is no quick fix, I would need an hour to describe what has to be done and that aint going to happen--I strongly suggest that you search for two factory docs AR2710P0500IW and AR2020P3865AB that will assist in your quest.


A quicker way may be to remove the radiator and bumper and goat the job from the front---that assumes that the cooling pipes are the same!!
Old 11-21-2016, 08:41 PM
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Googling those doc numbers don't provide any hits. Thanks and I'll check deeper later.

If it will take about an hour just to explain it....I'm going with my Plan B.

Cut the ends off the metal tubing and get 3/8" transmission hose and run flexible rubber hose from point "A" to point "B"

I don't really see any other way without removing the engine.....AGAIN!!!! (and that aint going to happen)

Thank you for your help. Should be just a few more hours until this car is running again (translates to a couple of days)
Old 07-05-2018, 05:07 PM
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Having same issue

Hey Shoeman, what exactly did you do to fix your problem because I can't seem to get this cooler line back in, I've taken apart so much, the fan, alternator, coolant and windshield reservoir. I need exact stores where you bought the parts to fix it please I've been working on this for two days now and it's driving me nuts lol
Old 07-05-2018, 10:13 PM
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Originally Posted by Mustangridah314
Hey Shoeman, what exactly did you do to fix your problem because I can't seem to get this cooler line back in, I've taken apart so much, the fan, alternator, coolant and windshield reservoir. I need exact stores where you bought the parts to fix it please I've been working on this for two days now and it's driving me nuts lol
I did exactly what I said in my previous post.

Originally Posted by The Shoeman
Cut the ends off the metal tubing and get 3/8" transmission hose and run flexible rubber hose from point "A" to point "B"
I left the banjo bolts on the side of the transmission, but cut the lines off with about 5 inches of length left from the transmission. I put a slight flare on the end of the cut tube so the rubber hose would have something to bite on with the hose clamp. I then ran the rubber hose up to the front where I did the same on that end.

I essentially turned the metal lines into rubber lines and found a safe path to run the new rubber lines.

The rubber lines I think were just fuel lines (to make sure the transmission fluid wouldn't have an adverse affect on it).

Good luck.



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