Got my E55 project going! OP and timing chain etc!
10-18-2014, 06:15 PM
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Got my E55 project going! OP and timing chain etc!
Hi guys! First of all wanna say a BIG THANK YOU for everyone whos active on this forum! So many great people helping eachother out and from day one saved me a ton of trouble with all this information available!
So I had the chance to fullfill one of my car dreams this past february when bought my E55! What a car! When I got her she had 162tkm on it, now at 173tkm. Back home first thing was to do a big service so I would know where im at with all the stuff, even she has full service record; Motoroil and filter, Tranny flush+conductor plate, electrical plug and KUBvalve, Diff oil, sparkplugs, Valve cover gaskets, Airfilters, fresh air filters, SC belt, pulley bearing and tensioner, aux belt and tensioner and brake fluid was done. Recently also Got the Bosch 010 to replace the old that wasnt working anymore.
So now that I've driven the car for the first summer and im really impressed with her, there are couple things that need to be done. 1) the oilpump chain tensioner is worn and the chain is making the diesel truck noise..needs to be taken care of. 2) Im adding power so as im fixing the OP chain matter im going through the engine to see everything is in order to handle the power. So the heads are going to be serviced and new timing chain and all the stuff related. Also new waterpump and main front and back seals.. you get the idea! I was planing not to take the end part apart, just making sure it all looks good as far as the cylinder walls go.
On top of all this the car is going to get everything new on the wear items side of the front and rear axles, yes airmatic too.
Me and my friend were thinking about to take the motor and tranny out as one. Has people done this before? Thats why we took the front apart to have good room to do this. Anso have you guys who have taken these engines out had them on motor "benches" while they were out? Is there good places behind the motor to bolt it to the motor bench? And what about lifting this up? From the top of the SC where there's the place for lifting or does the SC come off before lifting the engine out? Is there annother place on the back to lift?
As preamptive maintanace im going to be doing the fuelpumps also. Cant be having a clogged up filter there! Plugwires and coils are also on the list!
All the vacuum lines both rubber and plastic that are on the motor have allredy been purchased too so there are no old ones going back that are about to crack.
Everyones input on this is more than appreciated! If there are some things that should be done when "you're allredy there" please shime in and let me know!
Now for some pics about where we're at now
So I had the chance to fullfill one of my car dreams this past february when bought my E55! What a car! When I got her she had 162tkm on it, now at 173tkm. Back home first thing was to do a big service so I would know where im at with all the stuff, even she has full service record; Motoroil and filter, Tranny flush+conductor plate, electrical plug and KUBvalve, Diff oil, sparkplugs, Valve cover gaskets, Airfilters, fresh air filters, SC belt, pulley bearing and tensioner, aux belt and tensioner and brake fluid was done. Recently also Got the Bosch 010 to replace the old that wasnt working anymore.
So now that I've driven the car for the first summer and im really impressed with her, there are couple things that need to be done. 1) the oilpump chain tensioner is worn and the chain is making the diesel truck noise..needs to be taken care of. 2) Im adding power so as im fixing the OP chain matter im going through the engine to see everything is in order to handle the power. So the heads are going to be serviced and new timing chain and all the stuff related. Also new waterpump and main front and back seals.. you get the idea! I was planing not to take the end part apart, just making sure it all looks good as far as the cylinder walls go.
On top of all this the car is going to get everything new on the wear items side of the front and rear axles, yes airmatic too.
Me and my friend were thinking about to take the motor and tranny out as one. Has people done this before? Thats why we took the front apart to have good room to do this. Anso have you guys who have taken these engines out had them on motor "benches" while they were out? Is there good places behind the motor to bolt it to the motor bench? And what about lifting this up? From the top of the SC where there's the place for lifting or does the SC come off before lifting the engine out? Is there annother place on the back to lift?
As preamptive maintanace im going to be doing the fuelpumps also. Cant be having a clogged up filter there! Plugwires and coils are also on the list!
All the vacuum lines both rubber and plastic that are on the motor have allredy been purchased too so there are no old ones going back that are about to crack.
Everyones input on this is more than appreciated! If there are some things that should be done when "you're allredy there" please shime in and let me know!
Now for some pics about where we're at now
Last edited by Elhonaz; 10-19-2014 at 10:00 AM.
10-19-2014, 08:01 AM
#3
Senior Member
Thread Starter
10-20-2014, 03:44 AM
#5
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Does anyone have an idea of all the bolts that need to be replaced? Obviously headbolts and crankpulley but is there anything else i should change? Flywheel bolts? Rockthemullet, sir-boost-alot, Denroll? You guys probably have a pretty good idea? Thanks!
