NewShockerGuy

Starving Artist:
I think that would actually be bad to do because it's not giving the newly sprayed paint anything to really stick to. One has to prep it/scuff it at least. I plan on using aircraft stripper to completely get all the old crap/paint/clear coat off. Then see where it stands on if it needs media blasting.


kenneyd:
Make sure to post an update with pictures. Love to see how it turned out for you and also products used/your method please.


So it looks like I am probably going to use the VHT primer, VHT burnt copper but instead of their single stage clear coat that I keep reading will eventually yellow and not hold up to any type of chemicals when cleaning the wheels or things like that. I am going to go with a 2k clear coat that has hardener in it. I found a thread on a lexus forum that they swear on and reading reviews on this clear coat seems excellent:
Lexus thread:
http://www.clublexus.com/forums/is-f...alipers-3.html


Actual Clear coat:
USC Spray Max 2k High Gloss Clearcoat

https://www.amazon.com/Spraymax%C2%A...iglink20326-20

-Nigel

kenneyd

I did mine last night. IMO, it came out awesome.
I did my 355 calipers a few months back. I took them off the car and totally stripped them (physically, not chemically) huge pain. I maybe the mistake of using a wire brush on a drill. it gouged the metal and i had to sand the gouges out. but they came out great.

I was going to do the same here, but opted leaving them on the car. I used a 3m rubber bristle stripper and it work 10x better then the wire, and never hurt the metal. Sanded with 220, then 400. cleaned, taped and painted.
The original paint in the front was bubbled from the dealer spilled brake fluid, but the rears were fine. I simply scuffed the rears with 220/400.

I found the VHT engine paint in burnt copper requires very light coats. I maybe did 5-6 coats of copper, which was 1 can plus one more coat from the 2nd can.

Waited 45 mins and applied decals and then did 3 coats clear ( 1 full can)

I found it very easy to get a great finish with no runs or orange peel.
As for saving time? It was a wash since i have to cover everything in the shop with plastic. and tape off the wheel wells

TheTherapist

Dejavu - reminds me heaps from when I did mine. I went the metal brush (PITA) route followed by a sander on as many flat parts as I could get to, then hand sanding the fiddly bits in-between. And like you I also got a little heavy handed with the sander causing some gouges which required extra work to smooth. I did go an extra step moving to 1200 from the initial rub back with 400 and could definitely see the benefit in the finished result but agree 400 is probably sufficient. Depends on how pedantic the owner is.

My heavy handedness extended to the spraying and my 3 coats were on the borderline of being too heavy. In fact a couple were, which meant drying/rubbing back/respraying and the subsequent delays. I do believe that the heavier coats (if carefully applied at correct temp) can contribute towards a more luxurious, candy coated type finish, almost like they have been dipped, although the 1200 rub would have also contributed towards this -or maybe I'm kidding myself and "beauty is in the eye of the beerholder..." Your 5 light coats is the more sensible and safest solution.

One thing I did do was completely remove the calipers from the vehicle, I can imagine how much more difficult it would be with them still in place. And exponentially more difficult the older and less flexible one is...

But in the end, apart from the $ saved, isn't it so much more satisfying to display the results of your own efforts?

NewShockerGuy

YES x100!!! Looks AWESOME! wow! So much better than silver! Now I am 1000% doing this.

I am doing a conversion on our 350 to the oem brembo bbk so painting them off the car is no problem since I already have them completely disassembled via the pistons/seals/orings. I will be able to 100% get them clean/old paint off. So you did not spray any primer before the vht basecoat? Also which clear coat did you go with specifically?

Your final outcome looks is awesome. I love it. It POPS on silver and we have the same color so I'm super excited!

I noticed in your one picture it looks very cloudy? Is that from the clear coat? That would be the only thing that would worry me is seeing that and then wondering if the entire thing got screwed up..

If you wouldn't mind could you run down as far as time frame how you applied everything. IE: How much time between the base coats of paint, then how much time passed between each coat of clear coat..etc.

Thanks!

-Nigel

kenneyd

No primer. The clear went on a bit cloudy, actually helped you tell how much you put down and if you got it on evenly, Dried crystal clear.


Im not saying a did it right but (temperature 65):
- i sprayed the first coat on, slightly more then misting it.
-30 mints later sprayed 2nd coat (light)
-ate dinner, 30 mins later i sprayed 3rd coat (light), then read the directions lol. The directions says 10 mins between coats, and all coats within an hour... oopps.
-10 mins later 4th coat (light) debated being fininshed with the base, looked great
-15 mins later used 2nd can to do 5th coat (medium)
-20 min later did stickers and first coat clear (medium)
-15 mins later did 2nd clear (medium)
15 mins later did 3rd coat clear, (medium to heavy, one tiny run)


Like i said before about the light coats, i really dont think i could have done anything more than a light coat with the color, its seemed really thin. Even with a light spray you could see it move. The clear was much thicker and could be layed on fairly heavy. 3 coats and the can was empty. Regardless, even with the light coats, it went on glossy and smooth.

NewShockerGuy

kenneyd,

Welp I'm sold! That looks so good! Thank you for the explanation of things. Do you by chance have a link to your 3m rubber bristle stripper that you used? I've honestly never heard of that before and would think a rubber bristle stripper wouldn't actually remove anything because it's rubber?

I know it's too early but how do you think durability will be via the clearcoat? IE: Does it seems like it's good protection? I'm still on the fence of either using VHT clear or the 2k clear. I like that the 2k has the hardener and is urethane but I'm still having trouble find out if one bakes the enamel or not.. clearly you didn't bake anything because they are still on the car but your results look excellent which makes me think that perhaps one does not have to bake the parts...hmmm

Thanks again,
-Nigel

kenneyd

I don't think anything out of a can well be as good as a 2 part paint (paint plus a hardener), however it its perfect for my needs and time line.

here is a link to the 3m thing. They come in different sizes and strengths I believe. I was very impressed how fast it worked and how it left the metal. 3M 3M-18730 Roloc Bristle Disc Grade - 50, Size - 2 - 2 Pack https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01E612L3M/ref=cm_sw_r_apa_LVMFybNG75ZJV

Blade Canyon

Hey, we never got a pic of the car with the calipers on it!