2000UZJ

I have a few bolt on mods but would like some input on what I can do to make this engine blow-up proof-ish. I know I can't eliminate the possibility, but I am all about engine health.

I will not be opening up the engine to beef up internals. My goal is to help it feed better, breath better, and run cooler. I feel like my engine is running hot due to tune and IC Pump issues.

From what I have read.

- Looped Fuel Rail ( I plan on upgrading, on stock right now)
- Larger Injectors: Suggestions? (I am on stock)
- New IC Pump - CM30 is on it's way out I think (140* IAT @ 90*F Ambient)
- Split Cooling

Any suggestions help. I would love to keep this project DIY friendly (probably a moderate wrencher).

I haven't done research, other than talking with Tony @ BIP about this stuff. I hope this thread becomes popular and stays on track for all the W211 Noobies like myself.

blackbenzz

The title is a little misleading. You want to make the engine "bullet proof" but you don't want to open the engine. I would say cooling, headers, and above all a good tune.

2000UZJ

Probably should change it. I have been doing a little bit of research on our motors. Trying to figure out what is the weakest link. Seems like #8, but it also seems like a number of things.

I'm not opposed to opening the motor to beef up components, but not on this round of mods. Maybe in a few years. I just purchased it, wanting to go through and upgrade/"baseline" the mods so I am comfortable with my foot through the floor. That is the problem with buying used performance sedans...you know the PO had his foot in it too. Just not sure how hard and what's been worn. Once I gather a definitive list, this thread title will become about "bullet proofing" my engine. Just starting the searching game.

Rob CL

Keep the power low, and efficient. So... Stock?

2000UZJ

Here is what is installed on the motor when I purchased it. Nothing has changed expect I went back to OEM air filters.

Eurocharged Performace Mods:
Stage 1
ECU Tune
180MM Pulley (switching to ASP soon)
Heat Exchanger
Belt Wrap Kit

Other Modifications
ASP Pulleys
Johnson CM30 I/C Pump
K&N Air Filters (OEM Now)
Resonator Delete
X-Pipe with secondary cat delete

GregMB

How many miles on the car?

Unless you saw a receipt for it when you bought the car, assume that the fuel filter/sender units have never been changed.

THEN CHANGE THEM!

It's supposed to happen every 60,000 miles. At first it doesn't seem related to your question, but it's a huge restriction in fuel delivery once they get loaded up with debris... and US fuels seem to have lots of crud in them.

If you can't keep a high-volume of fuel moving into the engine, you'll be running lean at WOT.... Expensive repairs won't be far behind.


These cars are awesome, but many are now on 5th or 6th owners... with all sorts of deferred (or missing) maintenance work. Be sure all the "basics" are correct before you start on a quest to add more power.


-G

SilverStrk

As stated above add a Good set of headers to this list along with checking your sending units and call it a day.. Will be pretty bullet proof.. Good luck..

jmb614

If you aren't going to beef up the internals I would start off datalogging, develop a baseline, and monitor for deviance.

MindBend

^^^^Word! What he said. Replace fuel filter octopus before anything else. Replacing plugs isn't a bad idea either. It's difficult to "bullet proof" anything until you have a known baseline to start with.

2000UZJ

It was purchased in July with 79,500 miles and currently as 84,250. No major engine issues other than a starting issue (starter motor is my guess, comes and goes), and a S/C chirp/squeak. My best guess on the chirp/squeak (constant when S/C engaged) is the bearing.

All good points. So far my list is as follows:

Fuel Delivery:
New Injectors: 550cc,650cc or 750cc? What would be the best for street/track use (circuit racing, not drag)
BIP Looped Fuel Rail
AEM 320LPH Fuel Pump
Fuel Filters
Spark Plugs (best suggestions?)

Would going with the E85 320LPH pump make it happier with the "10% Ethanol Fuel" we have in the states? There are no gas stations with 0% ethanol in Atlanta.

Breathing:
New intakes (open to suggestions)
Kleeman Headers (long tubes not really needed...)
Mufflers (already have cat delete, res delete, X-Pipe with 3" piping to OEM mufflers)

Cooling:
Split Cooling
Better I/C Pump

Tune:
Let Tony at BIP re-tune it...start from ground zero and get the EC Tune off.

Question for those who are knowledgeable in the wiring and electrical stuff. The E60 M5 runs the radiator fans for a few minutes after you shut the engine off, to cool the engine once the coolant has stopped. Does anybody make a system for the 55K engines that do that? I assume I could install a timed relay via Arduino board programmed to temp/time?