10-20-2014, 09:12 AM
#6
Super Member
Me and my friend were thinking about to take the motor and tranny out as one. Has people done this before? Thats why we took the front apart to have good room to do this.
You can take them out together, I usually pull motor only so it's up to you
Anso have you guys who have taken these engines out had them on motor "benches" while they were out? Is there good places behind the motor to bolt it to the motor bench?
Motor stand? I separate the motor from the trans and buy longer bolts to go through the motor stand into the circle where the bellhousing mounts.
And what about lifting this up? From the top of the SC where there's the place for lifting or does the SC come off before lifting the engine out? Is there annother place on the back to lift?
I typically pull the supercharger first, then run straps around the exhaust manifolds. If I keep the supercharger on, there are two eyelets at the rear of the engine that can be used to hoist.
Everyones input on this is more than appreciated! If there are some things that should be done when "you're allredy there" please shime in and let me know!
Inspect the timing chain guides... with the miles it might be better to replace them and they're cheap(ish).
You can take them out together, I usually pull motor only so it's up to you
Anso have you guys who have taken these engines out had them on motor "benches" while they were out? Is there good places behind the motor to bolt it to the motor bench?
Motor stand? I separate the motor from the trans and buy longer bolts to go through the motor stand into the circle where the bellhousing mounts.
And what about lifting this up? From the top of the SC where there's the place for lifting or does the SC come off before lifting the engine out? Is there annother place on the back to lift?
I typically pull the supercharger first, then run straps around the exhaust manifolds. If I keep the supercharger on, there are two eyelets at the rear of the engine that can be used to hoist.
Everyones input on this is more than appreciated! If there are some things that should be done when "you're allredy there" please shime in and let me know!
Inspect the timing chain guides... with the miles it might be better to replace them and they're cheap(ish).
Headbolts, but I would upgrade to ARPs since you're in there. To be honest, if you're pulling the oil pans you can upgrade to ARP rod bolts relatively easily too. I've reused the crank pulley bolt and the cam bridge bolts with success but if you're in there replacing everything you might as well because they're TTY (torque to yield)... I reused the cam bridge bolts like 4 times and they stretched 1.15mm (92.00 to 93.15). Flexplate bolts are also TTY, I would replace them. I would also replace the two oil passage seals going from the front cover to the block, the water pump gasket, the crank pulley sensor, and the coolant temp sensor while you're at it. If you're removing the oil pump from the engine, replace the pressure relief valve that sits just beneath it in the block. These are all cheap and easy access when you're that far in.
Have the health of the starter and alternator checked at your local parts store while they're sitting on the bench.
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10-20-2014, 10:02 AM
#8
Super Member
This list is just off the top of my head, I might add some.
Rear main seal (1) - A112 997 0346
Oil seal ring (2) - A112 997 0845
Front main seal (1) - A023 997 8447
Cam bridge bolts (36) - A112 990 1022
Cam bridge bolts (2) - A002 990 9722
Crank pulley bolt (1) - A000 990 0200
Flex plate bolts (8) - A004 990 3212 (if 25.5mm long) or A007 990 5104 (if 18.5mm long)
Camshaft gear bolts (2) - N910143 012002 (TTY, if you remove them)
Crank position sensor (1) - A003 153 2828
Water pump gasket (1) - A112 201 0080
Pressure relief valve (1) - A611 180 0115
Oil pump tensioner spring (1) - A112 993 0220
Optional
Valve seal (24) - A612 050 0058 (should come in sets of 4)
Chain guide rails (2) - A112 052 0116
Chain guide rail (1) - A112 052 0016
Chain guide rail (1) - A112 052 0216
Oil pump tensioner guide rail (1) - A112 181 0059
Rear main seal (1) - A112 997 0346
Oil seal ring (2) - A112 997 0845
Front main seal (1) - A023 997 8447
Cam bridge bolts (36) - A112 990 1022
Cam bridge bolts (2) - A002 990 9722
Crank pulley bolt (1) - A000 990 0200
Flex plate bolts (8) - A004 990 3212 (if 25.5mm long) or A007 990 5104 (if 18.5mm long)
Camshaft gear bolts (2) - N910143 012002 (TTY, if you remove them)
Crank position sensor (1) - A003 153 2828
Water pump gasket (1) - A112 201 0080
Pressure relief valve (1) - A611 180 0115
Oil pump tensioner spring (1) - A112 993 0220
Optional
Valve seal (24) - A612 050 0058 (should come in sets of 4)
Chain guide rails (2) - A112 052 0116
Chain guide rail (1) - A112 052 0016
Chain guide rail (1) - A112 052 0216
Oil pump tensioner guide rail (1) - A112 181 0059
10-20-2014, 11:58 AM
#9
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Thanks guys!!
