Using washers to drop the car.
12-01-2006, 05:26 PM
#27
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2000 S430, 1999 E 320, 2 K5 blazers,
Thanks so much for reposting this. I am also in so cal and waiting for my car to come back from house of imports due to some suspemtions damage. Flock i wanted to ask you since you have had your car lowered for sometime have you had any problems releated to lowering? And would you be willing to lower mine i would be more then happy to compensate you?
01-03-2007, 02:27 PM
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2000 S500
Call me silly, but on which side do you put the washers (maybe I should just jack up my car and actually see what we're talking about here)?
Aleksandar
Aleksandar
02-14-2007, 02:00 PM
#31
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Hi Y'all.
2 years + now. My car doesn't have any issue with the shocks. I should have about 20K miles on it lowered. Just to update the folks who was concern for the struts.
2 years + now. My car doesn't have any issue with the shocks. I should have about 20K miles on it lowered. Just to update the folks who was concern for the struts.
02-16-2007, 02:51 AM
#32
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Another testament to washers!
My e500 airmatic has been lowered for two years+ via the washer method (5 of them up there). Haven't had any problems yet.
I'm going to try fkong's method next to get a little lower.
What's the best way to pop that ball joint out?
I'm going to try fkong's method next to get a little lower.
What's the best way to pop that ball joint out?
You won't break it.
03-02-2007, 03:25 PM
#34
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i just did this mod to my s430.
the rear can can go so much lower than the fronts. I'm gonna need to extend the bolt in the front.
on your modified bolts are you stacking the washers on top of that extra nut? the extra nut isnt really needed is it?
the rear can can go so much lower than the fronts. I'm gonna need to extend the bolt in the front.
on your modified bolts are you stacking the washers on top of that extra nut? the extra nut isnt really needed is it?
03-02-2007, 04:48 PM
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BMW E39
Not directing this at you David, but this method is much easier to understand if you adopt some common sense. Essentially, you are just trying to change the angle of the sensor arm so that the car reads it and adjusts the height of the airmatic accordingly. Do whatever to safely and securely change the angle of the arm and it will work.
03-21-2007, 01:20 AM
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Lamborghini Countach, BMW M3, ML 500 x2, S500 Lorinser
So I wanted to check all this out today... I found the fronts no problem... But No matter where I looked I couldnt find that rear adjuster bar.... Could somebody draw me a map?
03-21-2007, 05:03 AM
#37
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You should have the car up on jackstands or a lift to go under there.
03-22-2007, 12:51 PM
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Lamborghini Countach, BMW M3, ML 500 x2, S500 Lorinser
I got way up there this morning and still couldn't find it.
03-22-2007, 12:57 PM
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03-22-2007, 02:29 PM
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Lamborghini Countach, BMW M3, ML 500 x2, S500 Lorinser
03-22-2007, 05:00 PM
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BMW E39
That looks about right. It's above the differential, slightly to the driver's side. A flashlight may come in handy.
Don't do what I did. At first attempt, I slid the slider way too much and decided not to tighten it (so I didn't have to set the car down, evaluate the height, and raise it again and untighten it again and adjust. Basically, I half-assed the job). I broke the sensor arm and ended buying a new sensor to install. Slide the sliders just a quarter inch and tighten it before setting the car down.
I know I was stupid. Live and learn.
Don't do what I did. At first attempt, I slid the slider way too much and decided not to tighten it (so I didn't have to set the car down, evaluate the height, and raise it again and untighten it again and adjust. Basically, I half-assed the job). I broke the sensor arm and ended buying a new sensor to install. Slide the sliders just a quarter inch and tighten it before setting the car down.
I know I was stupid. Live and learn.
03-22-2007, 06:47 PM
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Lamborghini Countach, BMW M3, ML 500 x2, S500 Lorinser
Found it- Thanks... Still not easy to get two wrenches to....
Pretty sure I got it even on the first shot.... Measurments at the front and rear of the skirts are coming out equal....
thoughts?
Pretty sure I got it even on the first shot.... Measurments at the front and rear of the skirts are coming out equal....
thoughts?
Last edited by RomansDad; 03-22-2007 at 06:59 PM.
04-04-2007, 05:56 PM
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2006 S55 & 97 T88h Supra
whoa, ur car is slammed bro! puts some 20s on there and you are done! congrats on the lowering...good way of saving a thousand bucks or more with not going with a elm. why not lower it via star tho? Ive heard some horror stories about the washer method, but once again, those are just stories.
04-04-2007, 08:55 PM
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Lamborghini Countach, BMW M3, ML 500 x2, S500 Lorinser
whoa, ur car is slammed bro! puts some 20s on there and you are done! congrats on the lowering...good way of saving a thousand bucks or more with not going with a elm. why not lower it via star tho? Ive heard some horror stories about the washer method, but once again, those are just stories.
Last edited by RomansDad; 04-04-2007 at 08:58 PM.
