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I used "right stuff" sealant on mine like I've used hundreds of times before and it leaked. I used the grey sealant from Ford they use on the Super Duty Diesels to fix it and now it's nice and dry. I picked this over the MB stuff also because it's grey like the block
Use proper torque values on the oil pan and front cover parts in particular. A slight overtorque will squeeze out too much sealant and you'll have a leak.
Just a note- what y'all are calling the "pressure relief valve" for the oil pump is just a check valve. It's used when the oil filter is mounted up high to prevent drainback when you shut the engine off, so that your bearings aren't starved for a few seconds everytime you start up. The oil pump's check valve is interal and the small line on the side is it's discharge.
I think im going with the MB stuff for the sealing, the colour doesnt bother me and its easily accessible and also 100% right stuff to go there Then its just up to me f ing up if it leaks Thanks for the suggestions though!
What do you guys think about the sealing of the entire head gasket, as it seems to be on this one? Seems little odd to me
Update, not much but all is going good so far(knock on the wood! )
Got the heads off and taking them to get serviced this. I need a crank pulley tool to get the front cover off and then the oil pans. Im hoping that the dealer will borrow it for me.
Whats the best way to clean the cylinder walls and pistons now? Im assuming brake cleaner and compressed air to make sure theres no debris on the piston rings next time i turn the engine? After cleaning im going to lube them with oil. How about those little vertical "sratches" on the clylinder walls? Those seem like anything i should be worried? Theres one thats maybe 1 inch long but there sure arent many of those little ones eighter
14 E63, 05 E55, 03 Evo 8, 08 F250, 06 R6R, 92 Talon TSI, and instability
Originally Posted by Sir-Boost-a-Lot
I used "right stuff" sealant on mine like I've used hundreds of times before and it leaked. I used the grey sealant from Ford they use on the Super Duty Diesels to fix it and now it's nice and dry. I picked this over the MB stuff also because it's grey like the block
Use proper torque values on the oil pan and front cover parts in particular. A slight overtorque will squeeze out too much sealant and you'll have a leak.
Any reason I couldn't use Hondabond if I wanted to?
You can wipe the cylinder walls with engine oil on a rag and rotate the crank. As each piston comes to the top and starts to drop it will leave particles in the oil that it scraped on the way up. Wipe/clean each cylinder with fresh oil each rotation.
If there's a lot of contaminants you can blow around the piston ringland area with compressed air as each pistons at the top, but be careful and thorough. Tape off the other cylinders one at a time if you do this, as the crap you dislodge from one cylinder will make its way to the others.
You can wipe the cylinder walls with engine oil on a rag and rotate the crank. As each piston comes to the top and starts to drop it will leave particles in the oil that it scraped on the way up. Wipe/clean each cylinder with fresh oil each rotation.
If there's a lot of contaminants you can blow around the piston ringland area with compressed air as each pistons at the top, but be careful and thorough. Tape off the other cylinders one at a time if you do this, as the crap you dislodge from one cylinder will make its way to the others.
Alusil (which is the block material and therefore the bore surface) is extremely sensitive to scratching. It is NOT nikasil.
It wears a long time, but not with foreign particles.
I would research re ringing it. Research Alusil Honing.
I was planing/hoping to basicly not have to touch the block at all , all this honing stuff is completly unfimiliar to me. How necessary you think re ringing would be or is it something that needs attention. In terms of the history on these, not just for the sake of it. Did you find the pics of the walls alarming? Im probably going to do some researching on the subject and who here could do the honing just in case..
Got the oil pans and front cover off. Crank bolt was inthere pretty tight, we bent the dealer tool when holding it on with and extension so I probably just bought the damn thing
Sure enough we found the oil pump chain had been slapping on the cover for a while.. tensioner spring was ridiculously loose and the chain had been "all over the place".
Its been a crazy long time but things are going forward. On saturday got the engine pretty much back together and all is good. The sealant was a PITA to apply with out a sqeeze gun from the damn tube from MB, and especially on the timing cover. That was the only thing I was stressed about but its all good now
In the next weeks will be putting it back together, I'd love to see her running in a month or so (knock on the wood!!)
prep
all in place
Glue time!
"seems to be spinning freely, even the marks line up!
Great thread! And its always the same with the oil pump chain... Mine is ticking like hell too.
Any chance to replace it without taking the front cover apart.
What sealant is used these days? The older M119/M104 engines used anaerobic flange sealant (red/orange kind of stuff) for the front/top covers, that only hardens in absence of oxygen - i love that stuff as its also much easier to "wipe away" than the silicone based RTV gunk.
Great thread! And its always the same with the oil pump chain... Mine is ticking like hell too.
Any chance to replace it without taking the front cover apart.
What sealant is used these days? The older M119/M104 engines used anaerobic flange sealant (red/orange kind of stuff) for the front/top covers, that only hardens in absence of oxygen - i love that stuff as its also much easier to "wipe away" than the silicone based RTV gunk.
Thanks!
Theres no way to change it without taking timing cover of. The sealant is " A003 989 98 20 10", black RTV and in WIS the instructions it states that it is Loctite 5970.
So today we got to start the car. Engine has been sitting in its place for a week now but today we filled everything up. All parts found their place and all is working well. Engine runs smooth as butter now, no unwanted noises Only thing left is to put bumper and hood back on and then take her for a ride Ps. Is the tranny oil capacity 8.7 L ? Thats what I found searching around.
Its been a while now after we got the car together. Everything is ok and no more that terrible rattle noise on idle So happy with the car now. Just ordered plug wires just for the sake of it, and going to do the fuel filter also asap. The go fast mods are still on hold.. and probably will be for the entire season :/ Willsee about those...
Im doing this same job, I already got both the heads out and about to pull the rest of the block to send out to get machined and polished, this is after I replaced the oil pump and O rings from the oil pan, it turns out my oil pressure was still low due to either an oil valve in the head or the block, still not 100% sure but this forum is helping me out with finding some of the extra parts and gaskets and o rings I need as its hard to find them all, great job!
11-25-2014 | 07:39 AM
Thanks for the suggestions though! 
(knock on the wood!!)
Only thing left is to put bumper and hood back on and then take her for a ride