Headbolts, but I would upgrade to ARPs since you're in there.
To be honest, if you're pulling the oil pans you can upgrade to ARP rod bolts relatively easily too. Im going to consider this, are these much more expensive than OEM? And is there a possibility that OEM's wont hold up with little under 500whp that im going after?
Have the health of the starter and alternator checked at your local parts store while they're sitting on the bench. Will definetly do!
Rear main seal (1) - A112 997 0346 Gonna get these!
Oil seal ring (2) - A112 997 0845 And these!
Front main seal (1) - A023 997 8447 This!
Cam bridge bolts (36) - A112 990 1022 These!
Cam bridge bolts (2) - A002 990 9722 Yup!
Crank pulley bolt (1) - A000 990 0200 Yes!
Flex plate bolts (8) - A004 990 3212 (if 25.5mm long) or A007 990 5104 (if 18.5mm long) Along with new flexplates!!
Camshaft gear bolts (2) - N910143 012002 (TTY, if you remove them) Will see!
Crank position sensor (1) - A003 153 2828 Yes!
Water pump gasket (1) - A112 201 0080 Yes! Maybe water pumps also, not sure yet!
Pressure relief valve (1) - A611 180 0115 Under consideration!
Oil pump tensioner spring (1) - A112 993 0220 Have it allredy!
Optional
Valve seal (24) - A612 050 0058 (should come in sets of 4) Gonna get these!
Chain guide rails (2) - A112 052 0116 For sure!
Chain guide rail (1) - A112 052 0016 Yes!
Chain guide rail (1) - A112 052 0216 Yes!
Oil pump tensioner guide rail (1) - A112 181 0059 Have it!
Man thanks so much for all of this! 
a huge help!
Yeah motor stand was the word I was after
Would something like this work? http://images.biltema.com/PAXToImage...rge/2000019445
That would hold close to 1000 pounds (450Kg)
Headbolts, but I would upgrade to ARPs since you're in there.
To be honest, if you're pulling the oil pans you can upgrade to ARP rod bolts relatively easily too. Im going to consider this, are these much more expensive than OEM? And is there a possibility that OEM's wont hold up with little under 500whp that im going after?
Have the health of the starter and alternator checked at your local parts store while they're sitting on the bench. Will definetly do!
Rear main seal (1) - A112 997 0346 Gonna get these!
Oil seal ring (2) - A112 997 0845 And these!
Front main seal (1) - A023 997 8447 This!
Cam bridge bolts (36) - A112 990 1022 These!
Cam bridge bolts (2) - A002 990 9722 Yup!
Crank pulley bolt (1) - A000 990 0200 Yes!
Flex plate bolts (8) - A004 990 3212 (if 25.5mm long) or A007 990 5104 (if 18.5mm long) Along with new flexplates!!
Camshaft gear bolts (2) - N910143 012002 (TTY, if you remove them) Will see!
Crank position sensor (1) - A003 153 2828 Yes!
Water pump gasket (1) - A112 201 0080 Yes! Maybe water pumps also, not sure yet!
Pressure relief valve (1) - A611 180 0115 Under consideration!
Oil pump tensioner spring (1) - A112 993 0220 Have it allredy!
Optional
Valve seal (24) - A612 050 0058 (should come in sets of 4) Gonna get these!
Chain guide rails (2) - A112 052 0116 For sure!
Chain guide rail (1) - A112 052 0016 Yes!
Chain guide rail (1) - A112 052 0216 Yes!
Oil pump tensioner guide rail (1) - A112 181 0059 Have it!
a huge help!Yeah motor stand was the word I was after
Would something like this work? http://images.biltema.com/PAXToImage...rge/2000019445 That would hold close to 1000 pounds (450Kg)
10-20-2014, 02:18 PM
#10
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Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Akron, OH
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1998 Mercedes E320 4Matic Wagon, 1981 Yamaha Maxim 650
Honestly you could even use a Harbor Freight engine stand if you wanted, but they're super cheap and I trust them only as far as I can throw them. Check out thetoolwarehouse.net for engine stands, I've gotten quite a few tools through them and their prices are pretty good (at least compared to the Snap On truck at work). Look for "Pig Mats", I always lay a few of them under the engine while it's on the stand to soak up anything that drips down while I'm working.
