TTMerc

Have a 2014 cls63S. Installed k&ns and deleted cats and resonator, changed plugs. Car seemed not to run as strong so scanned it. Only codes are efficiency for the cats. Any ideas what it could be? I've also deleted codes and installed o2 spacers so light hasn't come back on.

also is on stock tune.

gaspam

you are getting efficiency code because you dont have cats now ...When the oxygen sensors have a reading that is similar to each other, it is an indication that the catalytic converter is not working as efficiently as it is intended... obviously yours are going to read same pre and post cat now since there is no cat to change the reading

TTMerc

Yes I understand the code I've cleared the codes and the car still only makes max of 11lbs which I've checked multiple ways. Thinking possibly the pressure sensor got gummed up from the K&n oil? Not sure where that is located. I pulled the iat sensor and it was covered in oil. Ive since also cleaned the turbos and intake which did help idle and throttle response but still minimal boost and the power is down. How would I check the boost modulator thing on top of the motor? Any other things to check?

gaspam

do you have logs ?

shardul

iTrader: (1)

OK then next step would be is to put the car on the dyno to see what power it makes.

TTMerc

I do have some logs. What parameters would you like to see? I'm going to log again today. Yeah guess I could dyno the car but I've taken it to the track which is kind of a dyno. Trapped 95mph in the 1/8. I think it can do better bc my 550 trapped 91.

gaspam

fuel pressure, timing, LT/ST fuel trends, boost, iat, throttle position, rpm, mph

TTMerc

Did some more troubleshooting. Im thinking its an boost Actuator, vacuum, or the actuator on the turbo stuck on one of the turbos. I pulled off the driver side vacuum going to the nipple on the actuator located on the turbo and plugged the vacuum hose. Drove a bit and would hardly make any boost. Plugged driver side back like normal and did the same to the passenger side. Went for a drive and the car actually felt pretty decent and logs showed about 12 pounds. I looked at the rods going from the actuator to the turbo and they are in different positions pics are below. Moving the rods with pliers it seems like they are really sticky should they move easily?

Mike450

This platform have issues with cat protection mode on OEM tuned cars without cats?

TTMerc

Not sure kind of what I'm trying to figure out because even with the light off its still occurring. I'm missing about 6lbsof boost and it doesn't look like its pulling timing

gaspam

couple of things 1. where are you located as ambient is only 14.7 psi at sea level (with that i see you boosting up to 11.5psi). 2. you seem to be only in lower gears with max speed/ rpm combo of 53mph/ 5421 rpm and from i have seen max boost happens in higher gears (part of torque limits in lower gears)

I would trying to find a long on ramp to highway to log and as you are getting on do a good run up to around a 100 mph or so WOT the whole way.. there is one by my house that is pretty long getting onto the expressway that i use to log and i can reach 130mph before getting onto the highway, so basically its a closed course straight away... find something like that and log to 100+mph

does your logging app have calculated boost option? I used that on mine and works better than map- atm

also in general total fuel trims (stft+ltft) should be no more than +/-10%... on bank2 at wot you are hitting ~-11 on your log for more than one instance... so the ecu thinks the afr is too rich so its taking out fuel to return STFT control to the correct range. 3 things i can think of are Not enough air is reaching the cylinder, More than the requested amt of fuel is reaching the cylinder, or o2 sensor is reading incorrectly.

this leads me to wonder if you were retuned for removing your cats or what was the rationale on stock tune?

TTMerc

Thanks for the insight I will post some high speed runs. I am in Texas so not very high above see level. The car is still on stock tune. I wonder if maybe a small exhaust leak? I've checked all the vacuum lines etc for leaks and didn't find any. What about the actuator control arms being difficult to move would that effect anything if they weren't able to open or close all the way?

Georgee6086

hey just wondering if you logged your boost before you put the K&N filters in or did you start checking after when you got your cel

TTMerc

No I had the k&ns ready to go on when I bought the car. Drove without them about 2 days car pulled very strong. When I put the k&ns in the bags had oil in them but figured since the car doesn't have a MAF it would be ok. The oil got all the way to the lower and upper pressure sensors and iat sensor. It made for rougher idle and hesitation but not enough to throw a light. The light only came on after the cats so then I scanned the car. Hope that answers your question.

Georgee6086

What is a stock cls63s supposes to do in the 1/8?

TTMerc

In good weather I'm thinking 7.3x @97

shardul

iTrader: (1)

Where in Texas are you?

The actuator arms are spring loaded and are pretty hard to move around.

TTMerc

I'm in Dallas area Shardul! These arms seem to catch as they move like hitting something almost. Going to get a vacuum pump and see if they have full movement and also see if I can check the boost actuator solenoid. I pulled all plugs and checked them only found one that looked a bit wet. it was the back driverside. Would that be bank 2? Cylinder 8?

shardul

iTrader: (1)

Cylinder 8

You can use a small hand help brake bleeder pump to to check the movement.

Also connect the car to DAS and check if it has and soft codes stored in the ECU and clear them.

TTMerc

Used a hand held vacuum pump and both worked fine. attached some other logs. also cleared codes even perm codes.

TTMerc

Ive tested all components and all are working as they should so this makes me think its a problem mechanically. The length and position of the rods going from the vacuum actuator are much different. Is this the case on all m157? can anyone compare my pics above to theirs?

TTMerc

Anyone have any insight into this? even tried to bypass the boost actuator by having the vacuum going to the wastegate actuators constant. Still will not show more than 11 pounds.

shardul

iTrader: (1)

I have some M157 turbos on the bench will look at them today

TTMerc

That would be great I've checked all vacuum sources for leaks etc. the only thing I haven't or can't check is the other MAP sensor that's under the plenum almost on top of the TB. Anyone have any tricks to remove that one? I really want to seeing how my other MAP sensor on passenger side was very gunked up. I can also hear a slight hisss from back of motor was thinking it was just idle air. I've checked and replaced the Evap hose going to manifold on drivers side but there's another on passenger side that goes into the head I wonder what that one is

CarHopper

You try putting your stock filters back in?