04-04-2007, 10:08 PM
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04 S430 (sold),05 X5 4.4i, 02 325i, 87 560SL, 85 Alfa Romeo
Fact is, No one has any facts about this method. Just talk about blowing shocks, and yadda yadda... but no facts.. so it's just crap. But here is a fact:
ANYTIME you run ANY airshock with less than the minimum required about of air, there is a risk of damaging ( blowing ) the shock due to the lack of proper support.
That said,,
The ONLY caution that comes from the MB FACTORY about airshocks is that you should never move or attempt to drive the vehicle if the strut is DEPLETED otherwise strut damage MIGHT occur. ( DUH )
So whether you use washers, $250 replacement brackets, STAR, Electrical lowering, whatever you choose, if you think about it, the physical relationship between the car and the strut is exactly the same.Neither method can change that.
The Star Diag method just modifies the Pot values in the program so that the car "thinks" the new value is the correct height, or 0. and that becomes the new reference value.
Washers and Brackets do not change the program defaults. instead they change the signal references that come from the three potentiometers. basically tricking the program into thinking the car is "too high" so it lowers itself till the program values are correct again.
With the devices that lower electrically, all they are doing is modifying those same values except via preset signals burned into a chip or two and the car is still tricked into thinking the values are correct so it automatically adjusts accordingly.
either way, it's the same thing... anyone who understands simple logic and electromechanical inputs would know this.
But to each his own... I think I can buy a few struts for what one of those "Electrical lowering" devices cost...
BTW. a slammed car is a slammed car not matter how it's done. and I don't think any slammed car sitting on air shocks is healthy for the shock. But whats the harm in moderate lowering regardless of the method? I think None
Last edited by my06clk; 04-04-2007 at 10:13 PM.
04-05-2007, 02:25 AM
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BMW E39
Most if not all of them aren't actual stories at all I'll bet. Just haters and naysayers on here who just love to dispute anything that is not done their way.
Fact is, No one has any facts about this method. Just talk about blowing shocks, and yadda yadda... but no facts.. so it's just crap. But here is a fact:
ANYTIME you run ANY airshock with less than the minimum required about of air, there is a risk of damaging ( blowing ) the shock due to the lack of proper support.
That said,,
The ONLY caution that comes from the MB FACTORY about airshocks is that you should never move or attempt to drive the vehicle if the strut is DEPLETED otherwise strut damage MIGHT occur. ( DUH )
So whether you use washers, $250 replacement brackets, STAR, Electrical lowering, whatever you choose, if you think about it, the physical relationship between the car and the strut is exactly the same.Neither method can change that.
The Star Diag method just modifies the Pot values in the program so that the car "thinks" the new value is the correct height, or 0. and that becomes the new reference value.
Washers and Brackets do not change the program defaults. instead they change the signal references that come from the three potentiometers. basically tricking the program into thinking the car is "too high" so it lowers itself till the program values are correct again.
With the devices that lower electrically, all they are doing is modifying those same values except via preset signals burned into a chip or two and the car is still tricked into thinking the values are correct so it automatically adjusts accordingly.
either way, it's the same thing... anyone who understands simple logic and electromechanical inputs would know this.
But to each his own... I think I can buy a few struts for what one of those "Electrical lowering" devices cost...
BTW. a slammed car is a slammed car not matter how it's done. and I don't think any slammed car sitting on air shocks is healthy for the shock. But whats the harm in moderate lowering regardless of the method? I think None
Fact is, No one has any facts about this method. Just talk about blowing shocks, and yadda yadda... but no facts.. so it's just crap. But here is a fact:
ANYTIME you run ANY airshock with less than the minimum required about of air, there is a risk of damaging ( blowing ) the shock due to the lack of proper support.
That said,,
The ONLY caution that comes from the MB FACTORY about airshocks is that you should never move or attempt to drive the vehicle if the strut is DEPLETED otherwise strut damage MIGHT occur. ( DUH )
So whether you use washers, $250 replacement brackets, STAR, Electrical lowering, whatever you choose, if you think about it, the physical relationship between the car and the strut is exactly the same.Neither method can change that.
The Star Diag method just modifies the Pot values in the program so that the car "thinks" the new value is the correct height, or 0. and that becomes the new reference value.
Washers and Brackets do not change the program defaults. instead they change the signal references that come from the three potentiometers. basically tricking the program into thinking the car is "too high" so it lowers itself till the program values are correct again.
With the devices that lower electrically, all they are doing is modifying those same values except via preset signals burned into a chip or two and the car is still tricked into thinking the values are correct so it automatically adjusts accordingly.
either way, it's the same thing... anyone who understands simple logic and electromechanical inputs would know this.
But to each his own... I think I can buy a few struts for what one of those "Electrical lowering" devices cost...