10-20-2014, 02:43 PM
#11
Super Member
Thanks guys!!
Man thanks so much for all of this! a huge help!
Yeah motor stand was the word I was after Would something like this work? http://images.biltema.com/PAXToImage...rge/2000019445
That would hold close to 1000 pounds (450Kg)
Man thanks so much for all of this!
a huge help!Yeah motor stand was the word I was after
Would something like this work? http://images.biltema.com/PAXToImage...rge/2000019445 That would hold close to 1000 pounds (450Kg)
Honestly you could even use a Harbor Freight engine stand if you wanted, but they're super cheap and I trust them only as far as I can throw them. Check out thetoolwarehouse.net for engine stands, I've gotten quite a few tools through them and their prices are pretty good (at least compared to the Snap On truck at work). Look for "Pig Mats", I always lay a few of them under the engine while it's on the stand to soak up anything that drips down while I'm working.
Edit: like this
Last edited by rockthemullet; 10-20-2014 at 03:27 PM.
10-20-2014, 02:47 PM
#12
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Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Akron, OH
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1998 Mercedes E320 4Matic Wagon, 1981 Yamaha Maxim 650
10-20-2014, 03:14 PM
#13
PLATINUM SPONSOR
You can pull the engine and trans out together but make sure car is up high enough to swing them out. You can pull the engine out by the blower (two holes in top of blower) by either making a plate to bolt on or bolting heavy chains to it. I made a plate and welded big triangle hook on to the plate.
Make sure you buy 1-2 tubes of MB sealer and gasket remover , as most the engine is sealed with sealer and takes time to clean and seal again.
Almost every load bearing bolt on the engine is pretty much a stretch to yield bolt, so count on changing them all out or change to ARP. Read the manual real well for putting the front timing chain cover back on and follow the sealant application instructions, as it is easy to not put enough sealant or to much in the wrong places
You will need a good inch lb torque wrench for both metric and standard to do the rocker bolts.
Make sure you buy 1-2 tubes of MB sealer and gasket remover , as most the engine is sealed with sealer and takes time to clean and seal again.
Almost every load bearing bolt on the engine is pretty much a stretch to yield bolt, so count on changing them all out or change to ARP. Read the manual real well for putting the front timing chain cover back on and follow the sealant application instructions, as it is easy to not put enough sealant or to much in the wrong places
You will need a good inch lb torque wrench for both metric and standard to do the rocker bolts.
__________________
E63 Biturbo, UPD Cold Air induction kit, UPD performance crank pulley and UPD adjustable rear suspension with ride height adjustment.
CL55 UPD Cold Air Boost kit, UPD 3000 stall converter, UPD 77mm SC clutched pulley and beltwrap kit, Custom long tubes, UPD crank pulley , UPD suspension kit, UPD SC pulley, Aux. HE, Trunk tank w/rule 2000 pump, Mezeire pump, UPD 5pc idler set, Aluminum rotor hats.
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E63 Biturbo, UPD Cold Air induction kit, UPD performance crank pulley and UPD adjustable rear suspension with ride height adjustment.
CL55 UPD Cold Air Boost kit, UPD 3000 stall converter, UPD 77mm SC clutched pulley and beltwrap kit, Custom long tubes, UPD crank pulley , UPD suspension kit, UPD SC pulley, Aux. HE, Trunk tank w/rule 2000 pump, Mezeire pump, UPD 5pc idler set, Aluminum rotor hats.
www.ultimatepd.com
instagram @ultimate_pd
facebook.com/ultimatepd
10-20-2014, 05:29 PM
#14
Senior Member
Thread Starter
You can pull the engine and trans out together but make sure car is up high enough to swing them out. You can pull the engine out by the blower (two holes in top of blower) by either making a plate to bolt on or bolting heavy chains to it.
Read the manual real well for putting the front timing chain cover back on and follow the sealant application instructions, as it is easy to not put enough sealant or to much in the wrong places
Read the manual real well for putting the front timing chain cover back on and follow the sealant application instructions, as it is easy to not put enough sealant or to much in the wrong places
Lifting from the blower will hold the weight of the engine and tranny? The car sits now on jackstands about 20 inches of the ground, this should be enough? You wouldn't happen to have these manuals on hand? I'd love to do some nightime reading on those im going to be needing!