Again,
She is plenty fast for me. Picking up a little extra HP is expected with this list of mods, however I am thinking this the best way to open up this motor and make it happier in every way. I noticed the Stage 1 EC tune raised the rev limiter, I want that GONE immediately.

I appreciate all of the help. I am used to 4.7L 2UZ-FE N/A Engine from Toyota. I have never owned a FI vehicle, nor something as complicated as this (electrical). CANBUS, SAM, and large HP engines. I come from a background of off-road racing, rock crawling, and low speed vehicles. Ask me about gearing, air lockers, long travel suspension tuning, and transfer cases and I'll blow you away. I am used to a vehicle that you could smash into rocks, drive over curbs, put garbage into the fuel tank and floor it all day, then wade water over the hood. It was a care free vehicle that did not give a **** what you did to it.

Kelvin07

I agree, could you share the part numbers? (in case you have them)

GregMB

Interesting!

Sounds like you and I need to talk!..... My real passion is 4x4s and hardcore fabrication. I've been quietly building an off-roader in my garage for the last 6 years or so.



1972 Blazer with a 4-link rear (16" travel), 3-link front (14" travel)...7075-T6 aluminum links, Mercedes Unimog 404 portal outers on Ford 9" center sections. Big block power, Atlas 4-speed transfer case....and 38" tires. The ground clearance under the axles is insane!

Don't get me started....... I could talk about this kind of stuff for hours. Love it.


-G

2000UZJ

That's awesome!

Here was my addiction before the Benz. 100 Series Land Cruiser with one or two mods

Everything from gears to satellite communication. It was a beast and I miss it. I plan on building another with a TRD Supercharger and a SAS.

GregMB

Awesome!

I'm trying to finish my build and have it fully sorted for a Chevy full-size event in Moab, UT in 2018......

That will be the 50th Anniversary of the K5 Blazer for Chevrolet, and I'd love to be there representing with the very first body style (69-72) and taking no prisoners!!

I've been to Moab a few times, but never to Johnson Valley...... I'd love to hit the Hammers one of these days.


-G

2000UZJ

Moab is awesome. Check out Ouray and Telluride (3 hours away). Truly stunning...not to mention Black Bear Pass.


I have a chrip/squeak when driving. Only squeaks when the SC is engaged. I ordered 6302ZZ, 6303, and a new SC bearing. All overnighted to arrive tomorrow so I can get to work!

I tried to remove the belt wrap kit and could not break the allen bolt. I was trying to remove the single pulley to the right and felt like I was going to snap the bolt off. What is the torque specs on that thing??? The engine was hot. Best way to remove the belt wrap kit? I loosened the tensioner (wobbling due to worn bearing).

GregMB

There is a YouTube video that shows the belt wrap kit installation... That will give you some clues.

Failing that, send a PM to Shardul. He never sleeps and knows everything!!

2000UZJ

Shardul replied to my ever so poorly written and confusing PM.

I think the PO dabbed some loctite on the bolts. I couldn't imaging it being that hard to remove the bolt.

Bigtickets

Shardul is the man.

Where were you planning on tracking the car?

2000UZJ

Barber Motorsports Park, Road Atlanta, and Atlanta Motorsports Park.
I'd like the 55 to be able to run multiple laps (20-40) full steam with no hiccups. It's quite a bit to ask for of the cooling system since other members have trouble managing 1/4 mile temperatures.

It's my DD, weekend warrior, and soon to be recreational track use.

I feel that with some proper suspension tuning (coil overs, alignment) and slicks that it will be more composed in the corners.

She's fast enough for the track, however it's the cooling and fuel delivery I want to perfect. This should be interesting since it wasn't designed for track use. It's the totally wrong platfor to begin with...but damn I'm tired of seeing those little BMW'S. I want to be "that guy" on the track. The moron in a 4 door kicking ***.

Sir-Boost-a-Lot

iTrader: (1)

Youre in for a rude $$ awakening if you actually attempt to run that Mercedes wide open on a road coarse for 20-40 laps like you said.

Perhaps a ten gallon water/meth reservoir with anti-slosh foam inside might buy you some time?

Exotic-metal55

Let your engine cool before trying to break any of the accessory bolts loose and you may try some penetrating oil to help. If you plan to run on a long road coarse, then keep boost lower than short race cars, colder plugs, tune for the race (lower timing), big long tube headers and build a full race cooling set up. A CL55 won a long endurance race a few years back.

Bigtickets

What would be the ideal full race cooling set up? I track mine frequently and haven't had any significant (knock on wood) issues. Heat soak is a buzz kill though....