BTW. a slammed car is a slammed car not matter how it's done. and I don't think any slammed car sitting on air shocks is healthy for the shock. But whats the harm in moderate lowering regardless of the method? I think None
04-05-2007, 02:28 AM
#47
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AMG E55, Stage 1, Strait Pipe from Primary Cats
Most if not all of them aren't actual stories at all I'll bet. Just haters and naysayers on here who just love to dispute anything that is not done their way.
Fact is, No one has any facts about this method. Just talk about blowing shocks, and yadda yadda... but no facts.. so it's just crap. But here is a fact:
ANYTIME you run ANY airshock with less than the minimum required about of air, there is a risk of damaging ( blowing ) the shock due to the lack of proper support.
That said,,
The ONLY caution that comes from the MB FACTORY about airshocks is that you should never move or attempt to drive the vehicle if the strut is DEPLETED otherwise strut damage MIGHT occur. ( DUH )
So whether you use washers, $250 replacement brackets, STAR, Electrical lowering, whatever you choose, if you think about it, the physical relationship between the car and the strut is exactly the same.Neither method can change that.
The Star Diag method just modifies the Pot values in the program so that the car "thinks" the new value is the correct height, or 0. and that becomes the new reference value.
Washers and Brackets do not change the program defaults. instead they change the signal references that come from the three potentiometers. basically tricking the program into thinking the car is "too high" so it lowers itself till the program values are correct again.
With the devices that lower electrically, all they are doing is modifying those same values except via preset signals burned into a chip or two and the car is still tricked into thinking the values are correct so it automatically adjusts accordingly.
either way, it's the same thing... anyone who understands simple logic and electromechanical inputs would know this.
But to each his own... I think I can buy a few struts for what one of those "Electrical lowering" devices cost...
BTW. a slammed car is a slammed car not matter how it's done. and I don't think any slammed car sitting on air shocks is healthy for the shock. But whats the harm in moderate lowering regardless of the method? I think None
Fact is, No one has any facts about this method. Just talk about blowing shocks, and yadda yadda... but no facts.. so it's just crap. But here is a fact:
ANYTIME you run ANY airshock with less than the minimum required about of air, there is a risk of damaging ( blowing ) the shock due to the lack of proper support.
That said,,
The ONLY caution that comes from the MB FACTORY about airshocks is that you should never move or attempt to drive the vehicle if the strut is DEPLETED otherwise strut damage MIGHT occur. ( DUH )
So whether you use washers, $250 replacement brackets, STAR, Electrical lowering, whatever you choose, if you think about it, the physical relationship between the car and the strut is exactly the same.Neither method can change that.
The Star Diag method just modifies the Pot values in the program so that the car "thinks" the new value is the correct height, or 0. and that becomes the new reference value.
Washers and Brackets do not change the program defaults. instead they change the signal references that come from the three potentiometers. basically tricking the program into thinking the car is "too high" so it lowers itself till the program values are correct again.
With the devices that lower electrically, all they are doing is modifying those same values except via preset signals burned into a chip or two and the car is still tricked into thinking the values are correct so it automatically adjusts accordingly.
either way, it's the same thing... anyone who understands simple logic and electromechanical inputs would know this.
But to each his own... I think I can buy a few struts for what one of those "Electrical lowering" devices cost...
BTW. a slammed car is a slammed car not matter how it's done. and I don't think any slammed car sitting on air shocks is healthy for the shock. But whats the harm in moderate lowering regardless of the method? I think None
04-05-2007, 02:57 AM
#48
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my06clk - Right On !
I always knew that in my head but didnt really put it into text. Plus I was tired of proving myself so I just let people be. They are just foolish to pay more to get the same result.
Big Thumbs up to you.
I always knew that in my head but didnt really put it into text. Plus I was tired of proving myself so I just let people be. They are just foolish to pay more to get the same result.
Big Thumbs up to you.
04-06-2007, 05:34 AM
#49
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2007 Väth SL65 AMG. 2007 BMW Alpina B5s. 2007 BMW M6.
fkong777;
I'm having ABC instead of airmatic on my S600TT, and I would REALLY like it to drop an inch at the front.
And if I can do that without paying $ 2000,- for some little electronic box as it cost here, I'm happy!
But my question to you, and anyone else for that matter, is it just as easy on the ABC (as it sounds to be) on the airmatic..?
I can live with the rear, but to make it drop 1" at the front is my next mission...
I'm having ABC instead of airmatic on my S600TT, and I would REALLY like it to drop an inch at the front.
And if I can do that without paying $ 2000,- for some little electronic box as it cost here, I'm happy!
But my question to you, and anyone else for that matter, is it just as easy on the ABC (as it sounds to be) on the airmatic..?
I can live with the rear, but to make it drop 1" at the front is my next mission...
04-06-2007, 03:13 PM
#50
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ABC is Adaptive Body Control. it is just a programming for the Airmatic. You still have airmatic struts so the sensor and linkage should still be there. I think the ABC will tune the damper setting automatically where as regular airmatic you have to push the button to change the firmness of the suspension.