10-21-2014, 07:24 PM
#16
Senior Member
Thread Starter
11-23-2014, 05:17 PM
#17
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Update!
So its been couple of pretty busy weeks but past friday finaly got things going forward again
Got the engine out and now its ready to get dissembled. Noticed that there seems to be black gasket material on both heads all the way! Seems like they had them also glued from the factory?! Found out that both of the motor mounts were completly shot.. I had a bad feeling about those :P
Also looking into the SC there was small amount of oil in there, anyone that can confirm this is normal or not?
Thanks
Got the engine out and now its ready to get dissembled. Noticed that there seems to be black gasket material on both heads all the way! Seems like they had them also glued from the factory?! Found out that both of the motor mounts were completly shot.. I had a bad feeling about those :P
Also looking into the SC there was small amount of oil in there, anyone that can confirm this is normal or not?
Thanks
11-25-2014, 05:45 AM
#22
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Went to the dealer yesterday and got pretty much all the stuff im going to need, or atleast hope so heres the list:
Rear main seal
Oil seal rings
Front main seal
Cam bridge bolts
Crank pulley bolt
Flex plate bolts
Camshaft gear bolts
Water pump gasket
Pressure relief valve
Valve seals
Timing chain guide rails
Head bolts
Head gaskets
Torque converter to flexplate bolts oz half of them were bent
Oilpump chain
All this for just 850EUR, gotta love Finish taxes and prices here at our dealer
These I allredy had:
Oilpump tensioner spring
Oilpump chain guide
Surge tank seals
Under SC to block seals
All little rubber hoses and plastic lines
Still to get(atleast) plug wires, tranny and engine mounts.
I figured the oil in there was from breathing so thats good to hear!
The SC oil was changed in april so its going to be a good flush now!
BTW I didnt get the sealant just yet. I read somewhere here and in fact it says right on the tube that its supposed to be used 1 year of production date. Dealer had tubes made in 10/2002!!! Wtf..
12 year old tubes, and even if it was 2/2010 (witch i doubt coz its the european way to mark date month first) its way over. If it says on the damn tube to use it in 12mon then im not going to use 12 year old stuff, probably stuck in the tube for good.
heres the list:Rear main seal
Oil seal rings
Front main seal
Cam bridge bolts
Crank pulley bolt
Flex plate bolts
Camshaft gear bolts
Water pump gasket
Pressure relief valve
Valve seals
Timing chain guide rails
Head bolts
Head gaskets
Torque converter to flexplate bolts oz half of them were bent
Oilpump chain
All this for just 850EUR, gotta love Finish taxes and prices here at our dealer
These I allredy had:
Oilpump tensioner spring
Oilpump chain guide
Surge tank seals
Under SC to block seals
All little rubber hoses and plastic lines
Still to get(atleast) plug wires, tranny and engine mounts.
I figured the oil in there was from breathing so thats good to hear!
The SC oil was changed in april so its going to be a good flush now!
BTW I didnt get the sealant just yet. I read somewhere here and in fact it says right on the tube that its supposed to be used 1 year of production date. Dealer had tubes made in 10/2002!!! Wtf..
12 year old tubes, and even if it was 2/2010 (witch i doubt coz its the european way to mark date month first) its way over. If it says on the damn tube to use it in 12mon then im not going to use 12 year old stuff, probably stuck in the tube for good.
Last edited by Elhonaz; 11-25-2014 at 05:47 AM.
11-25-2014, 06:07 AM
#23
MBWorld Fanatic!
Go to a motorcycle shop for sealer. Ask what they use for two-stroke center cases. (Much more demanding environment, and has to be removable) I use Yamabond4 or 3bond silicone (very similar) even in fuel systems. Don't trust the junk at auto parts stores. Step up to the pay window and do it right. Some solvent for cleaning is important too.
11-25-2014, 07:28 AM
#24
Just a note- what y'all are calling the "pressure relief valve" for the oil pump is just a check valve. It's used when the oil filter is mounted up high to prevent drainback when you shut the engine off, so that your bearings aren't starved for a few seconds everytime you start up. The oil pump's check valve is interal and the small line on the side is it's discharge.
11-25-2014, 07:35 AM
#25
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Just a note- what y'all are calling the "pressure relief valve" for the oil pump is just a check valve. It's used when the oil filter is mounted up high to prevent drainback when you shut the engine off, so that your bearings aren't starved for a few seconds everytime you start up. The oil pump's check valve is interal and the small line on the side is it's discharge.
Good to know! Any thoughts on the sealant?
