2005 CLK SRS MALFUNCTION FIX DIY
#1
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Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: Manchester NH
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2005 Mercedes-benz CLK 500
2005 CLK SRS MALFUNCTION FIX DIY
(This is my first post so excuse me if things aren't as well typed or organized but I wanted to help ppl out!)
So when I bought my CLK 500 it already had an SRS service light on the dash
I started to look into the issue online to find some solutions but nothing was a definite answer. One user had suggested that if the battery dies then the SRS light will come on and that it just needs to be cleared by an expensive OBD reader. So I did just that. I went to a friend of mine that owns a repair shop and he generously let me use his $9k reader. Thankfully I got a print out of the code that it was throwing before I cleared it. Though nothing really cleared. This is the printout.
This is when I was so thankful that things like OBD existed. It literally couldn't be easier to identify. It specified passenger seatbelt so I went directly to the cable and followed it under the seat where many other cables intersect to go to the ECU.
This was the end of the cable under my passenger seat.
So I pulled the front seat open to allow access to the back seats and looked at where the cable from. So I found one adapter that was still stuck in with ripped cables.
Its the left connector
I'm pointing to it with my finger here. This was after I removed it from its bracket. Unfortunately I only started to take pics after I was almost done!
So I first turned the key to the off position and first removed the connector by unclipping a long black bar that ran at the bottom of that whole plastic piece housing the adapters. There was a little clip you have to remove off the yellow adapter before you could pull it out. Unscrewing the plastic housing to manipulate the angle of access is really helpful. I suggest you do that. Heres the screw.
It's a torx but I just used these hexagonal tools and they worked fine
This pic is from after I fixed it. But you can see what I"m talking about with regard to the little clips
Here is the yellow adapter i found with ripped wires.
I took the metal pins that hold onto the copper wires out of the plastic adapter and re-connected them to the proper cables from the seat belt wire. BE SURE YOU HAVE THE RIGHT PINS GOING TO THE RIGHT SIDES OF THE ADAPTER YELLOW WAS ON THE LEFT WITH THE ADAPTER SITTING UP RIGHT.
Finally I put the adapter back into the bracket and re-screwed the plastic housing to the metal brackets and connected the adapters I had removed. And voila!
I put it back in with the same orientation.
Put the key into the ignition and man was this a good moment to be alive.
Let me know if you have any questions.
So when I bought my CLK 500 it already had an SRS service light on the dash
I started to look into the issue online to find some solutions but nothing was a definite answer. One user had suggested that if the battery dies then the SRS light will come on and that it just needs to be cleared by an expensive OBD reader. So I did just that. I went to a friend of mine that owns a repair shop and he generously let me use his $9k reader. Thankfully I got a print out of the code that it was throwing before I cleared it. Though nothing really cleared. This is the printout.
This is when I was so thankful that things like OBD existed. It literally couldn't be easier to identify. It specified passenger seatbelt so I went directly to the cable and followed it under the seat where many other cables intersect to go to the ECU.
This was the end of the cable under my passenger seat.
So I pulled the front seat open to allow access to the back seats and looked at where the cable from. So I found one adapter that was still stuck in with ripped cables.
Its the left connector
I'm pointing to it with my finger here. This was after I removed it from its bracket. Unfortunately I only started to take pics after I was almost done!
So I first turned the key to the off position and first removed the connector by unclipping a long black bar that ran at the bottom of that whole plastic piece housing the adapters. There was a little clip you have to remove off the yellow adapter before you could pull it out. Unscrewing the plastic housing to manipulate the angle of access is really helpful. I suggest you do that. Heres the screw.
It's a torx but I just used these hexagonal tools and they worked fine
This pic is from after I fixed it. But you can see what I"m talking about with regard to the little clips
Here is the yellow adapter i found with ripped wires.
I took the metal pins that hold onto the copper wires out of the plastic adapter and re-connected them to the proper cables from the seat belt wire. BE SURE YOU HAVE THE RIGHT PINS GOING TO THE RIGHT SIDES OF THE ADAPTER YELLOW WAS ON THE LEFT WITH THE ADAPTER SITTING UP RIGHT.
Finally I put the adapter back into the bracket and re-screwed the plastic housing to the metal brackets and connected the adapters I had removed. And voila!
I put it back in with the same orientation.
Put the key into the ignition and man was this a good moment to be alive.
Let me know if you have any questions.
The following 4 users liked this post by medoworld:
#2
Junior Member
Thanks for posting; Nice write up! The key is knowing where to look. You must owe your friend with that Diagnostic Scanner a couple of good six packs.
#4
MBworld Guru
Having a scan tool that can read the various MBZ system is worth it if you are going to DIY. You can get a "Chinese clone" of SDS (Star Diagnosis) for around $500, or iCarsoft i980 for around $100. SDS comes with WIS and EPC, plus it can do coding that iCarsoft can't.
#5
I need help with this problem. At first my car would show the srs intermittently, but after I unplugged this wire and re plugged it, its stuck indefinitely. Not sure where to go from here. It didn't look damaged to me, but its hard as hell to fit under the seat to get a view.
#6
MBWorld Fanatic!
Is this really a write up that shows how to make an electrical connection with pressure and painters tape? I personally would go to a place like harbor freight and get the soldering equipment you need and some heat shrink. It would probably cost under $20.
#7
for me the wires didn't pull out and were not obviously damaged, but the light stayed on. I eventually stripped the wires, extended them, and connected them together. only 2 wires caused all this mess, but it was a cheap fix.
Light is gone and the seat belt presenter works
Light is gone and the seat belt presenter works